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To Bugspray.com

I live in the Florida Keys and we are always combating mosquitoes and noseeums. Over the past 15 years I have tried everything under the sun. At the time I contacted Chad at bugspray.com I had two “Pro” series Mosquito Magnets running 24 hours a day. They caught a bunch of bugs but we still were getting eaten alive. In the summer months it was impossible to sit in our back yard even after spraying yourself down with Deet.

I purchased a Solo Backpack Mist blower, Exciter, Permethrin, and Nylar. After the first fogging we could not believe the results. For the first time ever there were no bugs, none! These products are nothing short of amazing! For the first time ever we can enjoy our beautiful outdoors without welts and scratching. Our dogs also had rashes on their stomach from bites and that is completely gone. These people and their products have been a life changer for us. We now spend all of our time outdoors instead of hunkering down behind a screen.

Above all the customer service at Bugspray.com is off the charts. It is great having a “coach” you can turn to with any questions you might have. They are incredible!

Thanks for giving us our life back!

Howard, Florida Keys

Mist Blower: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/solo-mistblower-backpack

6 % Pyrethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/exciter-16-oz

Permethrin SFR:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/perm-sfr

Nylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

I would like to thank the staff at bugspray.com for their assistance. I know I called a few times but each time they were very professional and spent all the time needed to answer my questions & make suggestions. Thanks bugspray.com!!

We’d like to thank you for your very honest & professional advice on all things related to the invasion of Chinese Stink Bugs that’s been plaguing the East Coast & other states for several years (29 states, at last count). The “pest control” companies here have absolutely NO idea how to control these particular bugs & won’t guarantee their eradication: but U-Spray knows exactly what to do! Thanks to you we’ve been able to keep ahead of this severe problem. We’ve recommended U-Spray to everyone we know.

Your website is so awesome! It explains how to do the job correctly and most important, safely. The general public, like me, have no clue about the right way to use and store these chemicals. I tell everyone to go to your site for information on any household pest there is, as well as how nice and supportive you guys are with questions. Just want you to know how appreciated you are! God blesses those who bless His people and your company is just that, a blessing to all! I know you and yours be mightily blessed:)

Many Thanks,

Cindy

 

I have a bad problem with mice and I know that since I have have both pets and a 2 year old son, I would guess live traps would be best. They have always been a bad problem in the attic. The snap traps do not work there and the mice seem to have no interest in Decon pellets. What do you think would be best for live traps? I would need at least 2. And also what would be the best bait? I also need to have something to help keep mice away from the house too. I live on a ranch and there are hay stacks, an old barn and many other places the mice are at. If I can just keep them away and out of the house would be great. One last thing, what is best for cleaning up mice urine and feces? We have recently noticed when our dishwasher is on the drying cycle and startes to steam, it puts out an awful awful smell, but only when its on the drying “steam” cycle. Please help!!

First, you should review our MICE CONTROL article which covers everything I’m about to summarize but in great detail. As you’ll learn in our article, using live traps is generally the best way to proceed all the time. There are many reasons for this but the top three are 1) Traps last a long time. I’ve had two for over 10 years and I’ve been using them both outside and inside my home during this time. They still work as good as new and I fully expect they’ll last at least another 10 years. This makes them the most cost effective approach for sure. 2) Mice don’t become afraid of live traps so you can catch even the most timid of the lot. 3) Live traps pose no hazard to people, pets or any other non-target animal making it the safest option too.

Mice: http://www.bugspray.com/mice.html

Now which trap is the “best live trap”? That’s a tough call. Personally I like the LT3310 because it will work on chipmunks, flying squirrels and rats as well as mice, shrews, voles and more. But the TIN CAT or the MOUSE MASTER are good options too if feel you need a trap that can catch multiple animals.

