- HOW TO CONTROL SPRINGTAILS IN AND AROUND HOME
- BEST SPRINGTAIL TREATMENT VIDEO – INSIDE THE HOME
- BEST SPRINGTAIL TREATMENT VIDEO – OUTSIDE THE HOME
- SPRINGTAIL BIOLOGY
- SPRINGTAIL BIOLOGY
- SPRINGTAIL PROBLEMS
- HOW TO CONTROL SPRINGTAILS
- THE THREE STEPS TO SUCCESSFUL TREATING SPRINGTAIL PROBLEMS
- START OUTSIDE WITH THE BEST LAWN GRANULES
- BEST OUTSIDE SPRAY FOR SPRINGTAILS
- ORGANIC SPRINGTAIL SPRAY
- HOW TO TREAT SPRINGTAILS UNDER CEMENT AND POOL DECKING
- HOW TO TREAT SPRINGTAILS UNDER EXTERIOR SIDING
- SPRINGTAIL SPRAY FOR INSIDE THE HOME
- SPRAY INSIDE THE HOME WITH FS MP and BITHOR
- HOW TO TREAT CABINETS FOR SPRINGTAILS
- HOW TO TREAT A WINDOW FOR SPRINGTAILS
- HOW TO GET RID OF SPRINGTAILS IN YOUR SINK
- TREAT THE YARD AND SEPTIC TANKS FOR SPRINGTAILS
- BEST SPRINGTAIL TRAPS
- SPRINGTAILS IN CRAWL SPACES
- WHAT ABOUT USING A PEST CONTROL SERVICE COMPANY FOR SPRINGTAIL CONTROL?
- HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO GET RID OF SPRINGTAILS?
- CONTACT US
HOW TO CONTROL SPRINGTAILS IN AND AROUND HOME ^
Springtails are small insects which are one of natures most important recyclers. They exist from the north pole to the south pole; from the wet and humid southeastern states of America to the dry arid deserts of Nevada.
Springtails are born from the earth but once a structure (natural or man made) is built above the ground, they’ll migrate up and onto it.
Springtails don’t “think” and they’re not good at deciding where to migrate so they do so indiscriminately, without cause, rhyme or reason. And for this reason they commonly end up on trees, plants, homes, cars, etc.
And if you allow them to live on your structure? They’ll eventually move inside.
As natures more important species, springtails will “test” even the driest of environments and survive so don’t think removing moisture will “cure” a problem. And since they can eat anything organic, they’ll routinely live on any plant or tree, dead or alive as well as any structure, new or old. EVERY structure and plant grows small microscopic mole and algae springtails will harvest as food so the world is their bounty.
This means in the big picture, if you’re dealing with an active springtail problem, you’ll need to think “big” and “everywhere”. So from the ground around your home to the siding to the wall voids to the living spaces; all these areas will need intense treatments.
And don’t forget the sinks, drain lines, tubs and showers.
Springtails can truly exist anywhere and if you keep an open mind to this concept, you can overcome their behavioral patterns and purge any structure or landscape of their presence.
BEST SPRINGTAIL TREATMENT VIDEO – INSIDE THE HOME ^
This short video (less than 60 seconds long) gives you the brief summary of what you’ll need to do inside the home for springtails. View it before reading the article below.
The next video gives you brief outline for what to do outside the home. View that too; its another short one.
BEST SPRINGTAIL TREATMENT VIDEO – OUTSIDE THE HOME ^
This next short video (less than 60 seconds long) gives you the brief summary of what you’ll need to do outside the home for springtails. After viewing it, decide if you’re ready to do the needed work to get rid of this persistent pest. If the answer to that question is yes, read the detailed article below as it will answer all your questions that are relevant to this subject.
The bottom line with springtails and why so many homes continue to have problems is simple: Its usually the WRONG SPRAY BEING USED COMBINED WITH NOT USING ENOUGH. To be clear, springtails do not like to live out in the open and only venture there when populations under siding, in walls and in the ground get so excessive they need to migrate to new areas.
This is the main reason why you need the products we list AND why you need to use the amounts we detail. Only then can you impact them where they are nesting and reproducing so eventually you won’t have to see any.
SPRINGTAIL BIOLOGY ^
Springtails are commonly mistaken for fleas, ants, booklice, bark lice or psocids. Also known as Collembola, springtails eat mold, mildew, fungus and decaying organic matter commonly found in moist areas on and around the home.
