This article will detail white fly growth cycle, explain why they are such a hard pest to control and then list treatment options which work.

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White flies are small winged insects which look more like moths than flies. They have a powdery wax which both protects them and is key to identification. They are active in all parts of the world and will thrive year round in the south but go dormant during the winter in northern states. Though white flies can be a tough and persistent pest, the right combination of materials combined with the right timing of treatment can solve any infestation.

White flies have two main species which are active in the United States. The Citrus and the Greenhouse are most commonly found but others exist. Citrus white flies are found on just about any plant – not just fruit. Citrus white flies are hardy and will be active year round.



Greenhouse white flies are easier to control and will go dormant as winter sets in around the country. Greenhouse white flies are more prevalent in greenhouses though plants which move to homes and gardens carrying active populations will surely enable them to still live. Both species develop from eggs and grow through a series of instars. The last instar is the pupa stage during which young change to adults.

Adult white flies will lay eggs in less than a week once they emerge. Eggs are very small; almost invisible. Eggs will be laid on the underside of leaves, in hard to see locations, in generally well protected parts of the plant.

Once the young emerge, they will immediately begin to feed. Though their development can occur in less than a month, a much longer development time frame is not uncommon. Cycles can take as long as a year if conditions are not so favorable. However, regardless of how long it takes them to develop, damage will certainly be happening to any host plant on which they reside.



White flies are a problem because they have piercing mouth parts which allow them to such plant sap. This behavior is what they do to feed and host plants are prone to many problems during such feeding. There are many problems that feeding white flies cause including:

  1. Leaf damage. Feeding white flies will cause leaves to turn up and brown, disabling them to perform their responsibilities. Damaged leaves look bad and promote decay fungus and bacteria to form.
  2. Sap drainage. White flies have an insatiable hunger for plant sap and will suck as much of it as they can from the host plant. Young host plants will not be able to meet these demands and don’t stand much of a chance to survive; adult plants which loose vital sap are more prone to disease, heat stress and less likely to rebound from any environmental shock.
  3. White flies excrete honeydew which lures other nuisance insects onto the host plant. These secondary insects will feed off the honeydew and effectively farm it for it’s nutritional value but invariably they will become established on the property or in nearby structures. This secondary insect infestation is usually some type of ant, wasp or beetle. Regardless, feeding white flies allow such populations to thrive. Furthermore, the honeydew goes bad and grows a mold known as Black Sooty. This mold damages host plants preventing them from processing food properly further contributing to the host plants demise.
  4. White flies are unsightly when they populate any plant and if prized landscaping gets infested it really looks bad. Active white flies will buzz around host plants throughout the day and are very noticeable. They are annoying when active on fruit or flower producing stock and can easily be brought into the home with anything harvested off infested plants.
  5. Lastly, white flies are extremely prolific. Once they get established on any plant around the home or garden they will readily migrate and look to infest any other nearby vegetation. White flies don’t discriminate; they will move onto any plant that has healthy and abundant sap. It is not uncommon to have local populations thrive on some field of weeds only to start migrating into someone’s prized roses.


There is not a lot you can do to stop white flies from finding any of your healthy roses, privets or other shrubs on which they like to feed. If you are located in a region which harbors white flies, be prepared to have some type of local infestation on existing plant stock which will need some attention.



White Fly TrapsHowever, before you do, it is a great idea to set out some WHITE FLY TRAPS. These are bright yellow glue traps which white flies will readily be drawn as they leave local colonies seeking new host plants. These traps will serve you by catching these foraging reproductives before they are able to settle down and start feeding and egg laying. Furthermore, these traps can serve as an alarm alerting you to activity which may have begun to establish itself.

White Fly TrapsWhite Fly Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/glue/aphidwhitefly-trap-4-pk


It is recommended that one be placed on any plant you wish to protect. Inspect them no less than once a week and if activity is found, be sure to start inspecting for any population which may be started. These traps can last up to two months unless they either fill up or the glue gets dried.

