PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: Clear, odorless, molasses like material which mixes with water. Once mixed, it becomes like water. Apply it with a pump sprayer or a paint brush.
PRODUCT FEATURES: Treatments are odorless and long lasting. Allow the application to cure for 72 hours and by then the treated wood will show no sign anything was ever applied. In other words, there will be no discoloration or smell since Boracare is colorless and odor free. More importantly, treated wood can be cut, stained and used for any project safely with no inherent risk following the application.
Please note: If you intend on using a wood sealer over the treatment, plan on waiting at least 2 weeks following the application to ensure the wood is dry. Sealers like Thompson or varnish can “pull out” a range of resins, sap or solvents from the treatment which can then be visible in the finish. Paint or stain can be used within a week of being applied but sealants are best applied no sooner than 2 weeks.
Treatments will last many years. A treated deck exposed to rain and sun will be protected for 3-5 years. In the home, the treatment will be sheltered from the weather which will allow it to last indefinitely when used in attics, crawl spaces or wall voids.
TARGET PESTS: Powder post beetles, termites, carpenter ants, decay fungi, old house borers and basically any type of insect which wants to eat wood.
RATE OF APPLICATION: This depends on the thickness of the wood being treated. Mix one part Boracare to one part water and expect to get 400-1000 sq/ft protected depending on wood thickness. And if you have a moisture problem in the area you want to treat, consider using the BORACARE WITH MOLDCARE.
PRODUCT DOCUMENTS: SDS SHEET
$125.00 (455180) (4+ gal. $115.00 ea.)
Order online and save 5%
RELATED PRODUCTS: PAINT MIXER BORACARE w/MOLDCARE 2 GALLON FOAM INJECTOR D-FORCE AEROSOL TREATMENT JECTA GEL PUMP SPRAYER (good for Boracare applications) TURF MARK BLUE (BLUE DYE)
Supporting Video
Jack Mitch says
I have an early 1800’s log home and have seen small piles of wood dust that was described as post pine beetles by the pest control. There is no finish on the logs inside or out or applied water repellant. These are large square logs. How best can I treat these logs myself?
admin says
Jack,
No doubt Boracare would be your best option. I say this because logs like you’ve described are prone to getting infested with a wide range of wood destroying organisms. For this reason, a good application of Boracare will both control your current problem as well as prevent new infestations.
Give us a call or email if you need help determining how much Boracare you’ll need to apply. We’ll need to know how wide these logs are, the total “board feet” you need to treat, etc. Once we have that information, we should be able to make a reliable calculation.
Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray
http://www.bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290y
Glen Cothran says
I have a wood sided house in the mountains of Tennessee. Bumble bees/borer beetles are everywhere. I see holes and have seen them enter and leave the holes. The wood has a stain coating on it. What can I use to 1. Fill the holes to make it look better and 2. treat the house siding, decks and hand rails to keep them from coming back? The deck and hand rails have been painted with Bear deck sealant paint.
admin says
Glen,
You definitely don’t want to use Boracare for the bees. Boracare only works if it’s ingested (eaten) by target pests. Since carpenter bees don’t actually eat the wood, they won’t be affected by the treatment. But there is an easy fix and details can be found here:
Wood Bees: http://www.bugspray.com/article/carpenterbees.html
In the article above you’ll learn about two products you need to use. The first is Drione Dust. You need to squirt some into every hole you find which will both kill active bees and their eggs when they hatch in the coming months. Leave the holes open 1-2 days following the treatment and then cap them with corks. Whatever you do NOT fill the holes with silicone or wood filler. This will cause a myriad of other problems. But the corks can be pushed down flat and when stained, will look close to natural so in the end they’ll blend in fine for cosmetic reasons.
Drione: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
Hand Duster: https://bugspray.com/equipment/dusters/crusader
Dustick: https://bugspray.com/equipment/dusters/dustick
Corks: https://bugspray.com/equipment/equipment-plugs/cork-12
Next, spray all the siding, logs or other wood the bees are targeting with Cypermethrin. This product is highly repellent to bees and wasps and will stop them from drilling new nests. Typically you will have to use 2-4 gallons of mixed spray to get the entire home treated and in most cases, 1-2 treatments in the spring and 1-2 treatments in the fall will stop them from drilling.