They can be found in great numbers in homes which have been built for several years or in homes which are new. And though they seem to just “appear” from nowhere, in fact they take a long time to reach the numbers required for them to over populate and be forced to migrate. Unfortunately, once they reach that level and start migrating up and out of the soil, anything in their way will get infested.
SPRINGTAIL BIOLOGY ^
Springtails prefer to live under slabs, mulch, around drain lines, under house siding or under piles of wood. They will readily move under siding if moisture collects and from there they will move under the siding, into wall voids and eventually inside living spaces.
Springtails are readily found in any soil, leaf litter or mulch and survive well under slabs, under bathtubs and basically anywhere both dark and moist. The author has inspected many homes where large populations were found to be in wall voids, inside rain gutters, in the water closet of a toilet and under roof shingles. On many occasions the numbers were in the tens of thousands. This occurred because the population was never treated and when conditions are prime, they will multiply at alarming rates.
Springtails will develop into many sizes and shapes – even in the same colony – but the one constant among them is their ability to jump. They have an appendage, called a “furcula”, which loads like a spring. When threatened, they will release this spring and propel themselves away from danger – hence the name springtail. They will move in short runs, then rest, and then move again.
Springtails come in many colors and shapes. Young can be clear to white like a small termite. And some species are curled like a flea; others are flat like a psocid or silverfish.
CAN SPRINGTAILS SURVIVE IN THE WINTER? ^
They most certainly can survive in the winter. In fact springtails can withstand extremely cold temperatures and are known to emerge any time of the year. In fact, its not uncommon to find them active in the middle of the winter. On any warm sunny day during the winter, populations thriving alongside a warm foundation wall will readily migrate up and into wall spaces, door frames or in some cases, out over the top of cold snow.
Of course these migrating springtails will die if they don’t get back down in the soil but seeing them during the winter is a sure sign of a problem that needs to be treated and not ignored.
SPRINGTAIL PROBLEMS ^
Springtails become a problem in and around the home when they begin to appear inside, around pools or in garages. The first time or two they emerge no one may notice. Once they establish themselves, however, their numbers will be so large that they will be very evident when they come out. Expect to see tens of thousands of them as they cover the kitchen floor, sinks, tubs, basements, pool areas and patios. It’s important to understand that this behavior is just a symptom of the real problem. In other words, what you are seeing is not where the problem resides but rather a migration of them from an overly populated area in search of somewhere new that they can infest.
WHERE ARE THE SPRINGTAIL NESTS? ^
So one of the keys to understand springtail issues is to understand that springtails migrate on a regular basis. As the worlds most important recycler, they’re constantly looking to “expand” to new areas. And for regions where the ground gets too wet, they’re readily crawl up a homes siding and from there, start living on the home.
But this takes time. They don’t move from the ground to the sides of the home to inside the home in one year. IT WILL TAKE SEVERAL YEARS FOR SPRINGTAILS TO MIGRATE ONTO AND EVENTUALLY INTO A HOME!
Now once they’re inside, it means they’re nesting and reproducing under baseboards, in walls, etc. and why treating inside where you see them is imperative.
Since springtails thrive on any plant or tree, they typically end up on any roof that has leaves or other tree litter. Once on the roof, they’ll thrive in gutters, facia boards and under roof shingles which will then lead them inside to the attic space. From there its just a matter of time before they move down below into living spaces.
Lastly, since they love sewer lines and septic systems, springtails will readily migrate up from water pipes into sinks and from there, migrate into grout, countertops and the surrounding cabinets.
SPRINGTAILS YOU SEE WILL BE NESTING WITHIN 2-3 FEET! ^
What most people don’t realize is that SPRINGTAILS CAN’T MIGRATE FAR IN ANY ONE DAY OR WEEK OR MONTH!
What this means is that if you see them in your sink? They’re either coming from the drain OR the rim where the sink sits in the counter or the cabinet adjacent to the sink.
If you are seeing them around a tub or shower? They’re most likely in any grout line, around the tub or shower stall, under the faucet control knobs or coming out the vent or fan duct.
If they’re around or under any window? The window will need special treatments and probably your homes siding.
For this reason its imperative to focus your treatments on where you see them. And this applies to both outside around the home on the ground, on the homes siding, inside the home on windows/doors, baseboards, sinks, tubs, showers, vents, electric outlets, light fixtures, air ducts, rugs, cabinets and basically WHERE YOU SEE THEM!
If the HOME HAS VINYL, ALUMINUM, STUCCO or WOOD SHAKES, you will probably have to pay it special attention by treating it as detailed below.
