Termites are a wood destroying insect that can cause a lot of damage to homes and basically anything made with wood. Termites are important in nature because they help recycle dead trees along with anything made with cellulose. But when they invade our homes and eat away at our house, a good termite control program must be instituted.
This short video (less than 60 seconds long) shows a massive Termite Swarm, not an average one. Note the way they all look the same and how they fly. Seeing a swarm like this is about as rare as seeing a BIGFOOT!
Overall termite swarmers are not great flyers, they mostly futter and one of the ways you can tell its termites and not gnats, flying ants or some other flying pest
MASSIVE TERMITE SWARM
DO IT YOURSELF TERMITE CONTROL
At this time there are many options for doing a termite treatment inside and around the home. And though termite treatments used to be something that one would hire a service company to perform, the products being used are a lot easier to handle and apply.
The following “short video” (less than 60 seconds long) summarizes how to do a termite job around the average home.
So if you’re a do-it-yourselfer and want to save a lot of money by doing your own termite treatment, doing this work can save you THOUSANDS OF $$$$
WHAT TERMITE CHEMICAL IS BEST?
First you’ll need to decide what type of product to use. In general, termiticides fall into one of two groups. Repellent and non-repellent.
Repellent products tend to last longer. They will kill insects that travel through the treatment but in most cases, they “repel” insects.
Non-repellents are not detectable by insects. The goal of a non-repellent is to get enough of the active colony exposed to the chemical which in turn can kill the nest. This approach is effective for insects which live in communities like ants, termites and bedbugs.
And then there are bait stations and “local” treatments for infested wood.
But what’s the best treatment? And which chemicals are the “best” to use? The answer depends on which company you ask. In our opinion, they all can work when used properly. At least that’s what our hands on experience shows. And the goal of this article is to share some of that information and experience so you too can decide what will work best for your property.
BEST REPELLENT TERMITE CHEMICAL
If you want to treat around a structure before you have any sign of termites, use MAXXTHOR EC. Termites will readily detect it and stay away from where its been applied. Mix 1 quart of concentrate with 100 gallons of water (.32 oz per gallon of water) and apply this mixture to a small trench you’ll need to dig around the homes foundation. Plan on using 4 gallons of mixed product per 10 linear feet.
The label allows for a variable rate of coverage but in general, 1 quart of concentrate mixed at this rate can protect any home which has up to 250 linear feet of foundation to treat if you apply 4 gallons for every 10 feet of trench.
Treatments will last 5-10 years and can be renewed if new termites are found or if the treated soil is disrupted.
NON REPELLENT TERMITE SPRAY
The “newer” products for termite treatments include actives which are very different compared to Maxxthor. Instead of relying on “repellency” (the chemical being detected), these newer compounds rely on a “stealthy” approach. This means you can achieve success with less chemical because the treatment is non-detectable by foraging termites.
These actives are the better choice if you have active termites because the termites will assuredly walk through your application. This insures they’ll be exposed and “share” the treatment with the rest of the colony. Conversely, the use of a repellent like Maxxthor EC may only chase them elsewhere and sometimes they can find an alternate entry route. So if you have an active infestation, we recommend our non-repellent concentrate for your initial treatments.
The original and still best option for use around the home is PROTHOR SC. Mix 1 jug per 50 gallons of water (.5 oz per gallon of water) and apply 5 gallons to every 12.5 linear feet. At this rate 1 jug will make 50 gallons of finished product and will be able to treat 125 linear feet. Treatments will last 3-5 years making Prothor a cost effective option for any structure.
ADD BOOST TO GET FASTER AND DEEPER SOIL PENETRATION
Regardless of which active you choose, add SPREAD-X BOOST to your tank mix. Boost is an adjuvant, also known as a wetter spreader or spreader sticker. It basically makes water and the mixture more “slippery” so the mixture will penetrate the soil deeper and faster.
The following short video summarizes why Boost can help deliver your treatment better to where it matters the most. And this is extra helpful when treating homes for termites.
