Wood destroying beetles go by many names including wood worms, furniture beetles, wood beetles, powder post beetles, wood weevils furniture borers just to name a few. The good news is they can be controlled using our products.
This video explains how you can treat using our BORATHOR, JECTA GEL or FS MP AEROSOL and is designed to educate you on how to proceed. Links for ordering are below the video.
As detailed in our video, the Borathor below is easiest way to treat large areas but can only be applied to wood which is “raw” and able to absorb water. If you have small finished pieces like a statue or furniture, the FS MP Aerosol might be your best option.
John says
I just installed a mantel over the fireplace in my new home. I got the mantel from a sawmill. I am pretty sure it was not kiln dried, but the wood was very, very dry. Pine wood, white pine, I think.
There are wood channels and holes visible on the outside of the wood, so at one time there were wood worms of some type. There was also a sawdust type deposit in some of the channels on the surface of the wood. I cleaned this sawdust like material away, stained the wood, and used one coat of polyurethane. I have since had the mantel mounted onto composite board over my fireplace. It is surrounded by man-made stone and mortar, so it would be difficult to move. The mantel is about 6 feet long and 3 1/2 inches thick (and 11 inches wide). There are also 2 corbels (supports for the mantel) made of the same wood.
First, is there any way to tell if the wood piece has worms of any type? It must have had at some time.
I have a left over piece of the wood that I did not use. Can I use that piece to discover if there is an active infestation in the wood? Thanks for your help! …John
Tech Support says
@John: What you’re describing sounds a lot like pine bark beetles or some kind of a bark beetle. These typically infest live, growing trees and won’t survive long once the wood is cured, kiln dried and “dead” for a year or so. Galleries from them typically exist just under the bark and leave the channels and deposits you described. You’ll see these a lot in wood piles too. But these species only fare well in live wood or wood that is moist and full of fungus.
So for now, I wouldn’t fret. My bet is the wood contains nothing still active. But for future reference, it would have been best if you had treated with the Borathor listed above. This would have been easy to do – especially since the wood was so dry – and it would have knocked any current activity out so there would be no doubt. Additionally, it would have protected the wood from future infestations because treatments applied to wood inside the home can last for many, many years.
As for the piece you have left over; cutting it up to inspect for live activity won’t help much because even if you did find something, it would not mean the mantel has the same thing happening. So for now, there isn’t much you can do but watch and wait. If you start to notice exit holes, sawdust, fine talc powder or any other activity, you’ll need to take some action.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Cathy says
I purchased a home made breadboard at an estate sale. Very primitive and thick. On the sides there are small holes. Can I treat with something safe or are these bugs most likely gone? I won’t be using for chopping on, but only display.
Thank-You! Cathy
Tech Support says
@Cathy: You’ve got a couple of options here that should do the job and be plenty safe for the piece. The first is to apply FS MP Aerosol. I use this product a lot in my home because I mostly have hardwood floors and FS MP is well suited for the job because it will “penetrate” any wood treated reaching the developing stages. For a fast fix that works where applied, this is the best option.
FS MP: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/fs-mp-insecticide-15-oz-aerosol
dan says
We have just faced our existing cabs and used wormy butternut for trim, finished with poly. Do you have any suggestions for me? Dan
Tech Support says
@dan: If all sides are finished (which I suspect they are), then you’ll either have to remove the finish or treat them in their current state by drilling “port” holes for treatment.
The ideal product in all situations is Borathor but as explained in our article above, it will only work when applied to unfinished wood. So if you have one side that’s unfinished, you could use it effectively on that side.
But if all sides are sealed with poly and you don’t want to remove the finish, consider either FS MP Aerosol or Jecta Gel. The FS MP is the only option that will kill all stages AND the hole needed to get it applied only needs to be 7/64th of an inch compared to 3/8th” with the Jecta Gel. Plan on drilling every 4″ and go as deep as the wood is long. Be sure to angle the holes down and after the treatment absorbs, you can seal them so that cosmetically any sign of the treatment could be erased.
Here is a link to this item in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
FS MP: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/fs-mp-insecticide-15-oz-aerosol
Now if by chance you have unfinished sections of wood that can take a direct application, then consider the Borathor seen here:
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Pete says
We just noticed that our center beam in our garage has several holes that are less than 1/2″ across and rough on the edges. They only go about 1/8-1/4″ deep and have a smaller indentation in the center. Across the entire beam there are approximately 30-40 holes. It appears that they are common on that part of the beam that has been cut away as in a unfinished low quality timber. It also appears to have mold or other fungus staining the wood, which at first appeared to be pitch stains. This is the only beam that appears to have this damage. Any ideas on ID and how we should proceed?