This is summarized in the first two video’s above, at the start of this article, so do watch them. And if you decide to tackle this problem? Be sure you understand it will take focused applications using all the products we have listed. Remember, each product is a “tool” and like any good carpenter or mechanic, the more tools in your tool box, the easier it will be to get the job done.
HOW TO CONTROL SPRINGTAILS ^
Springtail problems can take years to develop. In fact they exist in all climates and will readily thrive in the hot southern states or up north where it gets cold and stays cold for 5-6 months a year. Springtails are very much a part of nature and as such fundamental to the recycling of all things organic. Much like termites are natural recyclers of wood; springtails are natural recyclers of plant life.
And even though moisture is related to their survival, its important to understand reducing moisture will not eliminate the problem. Reduced moisture will reduce their numbers. And in living spaces, any house using air conditioning will have an environment “tough” for springtails to use. But if it takes 5-7 days for them to die after they migrate inside and they keep migrating inside daily, they’ll be replacing the dead ones faster then they’re dying which means the amount you see will look like its getting worse with every passing day.
WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN TREATING FOR SPRINGTAILS ^
Now once you start treating a springtail problem, you should expect the process to take a good 2-3 months. Outside applications will eventually end the migration inside. But seeing them inside will be ongoing. Or at least it typically is if you’re already seeing them inside. The key is understanding that if you treat the outside on the schedule we advise below, you will reduce and eventually eliminate the ones entering your home. And once this happens, you won’t be seeing any inside. At least any more “new” springtails.
THE THREE STEPS TO SUCCESSFUL TREATING SPRINGTAIL PROBLEMS ^
In most cases, only two “steps” will be needed to get the problem under control. But if it continues to be an issue after 2 months, you’ll probably need to do the third treatment step too.
Since springtails come from outside, the most important step is treating the homes perimeter. This will be done with granules and liquid spray.
Once the outside is treated, problems inside can be addressed using an aerosol and in some cases a liquid spray. If you see them coming out of drain lines and gathering in a sink, tub or shower, you’ll need to use a drain line treatment too.
Lastly, if the outside and inside have been treated thoroughly for 2 months or more and you’re still seeing them appear inside, you’ll need to treat voids using a dust.
START OUTSIDE WITH THE BEST LAWN GRANULES ^
MAXXTHOR GRANULES are slow releasing and do a great job of penetrating mulch and other damp areas where springtails are known to hide. Treat a band around the home covering at least 10 feet out from the foundation. This will eventually give you a “springtail free” zone on all sides with dirt, mulch, pine straw, etc. Remember, granules are slow to release but this is fine and very much the whole point of using them.
This short video shows you what these look like and how easy they can be to apply.
Expect to use around 1-2 lbs of granules per side of the home. Packed in easy to handle 12.5 lb jugs, expect to get 2 treatments around the home per jug which is enough for 2 months. Plan on treating once a month during the active season.
Any “push” type fertilizer spreader can be used to apply the granules; if you have a lot of flower beds and ground cover making that style impossible to use, go with a HAND SPREADER.
Now if you’re in a state where we cannot ship the Maxxthor, to with the EIGHT GRANULES. They use the same active as the Maxxthor, just 1/2 as strong so you can use twice as much to get the same amount of chemical applied.
BEST OUTSIDE SPRAY FOR SPRINGTAILS ^
If you have a large home or lot and expect to be spraying on a regular basis, get MAXXTHOR EC. This concentrate will cover a lot more area and save cost over time. Mix it at 2.5 oz per 5 gallons of water and use this to cover up to 5,000 sq/ft.
So with our HOSE END SPRAYER, you’ll add the 2.5 oz of Maxxthor to the sprayer and then water so it fills the 5 gallon line. Next hook it to your hose and spray it from the gutters down to the base of the foundation using about 1-2 gallons per side of the home. For large homes, double the dose.
That means a quart of Maxxthor will cover up to 1.5 acres.
Maxxthor is quick killing and its unique formulation allows it to “penetrate” most siding well like brick and masonite. But pests like springtails can come back quickly because once the treatment dries, it will take 2 days to kill the pests walking over it. For this reason its important to “respray” as needed – especially all hotspots where they’re nesting.
This short video provides some insight on why you should expect to be retreating almost daily when first dealing with a bad problem.
Remember, the Granules won’t do anything for the “above ground” pests but they will release and get all the ones breeding in the ground.