If you already have white flies active in your garden or house plants, there are several materials which can be used to keep them in check. Keep in mind that white flies are persistent. They reproduce quickly, like to hide on parts of the plant which makes the hard to reach when spraying and have certain stages which are not susceptible to chemical. For this reason it is important to choose the chemical of treatment carefully. Here are your options along with guidelines to get the most out of any spraying program you decide to employ.



Insecticidal SoapAn organic material that can be sprayed for white flies is INSECTICIDAL SOAP. This material works several ways. First, it prevents adults from flying so they are not able to migrate to neighboring plants. Secondly, it stops the colonies from laying more eggs. Thirdly, it will suffocate some members of the colony immediately decreasing activity following treatments. Since it’s so safe, you can spray any plant – including fruits and vegetables – without any hazard to people or pets that may be eating the harvest. Soap is certified for organic gardening so it’s an excellent choice for organic growers.

Insecticidal SoapSoap: Insect Soap: http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/insecticidal-soap




3 IN 1 FungicideMulti-Purpose Insect KillerWe also have some slightly stronger organic formulations which will last longer meaning you won’t have to spray quite as frequently. Since white flies can be both persistent and stubborn, MULTI PURPOSE INSECT KILLER would be the next option if the Insecticidal Soap isn’t working well enough. 3 IN 1 CONCENTRATE is another great organic option which uses three actives so you get a true insecticide, miticide and fungicide “all in one”. Remember, when using any of the organic options it’s important to treat enough to keep the target pests under control. This could be as frequent as twice a week but in general, once every 10-14 days will do the job.

Multi-Purpose Insect KillerOrganic Insect Killer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

3 IN 1 Fungicide3 in 1 Spray: http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/3-in-1-fungicide-miticide-insecticide





Dustin MizerCrusaderDeltamethrin DustPermethrin DustIf these organic sprays have not proven effective you may want to try a dust formulation. This is a dry material which does a good job floating around the plant and covering key nest locations. Since white flies have a knack of avoiding direct applications, it is critical that you get all surfaces of the plant. Dusts like PERMETHRIN DUST or DELTAMETHRIN DUST are good choices and do a good job on white flies. These are two products which are in a form much like baby powder. They are applied with either a HAND DUSTER or a DUSTIN MIZER.


Permethrin DustPermethrin Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/viper-perm-dust-4-lb

Deltamethrin DustDelta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

CrusaderHand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

Dustin MizerDustin Mizer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/dustin-mizerdeflector



If you have small plants to treat, the small Hand Duster will work fine. However, the Dustin Mizer enables the applicator to reach a lot of plants quickly. It’s optional Deflector is really handy since it will allow you to direct the dust in an upwards direction. This insures you get good coverage on the bottom sides of leaves without having to break your back bending over. Use the Permethrin for treating any garden type plant which is edible or will produce fruits or vegetables. Use the Deltamethrin Dust, which is slightly longer lasting, on any non-edible. Both will work on other insects as well and neither will hurt the plant.

Dusts are the safest material to use on plants overall, will last about the longest and are easy to apply with the right tool. The only drawback is that you will see some white residue where you have treated. However, many people like being able to see because it lets them know just where the dust has settled so that they can be sure to get the complete plant treated.



Bifen ITPermethrin 10The strongest option available is the use of some concentrated insecticide. There are many available for white flies but only a few work well. Two products which still are very active are PERMETHRIN and BIFEN. Permethrin is odorless and can be sprayed on any type of plant including fruits and vegetables. Bifen is the latest compound available and is very hot – only a little bit is needed, it won’t injure treated plants and it lasts a long time. These products will quickly kill off adults and several stages of developing larva.

Permethrin 10Permethrin 10:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/permethrin-10

Bifen ITBifen IT:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen


Spreader StickerHowever, there are several problems if you rely on them alone. First, as discussed earlier, white flies like to hide on plant structures making it very hard to get good coverage when treating. For this reason, it is imperative that you spray from every angle which is hard to do but a necessary evil. To help allow the chemical better reach all parts of the plant, add some SPREADER STICKER to the tank mix. This product essentially lets the spray “spread” so that applications are able to cover more of plant surface area. This extra coverage could be the difference between success and failure when spraying.