Add equal amounts of Boost with the Maxxthor or Prothor. So in this case, if you’re adding 2.5 oz of Maxxthor or Prothor to a 5 gallon pail, add 2.5 oz of Boost as well before adding water.
HOW TO TREAT UNDER CEMENT SLABS
For most homes, getting the Maxxthor or Prothor above under a cement slab can be challenging. But its also important if you want long term control.
To get patio slabs, inside the home slabs, stoops and garage floors treated, plan on drilling holes with a good HAMMER DRILL.
Our Impact Hammer Drill comes with everything needed and will drill a 1/2″ hole through most any 4-6″ thick slab in 30 seconds or less. It includes several bits, most are around 6″ long or less but we do include one that’s 12″ long in case you have some super thick cement.
The following “short video” (less than 60 seconds long) explains how to drill through cement slabs and use our SLAB INJECTOR to treat.
As explained in our video, sub slab treatments are important for many pests and remember, once done will last a long time.
Plan on spacing holes 2 feet apart where possible; no more than 3 feet apart.
And when drilling slabs adjacent to foundation walls, drill them 6″ out from the wall. Using our Slab injector, treat each hole for 30 seconds.
TERMITE BAIT STATIONS
Another option commonly used by many professionals today are TERMITE BAIT STATIONS. These offer a very different mode of control in that they’re not a spray but instead a feeding station where termites will go to eat.
Like other insect baits, the goal is to have the target, in this case termites, eat what they “think” is okay. What they can’t detect is the treated bait and by the time they realize its making their colony sick, its too late.
Stations can be placed anywhere in the yard around the home and are a great way to both “monitor” termite activity and kill off active nests around your home.
To be clear, WE ALWAYS RECOMMEND TREATING WITH ONE OF THE PRODUCTS ABOVE FOR AN ACTIVE PROBLEM!
But using termite stations in conjunction with liquid treatments for preventing termites is a good integrated pest management approach.
Stations should be 10-15 feet apart when termite activity is known to exist. Keep them at least 10 feet away from the foundation and where they won’t get stepped on. Flower beds, under mulch and along property borders is a great location to keep them concealed. Make sure they’re not in standing water but where there is some moisture and shade.
Once in place, plan on inspecting them every 1-2 months. Each station comes with 2 wood blocks used to attract them. Once termites are found inside, replace the top block with the Bait Cartridge seen further down this page.
To remove the lid, you’ll need at least one BAIT STATION KEY. Keys slide into the “groove” on the lid and then a simple “click” to the left and the lid will snap open.
Stations should be inspected once a month and once you find live termites feeding, remove the top wood block and replace it with an active BAIT CARTRIDGE. This cartridge contains a slow working active (another non repellent) that will then infiltrate the colony for 1-2 weeks before shutting it down.
HOW TO TREAT TERMITES IN WOOD
For termites discovered in floor joists, sill plate, fences or some other area above ground, consider using the POWER INJECTOR.
New for 2025, the Power Injector is something we’ve needed for a long time. It was first created to effectively replace aerosol products to help reduce on cost and waste (of throw away cans) but its turned out to be a lot more.
So first, you get to control what you’re spraying. In other words, now you can use the best chemicals like Bithor or Maxxthor in a small, hand held can. Currently there are no “ready to spray” aerosols which use these top of the line actives.
Second, you get to control the power. Standard aerosols run on 15-20psi. But with the Power Injector, you can power it up to 90psi. This will get you 3-5 times deeper penetration which can be all the difference when it comes to solving tough pest problems with wood destroying pests like termites.
Third, you can use BASE OIL in the Power Injector. Unlike other oil based aerosols that have odors, Base Oil is odorless. And when mixed with Maxxthor, you’ll have the strongest mixture at your fingertips to eradicate pests even if they’re deeply embedded in structural members or even hardwood floors.
The following video highlights these features in less than 1 minute:
Since the filming of the video above, we’ve added a 50″ long straw that’s now included with the Power Injector. This will help you get even deeper penetration. Again, the deeper you can inject treatments is vital if you want to eradicate your pest problem.