Tech Support says
There are a couple of things you can do. First, I’m assuming you believe these are new holes and not something that’s been there for many years and only now has been discovered. Second, based on what you’re describing, it would sound as though whatever did this damage never got too deep or ever really “finished” what they started. This commonly happens with insects that are drilling looking to make a nest but after getting started discover the wood is either too tough to chew through or has a bad taste they don’t like.
So what insect or animal is causing this? There is no way we can tell for sure with such limited information. But I would guess some kind of boring beetle or carpenter bee. You can read up more on Carpenter Bees here:
Carpenter Bee Control: https://bugspray.com/article/carpenterbee
These bees will get very active this time of year and I’ve seen where they will many times find a piece they think they want to use but after drilling a bit decide they don’t like it and start anew just a few inches away hoping their new effort will prove to be over more fertile ground. I’ve also seen many types of long horn beetles do this to wood so there are a few possible insects that might be causing the damage.
Now if in fact there is something boring into the wood, there are two products that can be painted or sprayed over the wood to stop them. The organic option would be the NBS:
NBS Repellent: https://bugspray.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz
It can even be mixed with paint or stain and when used this way, will provide long term control by stopping anything from boring like you’ve described. As you’ll learn in our Carpenter Bee Control article, painting wood is one of the easier ways to help prevent new holes from being drilled and if you choose to go this route, the NBS should be added to your choice of finish so you’ll have a “dual” repellent in place.
The other spray that can be applied is Maxxthor EC. Highly repellent to insects, it will no doubt chase away any insect that wants to bore into this beam. Treatments would last many months as long as the wood is protected from direct weathering which I assume is the case.
Maxxthor EC: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/maxxthor-ec
Lastly, neither product will stop the mold or fungi you described and in general, this is not good. In fact many times mold or fungus will attract insects and could very well be why they’ve targeted this piece in the first place. If you think the fungus is only on the surface of the wood, the Borathor WP would be a good material to apply.
Borathor WP: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/wettable-powder/borathor-wp
It would kill the mold and could very well deter future drilling. But since it doesn’t penetrate, the Borathor would be best suited since it can get deep into the wood which many times is needed when it comes to fungus, algae and mold control:
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Hope this helps!
Jonnie says
I have two pieces of furniture that I purchased within 2 years. They both have small boring holes in groups in them. I live in the city. I have no idea what kind of insect that is eating my furniture but I do know that my house has very small bugs flying in my home. I treated my house last year for fleas because of my pets. I thought that it would get rid of the flying insects but it didn’t. I also notice that I only see them when the temperature is warm.
Tech Support says
If you read the article above, you’ll learn that wood beetles will in fact leave wood by drilling small exit holes. There will usually be some talc like powder where they emerge so if you’re finding the powder and new holes on a regular basis, no doubt this is what you have happening.
Also in the article we explain that the emerging adults can fly but that they won’t drill new holes in the wood where they emerge. Instead they will often try to “reuse” those same holes. So the first step is to stop that from happening by treating all the exposed holes you can find with FS MP Aerosol.
FS MP is oil based and does a good job of “spreading” once applied. And it can kill all stages. This way you will control any nearby larvae or pupae and stop any more adults from emerging. FS MP is the best “easy” treatment option that works and well suited for small, localized problems.
FS MP: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/fs-mp-insecticide-15-oz-aerosol
Now if you continue to see new holes appearing all the time and they don’t slow down meaning that you keep seeing more and more, I’d recommend doing a more thorough treatment by drilling holes as detailed above. And if there is any chance of getting the wood treated with Borathor (this would require the finish being removed), then go for that option too.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Jacob says
Hello,
Thank you for all the useful information you have provided. I absolutely have both a mold and beetle problem in my subfloor/crawl space.
I have several questions. You site mentioned that Borathor is ordorless but I need to use the Borathor with moldcare. What type of odor should I expect?
I am concerned with safety and exposure to my family and pets. I sprayed an insect repellent down there before and the smell came right up through the house.
Is Borathor with moldcare fogable?
Thank you.