Cypermethrin: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
As for the borer beetles; first things first. What I mean here is lets see if you still see activity from them following the Drione and Cypermethrin treatments. So get the carpenter bees treated and allow those applications to sit for 1-2 months and at that time, re evaluate and send us an update. At that time we should be able to further advise.
Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.
Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
Paul Marcotte says
I applied Boracare to two inch thick ash which had been air drying in a barn for three years. I decided to apply the solution with a paint brush which worked well. I would strongly suggest that the water that is added be as hot as you can get it from the tap. The mixture does pour like molasses and the hot water helps to provide a uniform mixture. I noticed today some powder post beetle activity still remained on one edge. I may have missed this area, but the remainder shows no sign of activity. I am confident by reapplying to the active area my problem will be solved. I would recommend this product.
Jonathan says
@Paul Marcotte: Paul, thanks for the great feedback. Based on what you treated, I believe you’ve got the wood protected and eventually, all activity will subside. But as our article explains, its not possible to kill developing pupae since they won’t eat. And when they hatch, they will exit the wood giving the impression there is a lingering problem. Unfortunately this activity will happen 50% of the time following any Boracare treatment. But it will usually end after a few weeks and since hatching eggs can’t feed without dying, the cycle will no doubt end. Now should you treat again? It won’t hurt. But don’t panic if you continue seeing a few exit holes. Its perfectly normal. We have more info posted in our article here:
http://bugspray.com/powderpost_beetles.html#post-treatment-beetle-exit-holes
Jonathan
U-Spray Bugspray
http://www.bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
TK says
I’m planning to use Bora-Care to spray on wood beams in the attic for termite prevention purpose. My questions:
1. Would Bora-Care be the appropriate product of choice?
2. What would be the best mixing ratio? 5 Bora-Care and 1 water(5:1)?
Thanks.
TK
Tech Support says
TK,
Boracare would be a great choice. Its odorless, penetrates wood through and through and will last for 5-10 years inside if not longer. As for mixture rates; use either equal amounts of water to Boracare or two parts water to one part Boracare. Not sure where you got 5:1 but that wouldn’t be possible given the consistency of Boracare. If you view the “mixing” video we posted on this page, you’ll see its very thick, much like molasses, and in that form cannot be applied properly which is why it requires warm to hot water when mixing.
We also recommend the 1:1 ratio when treating overhead beams. We have found its harder to get the treatment to stay on overhead wood so you have to use the mixed product sparingly as you go. This will take more time. Conversely, when treating deck planks, hard wood floors and basically anything “underneath” you when treating, the 2:1 ratio is fine because there won’t be waste.
Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.
Technical Support
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
TK says
Thanks for your quick response! The 5:1 mix ratio I got is from two sources:
1. http://nisuscorp.com/images/uploads/documents-specimen-labels/label_sds_boracare.pdf
In this document, the company recommended “Drywood Termites 1:1, 2:1 or 5:1 For remedial treatment apply the 1:1 or 2:1 by foam or by misting using a misting machine. Use the 5:1 dilution ratio for prevention.”
2. From a local Pest Control company: “RECOMMENDATION: Treat the interior attic framing materials with an E.P.A. registered termiticide (Bora-Care @ 5:1 Dilution) for preventative drywood termite control.
Please shed some light on this mix ratio as I’m confused. Thank you.
Tech Support says
TK,
The label link you provided is the one we have above; they’re one in the same and what we use for reference too. And though the 5:1 ratio is listed on said label, its rarely used. You see, that rate mostly applies when treating unfinished homes which are “framed”. During this stage, the wood is accessible from all sides so the Boracare can be mixed with more water and by doing so, the applicator can distribute the product more uniformly over all sides of the target lumber. This is no doubt the “best” way to use it but in general, this opportunity only applies when you have access to all sides of the wood. And that time is usually during construction of the home. The reasons for this are many; here’s a summary…
First, as explained above, the runoff when spraying overhead will be significant. So to minimize water issues below (specifically the walls and ceilings of the rooms under the attic), diluting the Boracare 1:1 or 2:1 is recommended and generally the best way to proceed. Now if the home was unfinished, runoff would not be a concern and if that’s the case here, my bad. I just assumed your home was finished but maybe its still under construction? If so, a 5:1 would be fine. And having access to 3-4 sides of all the rafters, decking and ceiling joists in the attic means the 5:1 ratio would be the way to proceed. I’ve done a few jobs like this but only during construction of the home and those times have been rare.