More on these can be seen here: http://bugspray.com/mice.html#mice-live-traps

LT3310:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/cage/live-trap-3-x-3-x-10

Tin Cat: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/cage/tin-cat-mouse-trap

Mouse Master: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/cage/mouse-master-clear-top

As for what to use as bait to get them into the trap? No doubt our TRAPPERS CHOICE PECAN PASTE is the best lure available. Add a few pieces of dry dog food or some bird seed in the back of the trap along with some Pecan Paste and you’ll be able to round up any mouse that comes close to the offer. I like to place 1/2 teaspoon of Pecan Paste on the trip pan and then I smear a little of the paste on the front door frame. This helps to draw their attention to the trap opening and dare I say it works every time :)

Pecan Paste: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/lure/pecan-paste

Now once you can go at least 2 weeks without noticing any new activity (i.e.: droppings) or without catching any more mice, you can consider using some granules. For inside the home, set out EVAC POUCHES. These can be used in attics, closets, behind dish washers, etc.

Evac: http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/granules/evac_rodent_repellent

For outside the home, sprinkle PEST RID GRANULES around any structure you want to protect. Next, spray over the top of the granules with PEST RID SPRAY. This should also be sprayed on foundation walls or any other location where they might crawl or forage.

Pest Rid Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/granule/pest-rid-exempt-granules-2-pound

Pest Rid Spray: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/pest-rid-exempt-liquid-repellent

Lastly, we have several odor control options covered in this section of our article:

Mouse Odor: http://bugspray.com/mice.html#how-to-cleanup-mice-odor

So if its just around the dishwasher where the odor is active, the ODOR DESTROYER should do the job fine. But if you have more extensive areas to treat, get some NNZ. This material works on all kinds of odors and will effectively neutralize any kind of malodor including dead rodent smell, odors from droppings, etc.

Odor Destroyer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/odor-destroyer

NNz:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!



What do you use to get rid of thrips inside a house?? An infestation? I am desperate. Exterminators have tried sprays and bombs and nothing works. Help.

Since thrips fly, its not likely you can control them in the home using a liquid spray because there are too many potential nest sites. Basically they’ll just avoid the spray and learn to thrive using untreated areas.

Additionally, total release aerosols (bombs) will only kill active stages. That means maturing adults which hatch just hours after a bomb is set won’t die or be affected in any way. So within a day or two, the problem will be as strong as ever.

So what can you do that will get rid of thrips? That’s easy.

Basically you must use a space spray. This is a type of spray that will float around in the air so you have all the “space” in the home protected. And it needs to be active 24 hours a day; 7 days a week. This is the only sure way one can kill off the emerging young and adults.

Ultimately by killing the adults, you will break their life cycle because without adults, there won’t be new eggs.

So what do you need to accomplish this task?

First you’ll need a few automated AEROSOL MACHINES. These machines are small, around half as large as a box of cigars, and they run on batteries which make them totally automatic.

Basically you just install batteries, place a can of METERED INSECTICIDE inside their neatly covered cabinet, turn them on and set them on a book shelf or countertop. The machine will then release a brief 1 second blast of pyrethrin aerosol on an hourly basis. This active is highly effective on flying insects like thrips and will kill them immediately.

Unfortunately pyrethrin doesn’t last long so within an  hour, it will be gone. But no worries. The machine will go off once an hour (by default) thus insuring there is a renewed and fresh amount of pyrethrin applied on an hourly basis. And since cans will last 30-40 days, you only need to replace the can once a month to insure you keep the treatment going strong and constantly renewed until the problem is gone.

Typically it will take 2-3 months to break the thrip life cycle. And you will need a machine in every room with a problem so most homes will require 3-5 machines. But since they require so little maintenance and because work so well,  aerosol machines are clearly the best way to proceed when it comes to solving tough pest problems like thrips.

Aerosol 2000: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-2000

Metered Air: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/purge-iii-6-25-oz

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!



I think I have bats in attic which is closed off except for a trap door I use to access. However, I also have 3 cats downstairs. Is there an electronic product that is safe and won’t affect my 3 cats?

Absolutely. First, understand that Ultra Sound Repellers don’t “hurt” any animal including the ones they target. Basically what they do is emit sounds in a frequency range that will either disturb, irritate or alert target nuisance animals. And once the target animal receives the sound, they will typically move away from the area where the sound is present.