Spreader StickerSpreader Sticker: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/additive/spreader-sticker


Nylar IGRAnother product you should consider adding to the tank mix is some NYLAR. This is one of the latest growth hormones which work on insects by interrupting their growth and development. For white flies, Nylar will stall the cycle so the colony is not able to create reproducing adults. If you have had a nagging, persistent problem with this pest in one or several plants, consider a tank mix with Bifen, Spreader Sticker and Nylar. This combination will provide control – period. The Bifen will kill off adults and live young. The Spreader Sticker will help get the best coverage possible insuring all of the colony is sprayed and the Nylar will prevent any new young that hatch from being able to become mature adults.

Nylar IGRNylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar


On a side note, the author had a Privet with a persistent problem that could not be solved with any of the products alone. However, adding the Nylar turned out to be the turning point. Only one more treatment was needed the season the Nylar was applied and since that time one application every spring has served to keep the Privet white fly free.

Pump SprayerOne last thought about using the liquids: be sure to do the application with a good sprayer. There are many “garden” type sprayers available but none the author has seen are able to deliver the spray from the nozzle with the right pattern needed to get maximum coverage. We have taken extra time to piece together several sprayers which will do the best job possible which means your efforts won’t be wasted. We have several SPRAYERS to choose from and the size you get should depend on how big of an area you need to treat. Most of these are used for pest control in the homes requiring fine mist like sprays which are actually perfect for white fly applications. If you are going to go through all the time to get the right products to do the job yourself, make sure you have the right tools to make the application. The sprayers we list for this job will all work great.

Pump SprayerPump Sprayer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/good/pump-sprayers




Another great tool for the management of white flies is the use of systemics. These are products that are applied to the ground soil in which trees and plants are growing that you want to protect. Once applied, the material is then absorbed up through the root system of the plants and distributed throughout it’s leaves and stems. Once the active is distributed throughout the plant, insects like white flies won’t be able to feed on the treated plant.

Dominion 2LThis way of delivering the active ingredient is highly effective and long lasting so you don’t have to spray over and over. DOMINION 2L  can be used for any tree or shrub that won’t yield vegetables or fruit and with one application lasting a whole season, it’s no doubt a super smart way to prevent white flies from ever starting.

Dominion 2LDominion 2L:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/dominion-2l-termiticide-insecticide


Dominion Fruit Tree InsecticideFor the vegetable garden, DOMINION FRUIT AND VEGETABLE is a slightly less concentrated version that’s labeled for most any garden vegetable, berry, nut, etc.

Dominion Fruit Tree InsecticideDominion Fruit Vegetable:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/dominion-fruit-tree-insecticide-systemic


The one problem with systemics is that it can take awhile for the active to be fully absorbed and distributed throughout the treated plant or tree so you won’t get quick results like you will when spraying. For this reason, systemics are best used in the early spring just before your plants take off growing. And once in place and absorbed, long term control without spraying can be achieved.

Now if you are reading this and already have a white fly problem, Dominion should still be employed. In fact, you can even spray it on the plant in place of the Bifen so the currently active white flies will be controlled during the time it takes for the soil injected Dominion to make it’s way throughout the plant. The point is don’t rely on the soil treatment alone if you have an active infestation. Still treat the soil but spray as well to avoid excessive damage during the time it takes for the Dominion to work it’s way into the plant.



PT-1300 Orthene FoggerIf you have a greenhouse or small confined area which has had white fly activity, you might consider the use of some ORTHENE FOGGERS. Though this product does smell bad, it works great on white flies. Each fogger will treat up to 3000 sq/ft and won’t hurt the plants. Orthene is very active on white flies and will serve as a contact kill, a residual kill to get young as they emerge and because it’s an aerosol, there will be no where for the white flies to hide. The aerosol will naturally find it’s way into all parts of the plant which is a big help when having to treat small delicate plants that afford a lot of hidden areas for insects to hide.

PT-1300 Orthene FoggerOrthene Fogger: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-1300-orthene-tr-6-oz


Remember, this product shouldn’t be used in living areas since it does have an odor. So if you’re adverse to using something this strong, we do have a couple of alternative options that work well. These are especially true for small areas.