But for plants, shrubs, tree bark and house siding, you’ll need to use 1-2 gallons per side of the home spraying from the gutters down to the foundation. And if you find springtails coming back in a few days, spray again. On the outside, spraying when the springtails come back is important. If you don’t see any then once a month treatments with the granules should keep them gone for good.
This next “short” video (less than 60 seconds long) shows how to use the Maxxthor with a Hose End Sprayer.
For springtails, the green top 20 gallon is ideally suited because you can remove the tip from the sprayer and shoot a “laser” spray up reaching heights often required for complete springtail control. Basically with the tip removed, the sprayer will spray as far as your water pressure can reach.
As you can see in the video above, our sprayer is easy to use. The 2.5 oz is recommended for the “average” home meaning you’ll be spraying about 1-2 gallons per side of the home. For grass, pine straw, wood chips and mulch, this same amount will be enough to cover about 5,000 sq/ft.
Now if you are “unsure” about how these Hose End sprayers work, watch this short video. It explains in under a minute how our Hose Ends work and offers up the quick difference between the two we offer so you can get the right one that will be fit your need.
FOR SMALL YARDS THIS SPRAY “MIGHT” WORK ^
If you have a small yard, like 5,000 sq/ft or less to treat, then CYONARA RTS can be an option. It comes with its own sprayer and will treat up to 15,000 sq/ft. For a 5,000 sq/ft yard, you’ll get 3 treatments with one jug.
** KEEP IN MIND ITS NOT NEARLY AS STRONG AS MAXXTHOR!! **
Use Cyonara over ground cover, flowers, mulch, grass and even vegetable gardens. Spray the homes siding too. In general you’ll want to spray “up” as high as your garden hose water pressure will reach. Cyonara is odorless and fast acting.
Cyonara will cover up to 15,000 sq/ft well and in general, one quart will be enough to treat around the home at least 2-3 times. Expect to use Cyonara as is needed. So if you treat on a Saturday and note new springtails on the homes siding in just 4-5 days, spray again. The granules only need to be applied once a month but the Cyonara should be used as is needed until the problem is under control.
Regardless of which concentrate you choose, the key to success is how you apply them. Springtails are small and can easily hide. But these products will knock them down. But you must use a lot of water to distribute the mixture. In fact this is why using a regular pump sprayer just won’t cut it; you need a lot of water to get the most “coverage” and your garden hose with a garden hose sprayer is well suited for this job.
ORGANIC SPRINGTAIL SPRAY ^
Now if you want to use a “green” product instead of the Maxxthor or Cyonara, ESSENTRIA IC is basically the liquid form of the granules mentioned above. Use it at the rate of 2 oz per gallon per 1,000 sq/ft in the hose end sprayer above and you’ll get the same results as either Maxxthor or Cyonara. But it won’t last as long so you may have to treat more often. Essentria can be used inside, outside, and since its made with food grade actives, can be used safely in any kind of “sensitive” environment.
BE THOROUGH WHEN SPRAYING! And when treating, you need to cover everything. This includes the turf adjacent to the home like mulch piles, flower beds and any other area where close to the home. And don’t forget to spray the side of the house. Go up 5-8 feet letting the solution cover everything including the foundation and siding.
Cyonara or Maxxthor will provide a quick knockdown so you’ll see instant results with any exposed springtails dying within a few hours. And the water used to apply it will help get the Maxxthor going into the soil which is fundamental for the long term control of springtails.
HOW TO TREAT SPRINGTAILS UNDER CEMENT AND POOL DECKING ^
Springtails nesting under cement, pool decking, patio slabs, driveways or slab homes will often need extra attention/treatments to deliver the product where its most needed.
You see, the bottom side of any cement slab is a sponge that collects moisture. Mold and algae will readily grow there and pests like springtails, clover mites, millipedes and many others will take advantage of this food.
Once they move in under the cement, it can be near to impossible to reach them with Maxxthor. When this happens, you’ll have them coming up from their nests with no easy way to stop them.
So for patios, sidewalks or driveways that have a lot of springtail activity on top? You need to treat every crack and gap you can find. The following short video shows how to do this.
If you’ve tried and found you’re not able to get enough product through gaps and cracks, you’ll need to consider the next step. This involves drilling holes every 24 inches through the cement and then pumping the MAXXTHOR EC under the slab.
The following “short video” (less than 60 seconds long) shows how our slab injector works.
Space them 2 feet apart; the slab injector will treat sideways a good 1-2 feet thus insuring complete coverage.
Our Hammer Drill comes with several bits and the 1/2″ by 8″ long bit is the most common one needed since most slabs are 4-6″ thick.
