Termites are a wood destroying insect that can cause a lot of damage to homes and basically anything made with wood. Termites are important in nature because they help recycle dead trees along with anything made with cellulose. But when they invade our homes and eat away at our house, a good termite control program must be instituted.
This short video (less than 60 seconds long) shows a massive Termite Swarm, not an average one but note the way they all look the same and how they fly. Overall termite swarmers are not great flyers, they mostly futter and one of the ways you can tell its termites and not gnats, flying ants or some other flying pest:
DO IT YOURSELF TERMITE CONTROL ^
At this time there are many options for doing a termite treatment inside and around the home. And though termite treatments used to be something that one would hire a service company to perform, the products being used are a lot easier to handle and apply. So if you’re a do-it-yourselfer and want to save a lot of money by doing your own termite treatment, we can help.
WHAT TERMITE CHEMICAL IS BEST? ^
First you’ll need to decide what type of product to use. In general, termiticides fall into one of two groups. Repellent and non-repellent.
Repellent products tend to last longer. They will kill insects that travel through the treatment but in most cases, they “repel” insects.
Non-repellents are not detectable by insects. The goal of a non-repellent is to get enough of the active colony exposed to the chemical which in turn can kill the nest. This approach is effective for insects which live in communities like ants, termites and bedbugs.
And then there are bait stations and “local” treatments for infested wood.
But what’s the best treatment? And which chemicals are the “best” to use? The answer depends on which company you ask. In our opinion, they all can work when used properly. At least that’s what our hands on experience shows. And the goal of this article is to share some of that information and experience so you too can decide what will work best for your property.
BEST REPELLENT TERMITE CHEMICAL ^
If you want to treat around a structure before you have any sign of termites, use MAXXTHOR EC. Termites will readily detect it and stay away from where its been applied. Mix 1 quart of concentrate with 100 gallons of water (.32 oz per gallon of water) and apply this mixture to a small trench you’ll need to dig around the homes foundation. Plan on using 4 gallons of mixed product per 10 linear feet.
The label allows for a variable rate of coverage but in general, 1 quart of concentrate mixed at this rate can protect any home which has up to 250 linear feet of foundation to treat if you apply 4 gallons for every 10 feet of trench.
Treatments will last 5-10 years and can be renewed if termites are found active or if the soil is disrupted.
NON REPELLENT TERMITE SPRAY ^
The “newer” products for termite treatments include actives which are very differently. Instead of having to apply 50+ gallons to get a good barrier in place, these newer compounds rely on a “stealthy” approach. This means you can achieve success with very little chemical because the treatment is essentially non-detectable by foraging termites.
These actives are the better choice to use if you have active termites because they will assuredly walk through it. This insures they’ll be exposed and “share” the treatment with the rest of the colony. Conversely, the use of a repellent like Maxxthor EC may only chase them elsewhere and get rid of them for good. So if you have an active infestation, use a non repellent to insure the problem is handled.
The original and still best option for use around the home is PROTHOR SC. Mix 1 jug per 50 gallons of water (.5 oz per gallon of water) and apply 5 gallons to every 12.5 linear feet. At this rate 1 jug will make 50 gallons of finished product and will be able to treat 125 linear feet. Treatments will last 3-5 years making Prothor a cost effective option for any structure.
TERMITE BAIT STATIONS ^
Another option commonly used by many professionals today are TERMITE BAIT STATIONS. These offer a very different mode of control in that they’re not a spray but instead a feeding station where termites will go to eat. These stations can be placed anywhere in the yard around the home and can be used as a way to “monitor” termite activity on your property. Treating around the home with a repellent or non repellent is still suggested and should be done. But knowing there are termites in the yard is helpful and for this reason, using Termite Bait stations in some areas is a good tool for detecting early activity.
Once in place, you’ll want to inspect these stations every 2-3 months during the warm season to see if there is any activity. And once active termites are found, you’ll want to bait the station with an active BAIT CARTRIDGE. This cartridge contains a slow working active (another non repellent) that will then infiltrate the colony and eventually kill it.
HOW TO TREAT TERMITES IN WOOD ^
For termites discovered in floor joists, sill plate, fences or some other area above ground, spray all galleries with FS MP AEROSOL. This oil based formulation will kill termites quickly and “permeate” through the wood enabling it to reach far beyond the galleries you spray. FS MP will cover up to 100 linear feet per can and one application will last 5-10 years.
IN SUMMARY ^
Termites are a major pest here in the United States and are important to the natural balance and “recycling” of cellulose products in our environment. But once in the home they will cause costly damage. Considered a “latent” pest, its important to treat around any structure suspected of termite activity to insure there isn’t an ongoing problem or lingering infestation.
Need help calculating how much chemical you need to treat your home? Give us a call or send us an email anytime and we’ll try to assist.
CONTACT US ^
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HELLO GUYS. I APPRECIATE YOUR WEB SITE. I DON’T KNOW IF THIS PEST IS A TERMITE ARE NOT. THEY ARE LIKE SMALL MOTHS AND THEY CONGREGATE ON THE CEILING. I SOMETIMES FIND SMALL LAVA LIKE CREATURES. THEY FLY VERY SLOW AND I FIND VERY FEW ALL OVER THE HOUSE WITH THE HIGHER CONCENTRATION FOUND IN THE GARAGE. PLEASE ADVISE.