Houseplant Insect KillerThe simplest option that really only works for small greenhouses that are a couple of hundred square feet or less is the ORGANIC HOUSEPLANT INSECT KILLER. It’s approved for organic gardening so it’s very safe to use yet it works on many pests including white flies. Pyrethrin is the main active ingredient, which is derived from plants, which means treatments won’t last long. In fact they’re generally gone in a few hours. So expect to spray 1-2 a day when treating a current problem; at least once a day for preventive maintenance. But you can use it as you wish with no worry about hurting the plants which is a big plus.

Houseplant Insect KillerHouse Plant Insect Killer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/aerosol/houseplant-insect-killer-10-oz


Aerosol DispenserPurge IIIThe second option is to install a small METERED AEROSOL MACHINE. Keep it set to release a 1 second blast of pyrethrin from a can of PURGE III and you can control most any pest in small areas with this setup. Cans will last a month and because you’re using a machine to make the application, this setup is a big money saver.

Purge IIIPurge: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/purge-iii-6-25-oz

Aerosol DispenserAerosol 2000: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-2000



The thing about white flies is that if you don’t have them, wait a few minutes and you will! Any gardener or grower who likes plants which white flies like are bound to meet their nemesis at one time or another. Though there are some regions which are more likely to have white flies active than others, any good healthy plant is a prime target and this seems to be the rule now more than ever. Some speculate it’s because we live in a world where everything is from somewhere else. This rapid transporting, relocating and delivery system we have in place are all adding to the dispersion and high levels of activity we see regarding many pests around the world.

White flies are no different. Regions which have a lot of activity are more likely to be growing plants which will be harvested and relocated to some where north where it could be snowing. Plants moved between these two regions can be delivered in warm protected containers providing protection from the elements which not only protects the plants but the white flies as well. There is no doubt that the massive increase of trade beyond conventional borders and traditional time lines are enabling certain pests to appear when they are least likely to be around. And with these surprise appearances the foothold they get into our landscape and homes is ever increasing.



To protect your plants from having a white fly breakout, there are some rules to follow.

  1. If you are in a region with a lot of local activity, don’t think you will be overlooked. Inspect for white fly activity throughout the growing season and use some traps to help spot any colonizing on your plants.
  2. Start treatments as soon as you identify some activity and don’t rely on one or two sprayings to solve the problem. Once you think you have it solved be sure to check for new life every week.
  3. For any stubborn infestation you may have use the growth regulator to knock them out once and for all without having to spray over and over.
  4. Remember that removing infested plants will generally only do just that; remove a plant which had white fly activity.
  5. All your other plants are just as likely to one day soon get them if you don’t start some preventive maintenance.

White flies can be a persistent pest which seems to always be around and never go away. Use some traps to monitor local activity and once you have them, be persistent and precise with your applications. Remember, treating early is always best as it will save time, money and effort. Once you have the outbreak under control, be sure to watch for more and be particularly careful the following year since this is when most growers seem to forget and before they know what’s happened, their favorite rose bush is infested again.


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Comments on WHITE FLY CONTROL Leave a Comment

January 19, 2012

Dan Hogberg @ 10:25 am #


HELP!!! I live in Key West Florida. Approximately one year ago (January of 2011), white flys began showing up on my property, and on most properties in Key West. The first problem they presented was with my pool. They would land and die on the surface of the pool and it was unsightly. As the year progressed, they became thicker and I noticed some of the plants and trees in my yard beginning to feel the effects. Then it was like they just went out of control. By late summer they were so bad I really began to worry. By December of 2011, my pool was unusable. They clogged my pool filter so badly that I had to take it apart and completely clean it out, only to have it clog again 3 weeks later. Small trees in my yard became covered with sooty mold and dropped all their leaves and died. My Key Lime tree lost over half its leaves and stopped producing fruit. The beautiful palms hanging over my pool turned brown and curled up. They killed all of my winter tomato plants and even destroyed the impatiens which normally thrive all winter. There is sooty black mold everywhere. These little white pests are destroying my entire landscape, and I mean total destruction.