Drilling might sound a bit “intimidating” but with this drill, its not hard. We’ll be posting a video shortly on how it operates so you’ll see anyone can do the work. Hammer Drills are generally available for rent from any tool rental company if you don’t want to purchase one.
Once you’ve got the holes all drilled, treat them with our Sub Slab Sprayer.
This sprayer functions just like our Pump Sprayer but has been modded to spray “sideways” instead of straight out. Here is a zoomed in shot of the sprayers nozzle (this picture shows a “used” unit that’s been afield):
The flow will project 1-2 feet sideways so you can fill the gap under the concrete where the dirt has settled.
The best way to use the injector is to slowly push the rod into the slab and try to “feel” the soil underneath. Once you can feel the dirt, lift back up 1-2 inches and spray for 5-10 seconds.
The following “short video” (less than 60 seconds) shows how this injector works and why it may be key for solving your problem:
Over time the dirt under most slabs will settle at least an inch or more and that gap will allow the cement to grow food for most any insect. Mold and algae are common on slab bottoms and springtails love to live here.
Filling the void with Maxxthor will kill all nesting pests and last for several years. Mix the Maxxthor 1 oz per gallon to insure you’re getting 5+ years of residual.
HOW TO TREAT SPRINGTAILS UNDER EXTERIOR SIDING ^
Since springtails are migrating from the ground up and onto structures, they will many times get underneath wood, vinyl, stucco or aluminum siding. When homes get this kind of siding installed, it will often hold moisture which in turn can grow mold, algae and other organic life forms springtails need. So once springtails find these locations, they’ll quickly start nesting and breeding.
Maxxthor sprayed on brick or even masonite will do a good job of keeping it springtail free. But siding like Vinyl, Wood Shakes Stucco or Aluminum will need to be dusted.
The following short video talks about how to dust your homes siding.
If you’re seeing springtails active on or “in” the homes exterior siding, they’ll be nesting in the void. This will require a very specific treatment.
The best product for these areas will be DELTAMETHRIN DUST. This dust is like “baby powder” but its moisture resistant and can be “puffed” up and into all the gaps and voids. Dusting will last several months and if you do a good soil treatment with the granules and liquid spray, you may not have to treat these areas again.
Use Deltamethrin Dust at the rate of 1 lb for every 1,000 sq/ft of siding.
Apply the dust with a good HAND DUSTER.
If you need to dust row after row of vinyl siding, cedar shakes or some other exterior siding springtails are using, consider getting a DUSTICK. This tool will let you do the dusting from the ground without having to climb a ladder.
Our Dustick features 4 extensions, each 4 feet long, which can be used one at a time or slid over one another to create a tool 8 feet long, 12 feet long, 16 foot long and longer if needed. Combined with the dust canister on top and the pump assembly on the bottom, you will be able to treat locations up to 25 feet high while standing on the ground and you can purchase extra 4 foot extensions to make it even longer.
This short video (less than 1 minute long) gives a good overview of how the Dustick works and why its essential for homes with springtails living under the exterior siding.
When you have a lot of siding and trim to treat where springtails might be nesting, Deltamethrin dust is longest lasting formulation for the job and may be needed. And since it will control other pests too, it’s your best bet for long term control on siding when springtails are active in this area.
SPRINGTAIL SPRAY FOR INSIDE THE HOME ^
Once springtails start migrating up the homes foundation, its only a matter of time before they start appearing inside living areas. Depending on where you’re seeing them in the home, there are a range of treatments to use.
SPRAY INSIDE THE HOME WITH FS MP and BITHOR ^
Around windows and entry points above ground, use FS MP AEROSOL. This product is quick killing and repellent so it will stop them from entering where applied. This should be used above ground, around window frames and be sure to open and spray the window sill and outside around the window as well. These are all key entry points and spots where springtails like to nest.
Treat these entry points thoroughly both inside and outside if possible. Do this as needed meaning if you spray on a Saturday and notice new ones in two days, spray again. Eventually you will force them to forage elsewhere or you’ll get ahead of the cycle as the outside spray and granules have some time to do their job.
HOW TO TREAT CABINETS FOR SPRINGTAILS ^
The following video details how to treat your sink and the cabinet underneath. The techniques used for the cabinet apply to all areas of the home including doors, windows, baseboards and anywhere you’re seeing activity.
FS MP is strong and does a great job of deterring the invasion. But again, if you’re not treating the baseboards inside and the ground surrounding the home, the problem will just continue so the FS MP is not a cure all, its more of a way to manage the invasion.