Tech Support says
Sounds a lot like some kind MEAL MOTH. They do fly slow, kind o flutter, and tend to land on the walls and ceiling when foraging. They live in grass seed, bird seed, pet food and pantries. You can read up on them here:
Pantry Moths: https://bugspray.com/pantry-moths.html
Give us a call toll free if you still have questions. Our number is 1-800-877-7290.
I was wondering if your products (if yes, which ones) can be effective on treating a wood beam that was already attacked by termites (the beam has one hot spot!)
Tech Support says
For wood that’s above ground and reachable, use Borathor. It will penetrate unfinished wood and penetrate deep making it ideal for wood destroying organisms like powderpost beetles and termites. Borathor is odorless and treatments done inside a structure can last 5-10 years no problem. Outside applications will last 3-5 years so even when exposed to the elements, it can do the job.
And since Borathor is odorless, it can be used just about anywhere in the home for long term control on wood which is subject to wood rot, moisture and insect attacks.
Am I looking at a springtails or termites? I have minuscule blond colored dirt colored things that look like dirt specs but hop like fleas in my bathroom sink…I also have a bay window in the living room that leaked at one point and the window seat there sometimes has 20-30 small bod, round bodied winged black bugs (usually already dead) bugs…these I have also seen in other windows of the home like patio door and they flit or fly about in small spurts—they do not hop. My yard is always damp 2-3 days longer than everyone elses after rain or snow melt because it is a lower lying property that likely needs drain tiles at some point. The home is 14 years old and I bought it 3 years ago. The window bugs can be seen anytime. The bathroom sink bugs seem to appear when it is dark or at night. When I turn on the light at night or go into the bath in the mornings there are usually 3-7 of these things which I know are not fleas although they do hop. I live on a slab and there is a bathroom drain trap outside the home outside a bedroom joining to the bathroom. Please help!
Tech Support says
No doubt the bugs you’re finding in your sinks are springtails. I suggest you get some of the PT221 listed in our springtail article and get the sinks treated ASAP. This should provide immediate results and its very easy to do.
Next, you’ll need to treat the outside using some Bifen Granules and Cyonara RTS. These are also listed in our springtail article. This treatment will help control all the springtails no doubt nesting in the ground around the home (along with many other pests).
As for the bugs you’re finding in your windows; how frequently do you see them? 1-2 a year or more frequently? And can you email us some pictures of these insects?
No doubt it could be termites but there are many other pests that resemble what you described so it’s just not possible for us to know for sure unless you provide more information and ideally, some pictures.
Here are links to these items mentioned above in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
Bifen Granules: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb
Cyonara RTS: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts
And here is a link to our Springtail article:
I’ve found termites coming out of my exhaust fans in both bathrooms last night. How do I treat a shingled roof?
Tech Support says
First and foremost, all kinds of termites send out what we call “swarmers” and these can be seen in unusual areas such as vents, light fixtures, etc. But where you see them is not the deciding factor as to where you will have to treat. For that we’ll need more information.
And the “more information” we’ll need is what kind of termites you have active. Dry wood termites live above ground and will require a direct application to their nest. Subterranean termites live in the soil and will require treatments to the dirt. That means regardless of where you’re seeing them, the treatment method will depend first on the species.
So for now, find out what they are. This can be done by bringing some samples to any local pest control company that does termite work. They should be able to look at your sample and know quickly what they are. Once you find this out, contact us again and we should be able to further help if you want to treat the problem yourself.
Hi, thanks for your site and videos.
I found a dry-wood termite infestation on my floor (through a pile of recurring pellets). I put orange oil in the tiny hole and it stopped. However, I am sure there are more in the wall below. That wall is “finished” but my guess is that they’re in the unexposed studs. What do you suggest product-wise and approach-wise to eviscerating them? Must I open the wall? It’s painted drywall.
Thanks a lot!
Tech Support says
Drywood termites are different from the subterranean species discussed above. Drywoods live their lives above ground, typically hidden in a wall void or piece of furniture, and require a direct treatment to knock them out.
Since “orange” oil is more of a repellent and not a traditional pesticide, I would refrain from using it anymore. All it will do is chase them deeper into the void making a successful treatment harder to achieve.
But two products that work well on any kind of hidden pest like drywood termites is Premise Foam and Borathor.
For large open areas like attic decking, rafters and crawl spaces, Borathor is well suited. So if this wall you’re talking about is directly below an attic, getting up into the attic space to inspect the area would be smart. And if you locate termites in that space too, treating all exposed wood with Borathor would protect it many years to come. Basically the Borathor would absorb into the wood and anything which tries to feed on the wood in the future would die.
Since Borathor is not well suited for wall voids, I believe Premise Foam is what you’ll need. To treat the wall void with the foam, you’ll first need to drill small holes above the area where you see activity. These holes should be 1/4″ and spaced 1-2 feet apart.
Use the included injector tips that come with the Premise to pump the foam into the holes. Premise uses a non-repellent active so termites won’t know its a chemical. They’ll readily walk over the treatment picking up a lethal dose which will kill them a few days following the treatment.
Premise will last several years when applied in a hidden space in the wall and you should try treat as much of the immediate area as possible to ensure you get thorough coverage. But since Premise won’t spook them, as long as you get one main site where they’re active you should kill all nests once enough crawl through the treatment.
Now if by chance you are keen on opening up the wall to see what’s happening inside, treating with Borathor will become the best option but there is a good chance you can avoid all the work by using the Premise.
Give us a call if you need further help and refer to our Drywood Termite article for more information on this pest:
Drywood Termites: https://bugspray.com/drywood-termite-control.html