The Power Injector can be pumped up to inject better compared to any aerosol but where you can really benefit is by using BASE OIL with Maxxthor in the tank. Base oil migrates through wood like no other solvent and so it will carry the active ingredients (in the Maxxthor) 5-10x deeper compared to any water based mixture. For pests that like to nest in wood, this can be big help.
The following short video explains why Base Oil is so good at enhancing the Power Injectors range:
As the video above explains, Base Oil can really help get deliver your treatments where it needs to reach. So if you’ve had issues behind the walls, the Power Injector is probably going to be needed and to get full control of what it can do, use it with Base Oil.
Base Oil comes in quarts, 1/2 gallon and 1 gallon jugs. Plan on using 16 oz per tank in the Power Injector so the 1/2 gallon will make 4 cans and the gallon jug, 8 cans. We recommend 5ml of Maxxthor per 16 oz of Base Oil; no more than 10ml. We include a 10ml eye dropper so its easy to add Maxxthor to the tank.
When filled to 60psi, the Power Injector will take around 3.5 minutes to empty. We generally recommend using it at low pressure to start, to avoid splashback, so 15-20psi is usually plenty strong. But if you’re able to inject deep running termite galleries, power it up to 40 or more. Just be sure to use eye protection when treating at all times in case of splashback.
LARRY says
HELLO GUYS. I APPRECIATE YOUR WEB SITE. I DON’T KNOW IF THIS PEST IS A TERMITE ARE NOT. THEY ARE LIKE SMALL MOTHS AND THEY CONGREGATE ON THE CEILING. I SOMETIMES FIND SMALL LAVA LIKE CREATURES. THEY FLY VERY SLOW AND I FIND VERY FEW ALL OVER THE HOUSE WITH THE HIGHER CONCENTRATION FOUND IN THE GARAGE. PLEASE ADVISE.
Tech Support says
Sounds a lot like some kind MEAL MOTH. They do fly slow, kind o flutter, and tend to land on the walls and ceiling when foraging. They live in grass seed, bird seed, pet food and pantries. You can read up on them here:
Pantry Moths: https://bugspray.com/pantry-moths
Give us a call toll free if you still have questions. Our number is 1-800-877-7290.
Kim says
Hello,
I was wondering if your products (if yes, which ones) can be effective on treating a wood beam that was already attacked by termites (the beam has one hot spot!)
Thank you!
Tech Support says
For wood that’s above ground and reachable, use Borathor. It will penetrate unfinished wood and penetrate deep making it ideal for wood destroying organisms like powderpost beetles and termites. Borathor is odorless and treatments done inside a structure can last 5-10 years no problem. Outside applications will last 3-5 years so even when exposed to the elements, it can do the job.
And since Borathor is odorless, it can be used just about anywhere in the home for long term control on wood which is subject to wood rot, moisture and insect attacks.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor-max
Natalie says
Am I looking at a springtails or termites? I have minuscule blond colored dirt colored things that look like dirt specs but hop like fleas in my bathroom sink…I also have a bay window in the living room that leaked at one point and the window seat there sometimes has 20-30 small bod, round bodied winged black bugs (usually already dead) bugs…these I have also seen in other windows of the home like patio door and they flit or fly about in small spurts—they do not hop. My yard is always damp 2-3 days longer than everyone elses after rain or snow melt because it is a lower lying property that likely needs drain tiles at some point. The home is 14 years old and I bought it 3 years ago. The window bugs can be seen anytime. The bathroom sink bugs seem to appear when it is dark or at night. When I turn on the light at night or go into the bath in the mornings there are usually 3-7 of these things which I know are not fleas although they do hop. I live on a slab and there is a bathroom drain trap outside the home outside a bedroom joining to the bathroom. Please help!
Tech Support says
No doubt the bugs you’re finding in your sinks are springtails. I suggest you get some of the PT221 listed in our springtail article and get the sinks treated ASAP. This should provide immediate results and its very easy to do.