Tech Support says
First, Borathor with Moldcare is odorless to me so I’d say it’s very close to regular Borathor. You might be able to detect a slight smell while it’s in it’s container but once mixed with water, the smell is barely detectable and once applied, pretty much near “zero” smell. You see, smell relies on the volatility of something. What this means is smell is related to the ability of the objects molecules to get air borne. Perfume is very aromatic because it’s molecules are designed to get air borne. But with most pesticides, volatility takes away from the product and causes it to not last as long as it could if it was to stay where you spray it. And todays products have very low if any volatility. This means in general they tend to have less if any odor. This helps them last longer too so products like Borathor tend to stay where we apply them.
Now bug repellents are exactly the opposite. They’re designed to repel insects so they need to get into the air and by doing so, affect the space around you (where they were applied) so what you experienced with the repellent you sprayed is no surprise. In fact it sounds like it was working like it should. And most bug repellents will have a strong odor (which is why I don’t use them for me or my family) so there is no surprise you smelled some upstairs. Now if you were to spray Borathor down there, the odor will naturally be much less if anything because again, by design, the product is made to soak into the wood and not up and away like a repellent.
Worth mentioning is that if there is a big moisture problem down the space, you should get some air circulating. I recommend looking at our Mold Control article where you can see several “vent” type products that can help move air around and in turn, help to keep the area dry. It sounds like you need some of these installed (ie: Temp Vents or Power Vents).
Here are links to these items in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Temp Vents: https://bugspray.com/equipment/temp-vents/temp-vent-brown
Power Vent: https://bugspray.com/equipment/temp-vents/temp-vent-powered-brown
Missy says
We have a very nice armoire we stored on our back patio for about a year and a half, waiting for me to paint and put inside our house. I didn’t intend on leaving it outside for so long but nevertheless, I did. Yesterday, we pulled it out and spray primed the entire piece, inside and out. I then noticed a bunch of tiny holes on the outside and inside of the doors. I’m freaking out now that it could be infested with beetles or termites. I didn’t notice any sawdust piles but we wiped it all down since it was dusty from being outside. I need this armoire, it’s a very nice piece. We just bought some termite foam spray and sprayed it a little. It went through the holes and came out the other side of the door. How worried should I be about an infestation? I’m just sick over it.
Thanks,
Missy
Tech Support says
I’m not sure how worried you should be but I do know there is no need to be sick over the situation. What also makes sense is that you take a proactive stance to eliminate any chance of a problem being “buried” under the finish of paint or stain. To do this you should read our article above where you’ll learn about Borathor.
Borathor is a great product in that it will penetrate unfinished wood through and through making it impossible for wood destroying insects to live within the treated area. For this reason it’s one of the best treatment options available to both eliminate and protect wood from any destructive pest. And based on the details you provided in your message, it would be smart to treat this armoire now, before it’s finished and untreatable, to insure you don’t have anything currently active in the wood and to protect it from future activity.
To treat you’ll probably have to remove most of the primer you’ve already applied but as explained above, you’ll need full access to unfinished wood for the Borathor to properly penetrate. Once exposed, give the exposed surfaces a good coat or two of the mixed Borathor to take care of any developing problem. Once allowed to cure, the armoire can be finished as you wish and safely brought inside the home without concern that any pest might spread to other wood in the home.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Aila Erman says
I have used a primitive table in my NC mtn home for 40 years w/o any sign of boring insects. Two years ago, I had a kitchen cabinet made using just the 100+ yr old table top boards, using new ambrosia poplar or maple wood sawn a few years ago, from which to make the body of the cabinet . Last summer, I found 1/16″ holes in the top of the old cabinet top boards. Fine wood sawdust was below. The top of these old boards is now polyurethaned, but I don’t know if what is now the bottom side was ever finished or not….in its former life as a farmhouse kitchen table…
Questions: Is the top hole I can see, the entry hole, since the underside with the wood dust is the exit hole? And since there are a lot of these holes, would they suffice partially as Borathor entry holes….providing additional holes were drilled as needed…where there was more than 12″ from existing borer holes? Could there have been larvae in the ambrosia wood that has now infected my old table top boards? I also found new borer holes in an old rhododendron root settee, in an adjoining room. Are these events related? The settee has been totally painted and indoors since 1973.
Tech Support says
Here are some answers to your questions above….
The holes you see are all exit holes. As explained in our article above, eggs are laid on wood and the hatching larvae feed creating tunnels. Sometimes these tunnels will become noticeable on the surface or underside of the infested wood and would look like what you’re describing. But the hatching pupae also drill holes that will look the same when they emerge as adults. So if in fact you have powderpost beetles, what you’re seeing is from either larvae eating or adults leaving but neither would be “entry” holes.