They seem to have a particular fondness for Gumbo Limbo trees. There is a huge (50 foot tall 60 foot wide) Gumbo Limbo in the lot right behind my house and it is totally infested. In the late afternoon you can see a huge white cloud of white flies hovering all around the tree. There are thousands of Gumbo Limbos all over Key West with the same problem…….and these are huge old trees probably more than 100 years old.

This infestation is now completely out of control and my property is in shambles. There has to be a solution. Somebody needs to do something fast.

November 29, 2012

Margie Cooper @ 2:29 pm #


@Tech Support:
Noted the letter from Key Wester. I am at Mile Marker 19 on Sugarloaf and it is ruining my car. Is there anything special I can use to clean this thick mold off without ruining car paint? Thank you. Margie

January 23, 2012

Ed @ 1:29 pm #


Will Talstar work for both whitefly and thrips? Thanks Ed

January 25, 2012

steve @ 7:45 pm #


I have white flies infesting many plants in my yard. Specifically, several palm trees. The problem is – I have a koi pond in the middle of the infestation. I can’t be spraying poison over the fish. A brilliant idea would be appreciated. Thanks.

February 7, 2012

Bob @ 11:46 am #


Re: Use of Neem in a greenhouse setting. Do you recommend it and if so, are there any clues to making the best use of it? We live in Northern New Jersey and have a relatively severe problem with white fly. Thank you.

March 3, 2012

Tom @ 12:03 am #


For my white fly problem, I took your advice and purchased the following to mix together for spraying: Permethrin, Spreader Sticker, and Nylar. I will be treating mostly Plumeria plants, one of which is coming into bloom. Will any of these products have any adverse affects on the emerging buds? Should I avoid direct contact of the spray with the inflorescence? Thanks, Tom

March 8, 2012

Tracy @ 10:26 am #


We have white fungus under our mulch which is killing our plants and shrubs. We had a landscaper say that it is white fly and the property needs to be treated with Permethrin. I don’t see any bugs at all. Does his answer of white fly seem correct to you, and should we pay the money to have him treat the property?

March 22, 2012

Lisa @ 2:06 pm #


I just discovered white flies on some Gardenias in my flower bed. I have noticed there is already Black Sooty on most of the leaves. How long does it take the white fly to irreversibly damage the plant? Should I go ahead and spray my entire flower bed? Also, I read online that you have to manually remove the Black Sooty from each leaf. Is this correct? Thanks!

April 2, 2012

Paul G @ 11:55 pm #


I was told by several different people growing plants that these white flies were a natural part of the garden and now they are so over run. I have basil, rosemary, sage, lemon balm and oregano. Which would you suggest for my small plants? I was thinking the 3 in 1 or the houseplant insect kit. Thanks for your time!

April 3, 2012
April 6, 2012

Marailyn Kaufmann @ 7:03 pm #


I have little white eggs on the stems of my grape vines. Are these white fly eggs or aphids or are they the same? What can I do to get rid of them?

April 7, 2012
April 9, 2012

James Buonassi @ 11:26 am #


The lady next door planted White Fly infested Ficus hedges bordering her property. This infestation apparently has infected my Alamanda bush, Staghorn Fern, and most dramatically, my large Avocado tree. The tell tail signs of Black Sooty on all aforementioned and the hatchery system on the under side of the Avacado leaves.
I’ve read your tech support on most other questions and I assume I will have to treat the ground on everything but my Staghorn Fern (the Alamanda bush and Staghorn are directly under my Avocado tree). Am I correct? The biggest concern is this. How often must you treat the ground to control the problem? How long after treating the ground with insecticide must you wait before being able to eat the Avocados again? Is there any other way to treat such a large area of fruit producing trees?

May 28, 2012

Michelle @ 9:09 pm #


I live in Houston, TX and have 3 citrus trees (not sure if they are lime or lemon). They are all three infested with white flies. I have applied 3 applications of Neem oil and am not sure I have made a dent in the infestation. Is the Bifen, spreader sticker and Nylar combination safe to use on citrus? Do you have a better suggestion?

June 2, 2012

Eyal @ 3:36 pm #


I just bought a house plantation in Florida…. And learned of the existence of white fly. It is everywhere in the yard… Palm trees, ficus, and more….