HOW TO TREAT A WINDOW FOR SPRINGTAILS ^
Windows are one of the key entry points for springtails and thoroughly treating every gap can get rid of all their pocket nests. Its super important to focus on all places where they may be hiding.
Most people miss so many of these key spots so be sure to watch the following video which details how to be thorough for any window using either the FS MP or the Bithor with the Mini Mister (both listed below).
HOW TO TREAT AIR VENTS, ELECTRIC OUTLETS, WALLS AND CEILINGS ^
Another key entry point are air vents, electric outlets, light switch covers and any “port” that leads to wall voids. From these areas you’ll see them active on walls and ceilings. But how do you treat these areas effectively without making a mess?
The following “short video” (less than 60 seconds) shows how to safely treat these entry points using either FS MP Aerosol or Demise Dust. As you’ll see, they’re not living inside the vent or duct as much as the gap between it and the cover you see in the living areas. Get those areas dusted or sprayed with the FS MP to stop springtails from using the space.
So for entry points in the wall, the FS MP AEROSOL is good. But if you’re worried about stains (its oil based), go with DEMISE DUST. Its dry and in a wall or ceiling, treatments will last several years.
Demise Dust is the best option since it will last several years. Its highly repellent too so even if springtails are abundant in the wall or attic, they won’t be able to pass through these treated entry points.
Use a CRUSADER to apply the Demise.
HOW TO TREAT WALLS AND CEILINGS ^
Once springtails enter through walls or ceilings, you’ll see them around these points of entry and most likely underneath, down on the ground or worse, IN YOUR BED!
This is almost a certain sign of them entering from above so get those areas dusted as detailed above.
But should also treat the walls and ceilings.
The following “short video” shows two products being used for these surfaces. As you can see, they won’t make a mess so perfect for these hard to treat surfaces.
So the “ready to use” option is the MULTIPURPOSE AEROSOL.
This odorless, water based spray won’t stain or make a mess when used properly.
Lightly mist it on all ceilings and walls (be sure to wear eye protection when spraying “up”).
This short video shows why the Mini Mister is ideal for applying Bithor to walls and ceilings. As you’ll see, it creates a light aerosol so it won’t make a mess or stain.
Add 1/2 oz of Bithor to the Mini Misters tank and plan on getting around 250 sq/ft of coverage per tank.
Of course you can always apply it with a standard PUMP SPRAYER too.
Remember as a non repellent, it will take a day or two for active springtails to die so expect to see them active as long as they keep coming from the wall or ceiling.
The Mini Mister is the best way to apply Bithor to walls and ceilings but even on baseboards and carpets.
This short video gives you a quick preview (less than 60 seconds) of how the Mini Mister works. Go to our MINI MISTER PRODUCT PAGE if you wish to see a more comprehensive video presentation:
And if you have a good pump sprayer, it can be used as well.
HOW TO GET RID OF SPRINGTAILS IN YOUR SINK ^
Springtails commonly appear in sinks and this will happen because drain lines are a direct pathway inside most any home. Here are some images showing a mass of springtails around a kitchen sink.
Remember, drain lines typically run to sewer lines or septic tanks. Both of these locations are prime springtail nest sites and when populations are growing and expanding in these outside areas, migrating springtails will forage up drain lines and into your home. And once they come up out of the sink, they’ll be looking for a place to start new nests.
So if you’re finding them in the sink, you’ll need to treat the sink drain line.
FIRST USE NO SURVIVORS DOWN THE DRAIN ^
Now for the sink drain lines? YOU NEED TO USE BOTH OF THESE NEXT TWO PRODUCTS DOWN THE DRAIN!
Because these areas are what we call “sensitive”, its best to use two products approved these locations.
So the first product to use is designed to take away spring tail food. All drains will slowing accumulate a slime buildup of organic matter. It doesn’t take much to feed springtails and regular sink cleaners like clorox bleach or Draino won’t help.
What works is ENZ A BAC NO SURVIVORS down the drain. This material will break down and allow the organic matter to wash away. It uses enzymes – not acid – to dismantle the material so its no longer nutrional or useful for any insect.
Bleach, Drain-O and other cleaners won’t remove this slime so don’t waste your money using them. Enz A Bac No Survivors is made for this purpose and when combined with LEMON AIR (seen below), you can eliminate this area as a nest site for good.
No Survivors contains a bacteria which will “feed” upon all organic matter down any drain and effectively make it “useless” to insects.