Now can these holes be used as an entry point for more adults to come and lay eggs? Yes. And this is why treating them with the FS MP listed above would be smart. And of course, if the bottom side is unfinished, treating it with Borathor alone would be the best way to treat.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
FS MP: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/fs-mp-insecticide-15-oz-aerosol
Lastly, the ambrosia most definitely could have been infected and been involved with the spreading problem you’re now experiencing but it’s not possible to know for sure. And yes, the holes seen in your settee could very well be related to all this activity.
lozzy c says
I’ve been given a 300 year old piece of oak from a cottage which has been rebuilt and left in the rain and mud for the last few years. I’ve removed all the rot and fungi growing on it and have got the wood looking rather nice. There was some woodworm which I’ve sanded out I think. What product should I use to treat it from anything reappearing before I use it in my cottage?
Tech Support says
Definitely the Borathor listed in the article. It will penetrate the wood through and through and in the process eliminate any fungus and/or insects. Remember, what you “cleaned” off the wood fungi wise is just a symptom of the fungus and removing it won’t kill it. Only an agent like that which is in Borathor can kill fungi so in this case, treating it thoroughly would enable you to eliminate all immediate threats and the best treatment option for sure.
Here is a link to this item in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Rollergirl1111 says
I just purchased an antique cherry bed from a dealer in Indiana. Upon uncrating the furniture, we have found several areas of tiny holes. Each section is roughly the size of a silver dollar and holds several dozen tiny holes. I did not see any active dust and the holes are blackish in appearance and look like they may be old. However, we are very concerned about putting the bed into use until we are certain there is no active infestation. What should I do?
Tech Support says
Contact the seller and see what they suggest. I would say that given the circumstances, you should be able to persuade them to let you keep the piece for a longer than normal time with the option to return it should anything start to emerge. So say normally if they extend a 1 year warranty, ask to extend it to two years. This way if anything starts drilling exit holes in the next two years, you’ll have the option of bringing it back.
Now if you read the article above, you’ll learn it can take a year or more for any activity to be noticeable so having the extra time to return it would be nice. Conversely, if they’re not willing to work with you and you’re uncomfortable keeping it, returning it may be your only option.
Lastly, if the piece has untreated sides which would readily accept a treatment of Borathor, treating it now would insure nothing could live in it and allow you to keep the piece without concern or worry. No doubt the treatment would be easy to do if the piece has enough areas unfinished. I’ve seen in several instances where sellers are willing to absorb the cost of the product in order to preserve the sale of the their piece. So in this case, if you can treat the piece yourself, maybe they’ll fit the bill for the Borathor.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Alison Mathews says
My husband and I bought an 85yr old house on 1 acre completely surrounded by agricultural fields. Tomatoes, corn, wheat, etc. are some of the common crops. We tore the house down to foundation and rebuilt it. However, some of the framing was left in place. We started noticing small holes in corners of base boards and window sills first and next we saw tiny holes and lines on the tops of our cherry kitchen cabinet doors and drawers. Almost overnight our chairs, tables, mahogany doors (interior and entry) started to show extreme wear, especially along edges of everything and small holes or tracks have also appeared. Now every wood, particle board and even sheet rock walls are showing the same problem. We are losing our minds. We have spent so much money trying to stop the problem. I have seen numerous fungus gnats inside (we have no indoor plants, no fruits or veggies out) I also see lots of tiny black beetles. Is this a problem that can be solved or reduced? Thank you.
Tech Support says
First, any pest problem can be controlled if you know what the pest is and then proceed to treat it with proven methods and products. But the key here is to identify what the pest is.
Second, you mention you’ve “spent so much money trying to stop the problem” which is confusing. If you meant you hired a pest control service, then it would be most likely that the house would be under some kind of treatment warranty and if this is true and the problem is still active, clearly you need to get the company your hired out so they can treat again.
Now if you mean that you have been doing some kind of treating, it would be best if you call us toll free so we can find out just what you’ve done, what products you’ve used, etc. This way we can best assess the problem and make suggestions on how to proceed from there. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290.
In summary, it would appear you have at least one kind of pest active in the home but there is a solid chance you have several. We’ll be able to better advise if you call because there is a lot more information we’ll need before we can recommend just what you should do.
Eden says
Our kitchen cabinets are oak. Under the sink, I keep finding the little black pellets that look like Palmetto bug waste and what appears to be bits of wood or pressboard perhaps. I can’t tell…because where it is coming from. It seems to be in the two ends of the cabinet Left and Right next to where the doors are attached. This is the only cabinet in the kitchen with any of this in it. I do not see any powder-like piles that I have seen years ago from antique furniture with powder post beetles in it.