Secondly, ultra sound has no penetrating power and will pretty much stay within the rooms boundary where applied. So if you set a unit out in the attic, the sound won’t be able to escape this space. That means its not likely you or your pets will even hear it. But even if they did, it won’t harm or bother them since they will be far off and removed from the direct sound and by the time the sound wave reaches them, it will barely detectable.

Now given the limits of ultra sound, its important that you deploy them in such a way so that all of the attic space will be covered (blanketed) by the sound to insure it will work. In other words, if you leave even a small area vulnerable, there is a good chance the bats will relocate to that area. And since ultra sound doesn’t penetrate or move around objects, if your attic has a lot of twists and turns, you will need 2-3 units to insure complete coverage.

As for which model to use; our TRANSONIC REPELLER will do the job as will the YARD GARD.

Transonic: http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/sound/usd-transonic-tx-pro

Yard Guard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/sound/usd-acbatt-yard-gard-49

More info on these and other bat repelling devices we carry can be seen in our article here:

Bats: http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/bats.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

Your article on cluster flies fits our problem exactly. Our problem has become as bad as you describe. Please send us information on all the products we need to try and eliminate them. Thank you.

If you review our CLUSTER FLY ARTICLE, you’ll see links to all the products designed for controlling this pest. The following is a summary of what our article lists.

Basically you’ll want to spray the outside of the structure with CYPERMETHRIN in the fall when cluster flies start looking for structures on which to hibernate.

Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

But if its already winter and you have them inside the home, you’ll want to do a few things to keep them manageable throughout this season.

First, you’ll want to apply ONSLAUGHT around window frames, moldings, sills etc. by “painting” it onto any surface where they’re active. Onslaught will last 6-12 months so one treatment will last a long time killing any that land on it. And since its odorless and dries clear, you won’t know its present once the application dries.

Onslaught: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/onslaught

Now if you suspect they are nesting in your attic or wall voids, dust these areas using DRIONE DUST.

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Drione lasts a year or more and when applied to voids it will kill and prevent cluster flies from nesting successfully.

Lastly, set up POWER TRAPS on any window where you see activity. These traps will do a great job of picking up any flies the treatments miss.

Powder Trap: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/fly/fly-powder-trap

More details on all these products and how to use them can be read in our article here:

Cluster Flies: http://bugspray.com/cluster-fly.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

I need a product that is safe for dogs that are under 10 pounds. I have tried just about everything and can’t get rid of them fully. Please help.

This is an easy one. If you review our ROACH CONTROL article, you’ll learn about a product we carry known as ROACH GEL. Basically all you need to do is place small dabs of it out where you see roach activity. This is typically in cabinets, around countertops, under the sink, in the pantry, etc. The roaches will quickly find the offering, feed and die. In most cases, within 2-4 weeks the problem will be gone and you’ll only need to renew the gel every 3 months to make sure the roaches don’t reappear.

Roach Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/maxforce-magnum-roach-gel-1-oz

The great thing about this product is that it cannot hurt mammals like people or pets – even if we eat some. But if you place it up above where the pets spend their time, in theory there is no need for them to have access to it anyway but in case they did, they can’t get hurt.

Roach Control: http://www.bugspray.com/article/germanroaches.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

I have seen bees swarming in my backyard. Live in Fernandina Beach, FL. Noticed coming from ground area. Think maybe cutter bees. Near base of a wooden fence covered with jasmine. Think they are feeding from my beauty berry…don’t know. Do not really want to kill..just make go away.

You have a couple of options that can help.

If you want to keep them off the plants you think they’re feeding upon, this can be done safely and without the need of killing them.

Simply spray down any plant you want to protect with NBS REPELLENT. This material mixes 5 oz per gallon of water and can be applied directly to any plant, tree or even the side of your home. NBS won’t kill anything. Made from essential oils, its just a repellent and insects like bees will stay off treated surfaces. Most commonly used as a paint or stain additive to repel insects, you can also mix it with water and use it as a spray too.