This short video (less than 60 seconds long) explains how to use our No Survivors and how easily it is to apply weekly:
Plan on using No Survivors once a week for one month. After that every 2-4 weeks should keep the drains healthy and free flowing.
Treatments should be done just before retiring for the evening, so the treatment can “sit” overnight and work for a few hours before the water is run again.
Use 2-3 oz of Survivors per drain; it can be safely used in sinks, showers, floor and tub drains. Run warm to “semi-hot” water for 20 seconds and then add the Survivors by pouring the 2-3 oz directly down the drain as the warm water drains. Alternatively you can add 2-3 oz to 16-32 oz of warm water and stir the mixture for 5 seconds then pour it down the drain.
SECOND USE LEMON AIR DOWN THE DRAIN ON ANY NIGHT WHEN YOU DON’T USE NO SURVIVORS
Compliment the No Survivors with LEMON AIR DOWN THE DRAIN insect killer. This product is the only labeled insect killer for use down drains that effectively kills on contact and eliminates all stages of insects like springtails, flies, mites, ants, roaches, crickets and more.
As the name implies, Lemon Air smells like lemons. It uses a unique active primarily used as a sanitizing agent for floors and drains. Its also a viruscide, labled to KILL COVID 19 along with other bacteria, viruses and microbes. This feature makes it unique in that can also kill many insects too – especially those which need microbes, mold, mildew and other organic matter for food.
When used down the drain on any night other than the night you use Enz a Bac, Lemon Air will actively kill any insects and keep the drain smelling lemony fresh.
Add 2 oz to a gallon of water in a bucket and pour 1/2 gallon down any drain you want to treat.
This short video (less than 60 seconds long) explains how to use our Lemon Air Drain Treatment and how easily it is to apply as needed:
Lemon Air should be applied at least once a week but can be used as needed. If springtails are reappearing 2-3 days after you spray, treat again.
Lemon Air can also be used with a sponge or rag around counter edges, cracks and crevices as well as on the faucet, water levers and other places where springtails like to hide. Again, retreat as needed since Lemon Air will only be active for a day or two. It quickly dissipates so its safe for use where food and eating utensils are processed.
Keep in mind the use of aerosols down the drain can provide quick kills too. But the treatment won’t go deep down the drain nor will it be able to coat everything nearly as well compared to the Lemon Air. By pouring 1/2 gallon down the drain, you’re getting every surface on which the springtails can live so they can’t escape.
THIRD TREAT THE GROUT AROUND SINKS, TUBS AND DRAINS ^
Many times once the springtails come up from the drain, they migrate into tiny cracks and crevices common to any sink, shower or tub. If you have grout lines or other tiny gaps where you suspect they may be nesting, the FS MP (see above) will be needed.
The following “short” video (less than 60 seconds) gives a good overview of how to apply it to the grout, around faucet covers, etc. (scroll back “up” to order some).
TREAT THE YARD AND SEPTIC TANKS FOR SPRINGTAILS ^
If you have a septic tank in the yard or suspect there is a cracked drain line leading to the city sewer, you’ll want to treat the dirt above and around the septic tanks and/or pipes out in the yard.
In some cases this will be easy. Septic tanks will many times have covers or caps that can be lifted. Gaining access to these areas will enable you to direct the treatment right where it matters.
Give the exposed soil, rocks and void a good spray down with MAXXTHOR EC monthly to keep springtails and other pests in check. By killing them here they won’t be able to follow your drain lines up and into the home when they migrate.
Follow the directions detailed above; 1 oz in our 20 GALLON HOSE END SPRAYER is enough to get 5,000 sq/ft treated.
If your septic tank system is covered in dirt, you’ll need to use a less direct treatment method. Do this by applying MAXXTHOR SG applied over the top. Once in place, the granules will slowly release active down in the soil and eventually penetrating deep enough where it can adversely affect the reproducing springtails.
Apply 2 lbs of granules for every 1,000 sq/ft of turf.
BEST SPRINGTAIL TRAPS ^
To help identify springtail pockets (nests) in the home, set out SPRINGTAIL TRAPS. These traps are well suited for use on countertops, around sinks, on sensitive furniture, beds where springtails have been seen and window sills. Other good locations to set traps would be around a shower or tub, a toilet bowl, inside plant pots and under furniture cushions.
Traps measure 4.25″ wide by 3.75″ long and less stand less than 1/2″ tall so they’re pretty flat. Each trap features a unique moisture lure in the glue that springtails find attractive. This will attract them from a few feet away and once they enter, they’ll be caught by the glue inside.