Everyone tells me that the only way to treat it is to bring a professional which based on the quotes I got runs from $500 to over $1,000. This does not make sense and sounds like a great sales pitch to me since no one warrants the results to me. Please let me know if you have a recommendation.

June 23, 2012

Irma Reyes @ 8:16 pm #


Hi, I live in Boca Raton, Fl. My Ficus are getting naked without leaves. Is it to late to start a treatment? If not, will they come back as they used to be? What treatment can you recommend? My back yard looks so bad!!!! Help!!!

June 24, 2012

Hema @ 11:43 am #


Hello, I have lost 2 coconut palms and a third one is sick. The landscaper I have been using had initially called it a fungal disease and removed the two palm trees. He said that the treatment is costly and in the end, I will have to cut down the trees. Now my third and the last coconut palm is sick and, of course, he wants to remove it. I got another opinion and this person showed me that I have an infestation of whiteflies in my yard. He said the trees need to be drenched and the entire yard needs to be sprayed as well. He also states that the yard needs to be sprayed every three months for indefinite time. This is very expensive. Would you PLEASE give me an idea of the treatment cost per tree for drenching and spraying the yard? In addition, do you recommend that the treatment should be continuous and if so how often? Thank you very much.

June 25, 2012

Roger @ 6:12 am #


I have a whitefly infestation on my tomato plants. They were not there a week ago when I went on vacation but now they are pratically covering the plants. What control do you recommend? Thanks, Roger

August 9, 2012

Jenny J Smith @ 4:07 pm #


I also have whiteflies in my plumerias. I noticed that you can’t ship Nylar to California. Is there anything else I should add to the Permethrin and Bifen to start treating this whiteflies? Thank you.

August 10, 2012
August 27, 2012

Ray Martinez @ 7:22 pm #


Hi, I live in South Florida and I have a Mamey tree and Mango tree in my yard. They are young in that I planted them about 3 months ago. Recently I have noticed leaves being eaten from the Mamey Tree and now the Mango tree is starting to get eaten as well. I found a few fruit flies on the Mango tree and I know our community has a white fly issue across all the Ficus bushes. I plan to consume the Mamey and Mango fruits. What would be a safe way to get rid of or at least control the White Flies without harming humans who eventually will consume the fruit?

Thank you for your help!

January 7, 2013

Stephanie @ 9:37 am #


@Tech Support: I was wondering if the white fly has any affects on mammals because we are breathing this in. It has ruined my car, my roof, the railing to the house, etc.. with the mold that is all over it.

September 19, 2012

kevin @ 3:45 pm #


This year has not been the best for gardening, as I achieved a bumper crop of insect pests as opposed to the veggies I planted. If I didn’t know better, I would swear I planted everything that the insects liked. I am now looking toward next season, and looking at starting out with a systemic product and till it into the soil before I sow anything. I was told the best to get is one product you list which is merit 75wp, and then you also have dominion fruit and veggie. I have heard nothing but good with the merit, but doing research on it, it doesn’t come right out and say it is safe to use for veggies. I did find one listing to use 1/4 teaspoon to gallon of water to spray the soil and to follow with a good soaking. But I want to see a label somewhere that says it is safe. Any ideas to help me out, as I was over run by two spot spider mites, white flies, grubs, grasshoppers, scale, flea Beatles, just to name a few, and some I have no idea what they are. Please advise and reply to email. Thanks for your time with this request.

September 21, 2012

Don Wagner @ 4:39 pm #


I have white flies on my hibiscus and crape myrtles. Help.

October 13, 2012

Adam @ 9:07 am #


I have a white fly problem with indoor veggie plants. It’s not a big problem right now but I am concerned. I have read all the information here and I was going to go with the Vegetables Plus Perm. Does this need to be used with a “spreader”? Also, I am wondering if the insects will become immune to it and should I be rotating sprays weekly? Also, do I need to rinse the leaves off with plain water between applications or is that unnecessary? Do I need to be adjusting the pH of these insecticides? I’m also interested in the Dominion but am not sure if I could use it on potted indoor plants.

My main concern is the insects building immunity to any one product and if I should be rotating products. I am organic so I know this limits my options. If possible, I would only like to spray plants no more than once a week.