I’ve cleaned it up and it returns. Could it be from Palmetto bugs? We do see them periodically, in the house and we live in Central Florida.
What do you think we might do?
Tech Support says
Not surprisingly, it’s easy to mistake roach droppings for mouse droppings or for some type of wood destroying insect droppings. Without being able to see the droppings under a microscope, it’s tough for me to say exactly what you might have. However, there is an important clue you provided regarding the location of where the droppings are being found.
In general, if you have roaches or mice, droppings will be found all over the area. In other words, they will appear in the cabinet scattered around but even outside the cabinet from time to time as both roaches and mice will forage out in the open. And when they forage out into the open, they’ll no doubt leave a mess where they traverse.
However, termites or boring insects which are relocating their fecal pellets will do so at precise locations. These are known as “dump sites” and if the droppings are all close to one another (like within a square area of 12″ x 12″), then it’s safe to say you have some kind of an wood destroying insect which is “pushing out” these fecal pellets from a gallery (tunnel drilled through wood) somewhere above where the droppings are being found.
So based on this information, I would say to start with some FS MP aerosol. This is an oil based, penetrating treatment that would control any pest it might be including roaches, pantry pests and wood destroying insects. I would treat the two areas directly making sure to get the treatment directed into any crack, crevice, hole or seam I could find. And I would focus my attention to the areas above where the pellets are being found. I’m sure there is some kind of “nest” or hole above where these pellets are falling so be sure to look “up” in the cabinet for any more clues on just where they might be originating from.
With a thorough treatment, there is a good chance some of the aerosol will flow into the exit holes being used to relocate the droppings. And if that happens, FS MP should kill some of the active pests which most likely will be found. So whether you have roaches or some kind of wood destroying insect, this treatment would at the very least help and with any luck, provide you with enough evidence so you could do a more thorough treatment that gets to the root of the issue. This would be done by using another product depending on what is found after these initial treatments.
FS MP: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/fs-mp-insecticide-15-oz-aerosol
Now if you are able to locate a section of wood which has what appears to be little holes drilled in it, be sure to treat it with the FS MP as our videos above explain. FS MP is the best option for directly treatment wood and if you are able to find exit holes, they would be the main place to “start”.
Lastly, I would say to do a thorough inspection of all the cabinets in the home to make sure there isn’t anything else like this happening elsewhere. If the problem is only in the one location, the FS MP should do the job. But if you start noticing more of this evidence in other areas of the home, you should consider doing a more extensive treatment which would involve the use of some Borathor. These are wood penetrating agents which may be needed if the infestation is extensive.
Here are links to these items in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Denise says
We recently found holes in several pieces of word furniture…mostly pine. We had called an exterminator who wasn’t convinced they were furniture eating beetles. As the weeks went on, my husband and I noticed more holes and more furniture having holes in them. Panicked by the situation, we went to Lowes and bought two different products to try and treat this problem. We moved all the furniture to a small unfinished sunroom. We set off an fogger and then after several days we sprayed all the furniture with a topical spray called Bayer Advanced Home Pest Spray. We left for vacation for a week and when we came back, I noticed a dead bug on one of the pieces of furniture.
It does look like one of the species of furniture eating bugs, but I am not sure which one. I am afraid to move the furniture back into the house. I also don’t know if we should just destroy the furniture or strip and treat all pieces as described in your article. I now have 7 pieces of furniture that have these small holes and I am sick to my stomach thinking that our house is infested. I also don’t know if it is possible to identify the source. We moved into this home 2.5 years ago and since then have purchased different pieces that have all been infected now. Also, last fall, I purchased an antique couch and chair set from a consignment shop and wonder if they could have carried a bug. What would you do? I have wood flooring, wood doors and wood trim throughout the house. So this time, it doesn’t appear that these items have been infected, but I’m not sure if I would see them? How can you tell the difference between a bug that had bored out versus bored in?
Tech Support says
As explained in our article above, these beetles don’t “bore in”. In fact the infested wood has larvae (little worms) feeding around the clock and once they get their fill, they pupate and emerge as adults. And when they emerge is when they create the exit holes you’re only now seeing.
So what this means is that any furniture you find with exit holes is furniture which has activity that needs to be treated if you wish to save it.