NBS Repellent: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz

Now if  you learn that they’re not actually nesting in the ground but are merely flying around the grass or other turf areas, you can also spray NBS  to chase them away.

Treatments will last 30 days and will basically repel any kind of flying insect from the treated areas.

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

Few weeks before: Roaches were moving in our kitchen and partially on our family room – Thought I saw a casino, a restaurant.. but..

Wife has been after me to take care of the problem. I kept putting it off. One night I want a midnight snack. Roaches beat me to it. All over my kitchen
counter and hiding under the cutting board. Bought cheap COMBAT traps. Didn’t do the job.

So I came in your store asking for a roach treatment. I was sold a bag with a packet and two vials. Following the directions, I filled our sprayer with the chemicals.

As soon as I started pumping to pressurize the sprayer, the liquid was coming out of the broken nozzle. I sighed. Time for a new one cuz I can’t find a new nozzle that fits it.

Bought a new one from Home Depot and transferred the contents to the new sprayer and pressurized it. Had to wait until my dog does his business at night and then go to his crate for the night.

I sprayed heavily under the counter, along the edges of the counter, between the counter and fridge, and under fridge, dishwasher, and between the fridge and wall and all edges on the kitchen floor and under stove and all over the under sink cabinet. I didn’t spray the counters yet. I also sprayed between the couch and wall and between the TV and wall the baseboards mostly.

Next morning, I got busy and forgot about the roaches for now. Lunch time came and I could see more roaches.. but they were all dead! All over the floor and counter and sink. Cleaned up and buried them in the trash (ha, ha). That night, I ran a walk through – no sign of roaches! Next night I repeated the procedure. No more roaches. Thank you.

Scott Steinbrink
Deaf Macintosh Guru

Hi – we need to get rid of pantry moths in our kitchen. What is the most effective product for that? Thanks.

If you review our PANTRY MOTH CONTROL article, you’ll learn what you need to do including what the best products are to apply, how to prepare, etc.

The first step is to clean out the pantry, cupboards and basically anywhere food is stored or where you have seen moth activity. Remember, any place you see flying adults, their young maggot worm like larvae or where you’ve found their pupating cocoons all need to be cleaned and made accessible for treatment.

Contaminated food items will need to be discarded as well. Anything you keep which you suspect might be infested, store it in a plastic bag to insure nothing can escape in case it has insects you don’t see. Now after a month of no activity, you can safely return any item to its regular location. At that point you’ll know its free and clear if no larvae or adults emerge by a month.

Next, you’ll need to treat all the cupboards, pantry space and basically any room with activity using PHANTOM AEROSOL. This product goes on dry and will last 3-4 weeks. During this time it will be killing any hatching larvae as well as any adults moving around the home which land on treated surfaces.

Lastly, you’ll need to set out MOTH TRAPS in the same areas. These will help by collecting foraging adults.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Moth Traps: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

Meal Moth Control: http://www.bugspray.com/indian_meal_moths.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

Have springtails coming out into a toilet bowl in bathroom 1 when flushing. 3 or 4 at a time. None in the tank. Cleaned bowl w/toilet bowl cleaner. No springtails emerged. Filled tank w/half vinegar n/half water, flushed, let it sit. 10 dead came out on next flush. Recently did minor plumbing rerouting of supply lines in bathroom 1. Never unmounted toilet. Did major rerouting of drains and supply lines in bathroom 2 on opposite side of wall from bathroom 1 but did not move or disturb drain lines for the toilets in bathrooms 1 and 2 which presumably share a common drain and vent. Did remove toilet in bathroom 2 as part of renovation. Remounted bathroom 2 toilet. No springtails in toilet in bathroom 2. They seem to be literally living in the flush holes under the lip of the toilet bowl. They never emerge anywhere else. The bowl also has a burnt type odor which was not there before. I cannot understand how they have gotten to where they are without going through either the trap water or the tank water. Your opinion is greatly appreciated. By the way, excellent info on your site. I’m a scientist and can never get enough detail. Thanks in advance for your help.