October 16, 2012

Elaine Goss @ 6:54 pm #


I’m infested with white flies. It started on my cajun hibiscus and spread from there to tomatoes, cucumber etc. They aren’t on everything. I’ve sprayed with the mixture of Bifen, Permethrin and Spreader Sticker in a 2 gal. sprayer. This seemed to help but they are not completely gone. I planted broccoli last week and they are now on that. Do these flies get into the soil and live? What can I spray on my broccoli and vegetables? Im afraid of using all these insecticides. In an article in our newspaper an Ag. agent said the best to use was a oil based insecticide. Can you give me the names of some oil based insecticide? You look for this stuff and people don’t know what you’re talking about. How often should you spray and what ratio of mix should you use? I want to continue gardening but right now I’m helpless with no sure solution. Thanks for your time and info.

October 31, 2012

Dean @ 8:49 am #


I live in SE Florida…does cold temperatures kill Whitefly? If so, how cold and for how many days does the cold temperature have to be?

November 16, 2012

Jawad Khan @ 9:39 pm #


I am curious as to how long white flies survive without access to leaves and plants. If I spray my plants and move them to another location. How long before they die of starvation in the original location. Thanks.

November 17, 2012
November 24, 2012

Robert Rennak @ 12:26 pm #


I have two huge banyon trees 100ft high and 100ft tall with 15ft dia. trunks.which seem to be infected with white flies. How can I treat such large trees? The trees are too tall to spray with no end to the root system for drenching. Would trunk injection be a possible solution? Thanks- Bob

Robert Rennak @ 1:13 pm #


Thanks for your input. Soil injection sounds best for me. With such large trees with 15ft dia trunks, where do you drench the soil with unknown root system or is soil injection different than drenching?

November 27, 2012

scott @ 1:20 pm #


My 30 year old black olive tree is infested with white fly. Any suggestions on treatment options would be appreciated.

December 8, 2012

Angel Bermudez @ 7:01 pm #


I live in Central Florida. My holly hedges were infested with white flies a few months ago so I sprayed them with some product and I thought I got rid of the problem because the white flies were gone. Recently I noticed that the hollies have shed most of the lower leaves. These leaves are coated on the underside with a white soot and what I believe may be whitefly larvae. Will all the leaves eventually fall off? Will the plants come back to life? What should I treat them with? Should I treat the ground around the plants? Thanks for any help you can provide. Ang.

December 9, 2012
January 19, 2013

Jorge Ramirez @ 12:33 am #


Hi, I have a 12 x 12 garden of tomato plants in the growing phase and I have a infestation of whiteflies. Is true that I can get rid of whiteflies with c02? What you recommend? Thanks.

January 20, 2013

Javier @ 9:30 am #


Hi, I have noticed a lot of whitefly activity on the coconut palm trees I have in the backyard. Even the pool is all covered with these flies. I called a professional company for the treatment and they wanted to charge over $500 for the service. They were going to inject each palm tree as they are really tall. Can you recommend an injection with professional strengh that I can buy to do it myself?

Javier @ 12:03 pm #


Thank you. I just purchased the Dominion 2L from this site as these trees are ornamental. Another question, how many holes do I have to make around the trees and how deep? How many galLons do I use per tree? The palm trees are about 18″ in diameter and 20-22′ tall. @Tech Support:

January 21, 2013

Carol Greer @ 7:08 pm #


Is the citrus fruit safe to eat when your tree has white flies and the mold it causes?

January 22, 2013
February 12, 2013

Marci @ 11:40 am #


We live in South Florida and white flies have recently taken over our neighborhood. We have two large trees, a gumbo limbo and black olive (30+ feet tall) that have been hit particularly hard. We have two dogs that play in the yard and the gumbo limbo is directly beside and over hanging our lanai. We need something that will not harm our dogs and that will not damage our patio area as overspray cannot be avoided.

From what I’ve read it looks like Dominion is the best option for treating the soil but I am unsure what to get to spray the trees. I like the idea of the combination of Bifen, Nylar and Spreader Sticker but the Bifen concerns me to be sprayed into our outdoor living space. Is there a safe and effective option for this area?