Now you certainly could throw away any piece that has holes but obviously, this might prove costly. Alternatively, treating it with Borathor will both kill off the feeding larvae and make the wood “uneatable” for as long as you keep the furniture inside the home. This way anything you’d like to save and keep indefinitely you should treat because it’s the only way to make it safe from future problems.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
So if it was my furniture, I wouldn’t worry about where they might be. Instead, I’d take a proactive stance and treat the pieces that have exit holes because this will kill what’s active and enable me to keep it.
Now if you went ahead and treated above and beyond what shows activity well then good for you; this would in fact be a smart move because in the end, Borathor will protect whatever you want to safeguard from wood destroying insects. And since this problem appears to span across several different pieces, taking a little extra precaution by treating more than where you see them active would be a wise choice.
helen Bruzzone says
There is a small hole on our redwood bench. Redwood “sawdust” is coming out of the hole — more each day. Is this a termite or some sort of wood beetle? Please, can you recommend a solution?
Helen
Tech Support says
It could be some type of long horn beetle but my guess is most likely a carpenter bee.
Regardless what it is, if the hole can be seen, treatment is easy.
Simply inject FS MP into the hole (about a 3-5 second series of “light” squirts is all you’ll need) and let the hole sit open at least 1 day.
After the one day you can cap the hole to seal up the treatment.
Now it’s important that you DO NOT fill the hole with any kind of foam or caulking because if there are eggs in it, they won’t be able to move over the treatment when they hatch. Leaving the inside tunnels open but the exit capped insures the problem won’t spread. And side note; FS MP is the only option that can kill all stages of insects so even if there were eggs in the gallery, it would kill them. This is just one more reason why it would be the way to go.
FS MP: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/fs-mp-insecticide-15-oz-aerosol
Again, filling these holes with foam sealant will just make the problem worse so follow these guidelines and you’ll get it resolved the first time you try.
Scott says
About a month ago I purchased a new oak chopping board and have just found that it is infested with what I think is powder post beetles. The board has three small holes in it and we have found dust around it about 5 times in total – today we saw a beetle under the board by the hole and another one starting to come out an exit hole. We obviously caught the beetles early or I guess there would be more exit holes than three but should we be concerned that the infestation could have spread to more wooden items around the home? We’ve thrown away the chopping board but have wooden floors, tables and worktops so I’m concerned that the beetles might have moved on, am I right to be concerned? Is there anything we can do to stop the infestation spreading? Thanks for any help.
Tech Support says
Any time you have active beetles located in the home, treating exit holes is suggested as well as space spraying with Multi Purpose. This permethrin based, odorless spray is safe enough to use as needed and labeled for use as a space spray as well as for surfaces like furniture. And in this case, it would effectively take out pests like powderpost beetles. This way if you treat any room in the home where you think some might be active, you’ll kill them before they have a chance to mate and start laying eggs.
Multipurpose: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/multi-purpose-insect-killer-10-oz
Give us a call if you still have questions or concerns. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290.
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Jan Miller says
I have a brand new home with hickory, pre-finished wood flooring. I’ve noticed the small bore holes (and powdery frass around them) in 3 locations. What is the best treatment for assuring the beetles are killed so they don’t infest adjacent wood? From what I’ve read here, is FS MP the product to start with, using it in the bore holes and seams of the wood flooring around the affected areas?
Tech Support says
Jan,
It would be the way to start. Treatments with the FS MP would kill any developing stages in the treated tunnel as well as prevent any new eggs from being successful if they’ve hatched and started developing.
Unfortunately, this new flooring clearly has a problem and you will have to make some hard decisions on how to handle getting control of the problem. If you’re lucky, the treatments of the holes you’re finding will kill off any left AND the problem will be limited. This is actually quite common and so no need to panic just yet. But if you go 6+ months of finding new holes in an expanding range throughout the flooring, it would mean there is a extensive activity and would most likely require a much bigger treatment of the entire floor using Borathor. At that time you could consider having the floor replaced by who you bought it from. But even if they do put in new flooring, you’d be foolish not to treat it with Borathor first so you won’t have to go through this experience again.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Now I understand if you get the same wood installed that it comes “finished”. But if you do get new flooring, I strongly recommend you get it unfinished so you can treat it. This is the only way to insure it won’t have or develop another problem.
The second option would be to strip the finish off the floor, treat it with Borathor and then seal/finish it again.
Either option will fix the problem and make sure it doesn’t return. But for now, start with the FS MP and go from there.
Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.
Jonathan
Customer Care
https://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!