Next, you’ll need to treat the outside using some Bifen Granules and Cyonara RTS. These are also listed in our springtail article. This treatment will help control all the springtails no doubt nesting in the ground around the home (along with many other pests).
As for the bugs you’re finding in your windows; how frequently do you see them? 1-2 a year or more frequently? And can you email us some pictures of these insects?
No doubt it could be termites but there are many other pests that resemble what you described so it’s just not possible for us to know for sure unless you provide more information and ideally, some pictures.
Here are links to these items mentioned above in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
PT-221: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/pt-221-l-17-5-oz
Bifen Granules: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb
Cyonara RTS: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts
And here is a link to our Springtail article:
Springtails: https://bugspray.com/article/springtail
Jessica says
I’ve found termites coming out of my exhaust fans in both bathrooms last night. How do I treat a shingled roof?
Tech Support says
First and foremost, all kinds of termites send out what we call “swarmers” and these can be seen in unusual areas such as vents, light fixtures, etc. But where you see them is not the deciding factor as to where you will have to treat. For that we’ll need more information.
And the “more information” we’ll need is what kind of termites you have active. Dry wood termites live above ground and will require a direct application to their nest. Subterranean termites live in the soil and will require treatments to the dirt. That means regardless of where you’re seeing them, the treatment method will depend first on the species.
So for now, find out what they are. This can be done by bringing some samples to any local pest control company that does termite work. They should be able to look at your sample and know quickly what they are. Once you find this out, contact us again and we should be able to further help if you want to treat the problem yourself.
Cheers,
Jonathan
Customer Care
http://www.bugspray.com
770-985-9388
1-800-877-7290
Caroline says
Hi, thanks for your site and videos.
I found a dry-wood termite infestation on my floor (through a pile of recurring pellets). I put orange oil in the tiny hole and it stopped. However, I am sure there are more in the wall below. That wall is “finished” but my guess is that they’re in the unexposed studs. What do you suggest product-wise and approach-wise to eviscerating them? Must I open the wall? It’s painted drywall.
Thanks a lot!
Caroline
Tech Support says
Caroline,
Drywood termites are different from the subterranean species discussed above. Drywoods live their lives above ground, typically hidden in a wall void or piece of furniture, and require a direct treatment to knock them out.
Since “orange” oil is more of a repellent and not a traditional pesticide, I would refrain from using it anymore. All it will do is chase them deeper into the void making a successful treatment harder to achieve.
But two products that work well on any kind of hidden pest like drywood termites is Premise Foam and Borathor.
For large open areas like attic decking, rafters and crawl spaces, Borathor is well suited. So if this wall you’re talking about is directly below an attic, getting up into the attic space to inspect the area would be smart. And if you locate termites in that space too, treating all exposed wood with Borathor would protect it many years to come. Basically the Borathor would absorb into the wood and anything which tries to feed on the wood in the future would die.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor-max
Since Borathor is not well suited for wall voids, I believe Premise Foam is what you’ll need. To treat the wall void with the foam, you’ll first need to drill small holes above the area where you see activity. These holes should be 1/4″ and spaced 1-2 feet apart.
Use the included injector tips that come with the Premise to pump the foam into the holes. Premise uses a non-repellent active so termites won’t know its a chemical. They’ll readily walk over the treatment picking up a lethal dose which will kill them a few days following the treatment.
Premise: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/premise-foam-18-oz
Premise will last several years when applied in a hidden space in the wall and you should try treat as much of the immediate area as possible to ensure you get thorough coverage. But since Premise won’t spook them, as long as you get one main site where they’re active you should kill all nests once enough crawl through the treatment.
Now if by chance you are keen on opening up the wall to see what’s happening inside, treating with Borathor will become the best option but there is a good chance you can avoid all the work by using the Premise.
Give us a call if you need further help and refer to our Drywood Termite article for more information on this pest:
Drywood Termites: https://bugspray.com/drywood-termite-control.html
Tech Support
http://www.bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290