February 14, 2013

Champika Perera @ 12:05 am #


We have Euphorbia plants. Now every where they are with white flies. How to control white flies?

February 28, 2013

Burt Zargo @ 10:27 pm #


I have a tortoise that roams our yard and eats the grass there. If I were to treat a 30 ft tall mango tree for white flies with Dominium fruit and vegetable, how long would I need to keep him out of this area that he normally grazes on? I was also thinking of using either the pyrethrin spray or powder on vegetables and banana trees that are also in the grazing area. How long would I need to keep the tortoise out of this area? What would you recommend?
Thank you in advance.

March 1, 2013

Burt @ 8:22 pm #


Thank you for your prompt response. I ordered the Dominion Fruit and Vegetable product today and I have one follow up question. The label states to apply after fruit blossom. My mango tree blossoms twice a year. The fruit is set from the first blossom and it will blossom again in a couple of months. Can I go ahead and apply the product or should I wait until after the second blossom?
Again, thank you!

April 12, 2013

Pat @ 10:38 pm #


I live in Northern California and now finding white flies in my grass when I walk through it or when my dog disturbs the grass. They just fly up and then resettle. How do I get rid of them with out harming my dog?

April 13, 2013
April 15, 2013

Jennifer @ 8:46 am #


I have recently applied systemic treatment to our 30+ year old Florida avocado tree for fear that we would lose it to whitefly as the infestation was so severe. Not sure if we have stopped the infestation but the tree is loaded with bloom. Unfortunately, I did not fully read directions and have now only realized that this treatment should not be applied to fruit trees. I am assuming that we should not eat the avocados this season. Do you think the fruit will be edible again next year or have I ruined this tree?

May 13, 2013

Tyrone Hunter @ 11:12 am #


I have white flies and nats on my indoor Lilly and Corn plant. Help! I work a lot and need a quick easy long term fix. I can mist daily or use dust but want the best for these plants. The dust seems messy for the house. I am leaning toward the Nylar, Bifen, Spreader Sticker and the Systemic to treat soil to grow into the plants.

June 19, 2013

Rosalind @ 2:37 pm #

Hope you can help me. I live in Boynton Beach, Fl.. I have a pool in my back yard with no surrounding plants. My neighbor on the east side has 8 palm trees along the bordering fence that are infested with white flies falling into my pool. I have asked him 3 times to do something about this. I spoke to his landscaper and he said he know about it; but is doing nothing. Is there any recourse for me????

September 23, 2013

Sheena @ 12:31 am #


I sprayed my infected palms today along with my neighbors coconut palm which seems to be the host. I used the recommended cocktail but had some difficulty getting the top fronds and undersides of Arecca palms. How long should I wait before respraying? Did I waste my spray concentrating on the crown of the palms versus each frond?

November 6, 2013

Deanna Darlene Skutchan @ 2:07 pm #

I have battled whiteflies for over 10 years. I seem to be the only one in our area (Delta, Colorado) that has this big of an infestation. I have sprayed, I have had Pest Away come spray and it isn’t knocking them down at all. I need help. They are in my flowers, my vegetable garden, my shrubs, my grass and probably more places that I haven’t mentioned. Do the whiteflies die during our winters and then their eggs hatch in spring and start causing problems or are they always there no matter what the temp? Do I wait now until spring to start using your Bifen, Permethrin and Nylar? These critters are driving me crazy. Can’t even sit out on my deck without them flying around and annoying any guests I have. Any suggestions would be more than welcome.

November 15, 2015

Barbara Anne Seddon @ 10:15 am #

Which of the above named items can be used near my indoor fish pond (75 gallons, 5 good sized fish)??

January 3, 2016

Christine Crighton @ 4:16 pm #

We grow Salanova lettuce, microgreens and oriental greens in about 18,000 sq. ft. of greenhouse space. These foods are sold to Pittsburgh PA restaurants. PLEASE tell us what you recommend for green peach aphid, thrip and whitefly. Some houses are allowed to freeze between crops.
We usually have 45 F. for night temperatures in the winter and I understand beneficials will not live and thrive. The temps do not hurt to pests at all. Thanks.

January 4, 2016

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