For general springtail monitoring, space traps every 10-20 feet and keep at least two traps per room. For specific areas like a bed or window sill, one trap will usually cover a 25-40 sq/ft area.
The glue and bait lure will remain active for 2-3 months but replace traps sooner if they get filled with insects.
SPRINGTAILS IN CRAWL SPACES ^
If you have a moist, damp crawlspace with springtails, dusting with DELTAMETHRIN DUST once a year is the way to get such an area protected. The use of the Dust will provide a long residual and effectively reduce the amount of times you will have to treat.
Typically a good dusting will last at least 6 months and can easily last over a year.
Apply the dust at the rate of 1 lb for every 1,000 sq/ft of surface area. So if the space is 500 sq/ft, plan on using a full pound of dust because you need to cover the floor and the ceiling (which is the floor boards of above) since springtails will many times live up in the floor joists too.
For open spaces, use a DUSTIN MIZER to apply the dust.
The following short video shows how to use it for an attic space.
It can blow the dust a good 20-25 feet out insuring good coverage.
WHAT ABOUT USING A PEST CONTROL SERVICE COMPANY FOR SPRINGTAIL CONTROL? ^
Are you currently using a pest control service company and still having springtail problems? We hear this complaint quite a bit.
So first, we sell to many pest control services and we understand the challenges they’re confronted with regarding certain pests like springtails. The simple fact is they don’t have the time to keep coming back to homes that need followup service and why most companies will not service your home for this pest.
Now we have seen many instances where customers use a service company but end up doing a lot of treating themselves. This insures all the key locations are getting attention when needed which can be several times a week until the problem is resolved.
And since the level of treatments needed for most springtail infestations aren’t covered under regular pest control contracts, it’s the only way for the problem to be handled.
HIRE A HANDYMAN ^
What if you are overwhelmed by all the treatments that will be needed and can’t find a pest control company to do the work? Then hire a handyman.
These small companies are almost always eager to take on new work and if you let them know you’ll need their services as the springtails come back, they’ll usually be keen to take on the project.
Handymen are usually skilled on ladders so ready to treat home siding, around gutters and all the “hard” treatments.
This will enable you to get our products and facilitate their use in and around your home.
The best arrangement seems to be using the Handyman for the outside work (or a landscape company) and then for the FS MP Aerosol and Bithor inside, you do the work as needed. Just follow our guidelines making sure to identify the key locations for them to treat and there is no reason you can’t reach your goal.
Springtails are a pest in and around the home throughout the United States. They are able to live in all types of soil and will thrive when wet, damp conditions are available. Though easy to kill, you must get to their nest sight if you intend on breaking their cycle and preventing massive migration and activity in the future. To do this you will need to use a combination of the products featured above. Two or three treatments will usually resolve any level of infestation along with moisture reduction and you should be able to knock them out once and for all.
HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO GET RID OF SPRINGTAILS? ^
No one can answer that question for sure. But if you treat the outside as explained above, you will stop them from entering which is the first step. And by following our recommended schedule of once a month granules and spray applied around the home, you’ll prevent new ones from migrating up. This will usually take several applications on the outside but once the chemicals have time to take effect, you shouldn’t have to anymore. In general, this will take 1-2 months and at least 3-6 applications.
As for the inside of the home, specifically living spaces, it will take longer. This is because in general, they don’t migrate to the open areas until they have well established “pocket nests” behind walls, around windows, around doors, down the drain, etc. So to not see any inside? It will require you to kill off their nest “pockets”.
This can be done faster by employing our aerosol and dust so for persistence issues, be sure use them. In other words, surface spraying inside will only offer short term relief if you don’t knock out their pocket nests. For this reason, it can take 2-3 applications a week for 2-3 months before they’re gone inside. But once you reach that milestone and the outside is being properly maintained, you shouldn’t have to see any inside anymore.
Another huge key is to not get frustrated or deterred once you begin. Springtail problems take years to develop and for this reason, you cannot knock them out with just 1-2 treatments. And remember, if you find them active a few days of treating any section of the home, it means one of two things. You’re either not using enough when you spray OR you’re not spraying frequently enough. So if you want to get rid of these pests for good, be prepared to battle!
CONTACT US ^
Give us a call if you need further help or “text a tech” at 678-667-2284. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM. On Saturday, 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time).
Email questions here: https://bugspray.com/about-us/contact-us
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