I have seen this happen many times. To best understand how it can develop, you need to understand how springtails migrate. And the best way to explain their migration is to think small. You see, 1-2 feet for a springtail is a long journey. So when they move, they move by covering small distances and establishing nests along the way.

And they only migrate when any one location isn’t large enough for the current population. This will cause some to move to a new “pocket” or nest. Now if the new pocket can only maintain 5-10 adults, some will move from there once that location hits this population. In some cases they’ll all move but many times some will stay behind. And it might only be a few which in turn can become the supply for future generations even though they’re existence is never observed.

And in a bathroom (as well as many other areas in the home), this pattern will play out over and over. So once they’re in the bathroom, they will migrate from “pocket” to pocket as needed. And the list of pocket nests I’ve seen over the years includes the following but is not limited to under the toilet where it mounts to the floor, under the bolt nut covers that hold the toilet to the floor, in the lip of the toilet where water comes out, in the water tank, in the water supply line that feeds the water tank, under the flip handle for flushing, under the on/off valve handle for the water supply of the toilet, in the drain line of any sink, tub or shower present, in all the fixtures of any sink, tub or shower present, in tile grout, under linoleum, in carpeting, in wall sockets, around medicine cabinets, etc.

Now how they get into the bathroom initially is usually via one of the following. First, one of the most common entry routes is via unused drain lines. Abandoned sinks or tubs are commonly used if the trap water in the elbow dries up. The exterior of any water pipe is another great way they can enter. Basically from below the bathroom they will walk up the exterior of any copper or pvc pipes  making their way to the most humid room they can find as they travel. This generally turns out to be a kitchen or bath.

Another great way they enter is “down” vent pipes. Remember, springtails commonly infest trees and vegetation. And any tree litter which makes its way onto your roof will commonly lead to some living on your roof. In most cases these populations live for years unnoticed. But I’ve seen where they will readily migrate down from the roof via vents and exhaust pipes which again, tend to lead to bathrooms and kitchens.

In summary, there are many ways they can get into any room of any house. But once they enter, they will commonly find and use the “best” location for any one pocket nest. And many times these locations turn out to be around the sink, tub, toilet or shower. So what you’re describing is nothing unusual and quite common for springtails to do. The good news is you’ve isolated the problem and with the right material, you can easily control them.

So what is the right material? The PT-221. Labeled for use down drains, if you do a thorough crack and crevice treatment in your bathroom, you should see instant results. Basically by treating every spot that might host a pocket nest, you can both kill and eliminate any opportunity for them to live in the room. Don’t forget to treat down every drain line too. As our article explains, springtails will commonly live just under the drain line cover feeding on all the micro organic matter which clings to the cover and the drain line. But a quick 1-2 second blast of PT-221 will take care of any using this area.

And of course, treating all the baseboards, cracks and crevices of the room will be needed too. But if you do the job right the first time, you should kill them all within 1-2 days and from there, the problem should be resolved!

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Springtails:  http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html

PT-221:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-221-l-17-5-oz

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

Will hister beetles feed on human skin?

Hister beetles will not feed on human skin. Now some people have been known to have a reaction to them if they land on your skin but this is probably due to something on the beetle that transfers to that person when it lands on them. You see, hister beetles tend to forage in some nasty places which commonly contain all kinds of contaminants (like animal feces). So if they land your skin, some of these agents can cause reactions which can resemble a bite.

And since hister beetles have biting mouth parts, they have been know to bite people. But they are most likely doing this as a reaction and not because they’re trying to feed.

The good news is hister beetles are easy to control. Generally found in the yard, they will readily target plants, grass and other landscaping as they forage for food (other insects). But a good treatment with CYONARA RTS will usually control any kind of infestation.

Cyonara RTS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

More information on this pest can be read online here:

Hister Beetles: http://bugspray.com/hister-beetle-control.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

http://bugspray.com

1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

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