But if the home is finished, you’ll have limited access to the target wood. In other words, many of the sides will be covered or blocked. If that’s the case, using the more concentrated mixture is recommended. Now true, you could spray the same areas over and over to get the right amount applied. But the thinner the Boracare is mixed, the more likely it is to runoff and cause water issues below so why gamble? I guess if you don’t care about the areas below, this won’t be a concern and if that’s true, the 5:1 would be fine. But in my experience, 99% of the applications were made above finished homes and there was no way the homeowners wanted a mess below. In fact, we rarely use sprayers when treating attics to help minimize the water leak concern. Instead we’d paint or mist the Boracare; it proved to work more efficiently and in the long run, eliminated the “mess” potential.
Lastly, the amount of Boracare needed to treat “x” amount of lumber is fixed. So whether you use a 1:1, 2:1 or 5:1 ratio, you should still use the same amount of concentrate for any given piece of wood. The only advantage of the 5:1 is that its easier to use and more “thorough” when you can cover all sides of the target wood. And again, this generally only applies when treating open, unfinished structures.
But once the home is built out and the wood has limited access, using the 1:1 or 2:1 is generally the way to proceed.
Sorry for any confusion; no doubt the label is a bit cumbersome. But in the end, mixing the product with more water is an option and I don’t want to say you can’t use it this way; I’m just letting you know there won’t be any advantage applying that diluted if the home is built out and your only focus is the attic.
Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray
http://www.bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
TTK says
I have a rental house and an old post beam barn that is infested with powder post beetles and was wondering if I can fog Boracare with propane insect fogger or electric slinger type fogger due to area hard to get to.
Tech Support says
TTK,
Boracare can be “fogged” but it must be done with a cold mist blower that can handle water based formulations. We have one we rent for this which can be seen here:
Fogger Rental: https://bugspray.com/equipment/rental/fogging-machine-rental-2-weeks
You can also buy either of these models to do the job:
Mini Fogger: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/mini-mister
FM6309: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v
Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray
http://www.bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
Elaine Hobbs says
The product has seemed to be working. I really soaked a 3″ thick piece of old barnwood that had been made into a shelf in my fireplace. I misread the instructions thinking a 2:1 mix was 2 Boracare and 1 water when it should have been the other way around. It took 2 weeks to be dry enough and not sticky to install back in. My mistake! Wish I could buy this in a quart size instead of a gallon size.
mitch anderson says
I have a 100+ year old farmhouse with wood floors. It showed no signs of PPB until maybe 8 hears ago. I had 2 pest control companies come out 2 times each over the last 8 years and each time they said old infestation. They thought the PPB were under the re-finished floor and coming out now.
The holes and damage are getting, in my opinion, extensive along one wall. There is no doubt in my mi d that this is active, increasing, and the wood is badly deteriorating into powder.
Given that there are so many exit holes and now access to the wood beneath the surface to to the damage, can i saturate those areas with your product? Taking out the wood and replacing would be a big project. I am talking about a 10 foot area along a wall, maybe a foot or so into the room.
Thank you for feedback.
Tech Support says
@mitch anderson:
Mitch,
First, I’m surprised neither company recommended a treatment. Here’s why. In general, this pest is what we consider and call “latent” or hidden. And since they can cause so much damage, it makes no sense to “judge” whether or not sign is active. So to be safe, its generally accepted that treating should be done unless its known that a treatment was recently applied.
Second, treating would be easy and whether the wood is 1 year old or 100 years old, an infestation can develop as long as the wood is left unprotected.
Lastly, its important to realize that treating would stop new damage from happening but if what you’re finding is the result of old damage “deteriorating” to such a degree that its super noticeable, I’m afraid this trend will most likely continue. In other words, treating won’t make the wood look any better. So if you’re unhappy about how the wood looks, you’ll either have to repair it or replace it. But to get it protected, the Boracare above would be a great option as would the Jecta Gel.
Jecta Gel: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/gel/jecta-gel-10-oz
Cheers,
Jonathan
Tech Support
http://www.bugspray.com
770-985-9388
1-800-877-7290
PS: Are you signed up for our informative twice a month Pest Report Newsletter? More info here: https://bugspray.com/bugspray-pest-report
Mike Cooper says
We have some Japanese style Tatami mats – basically tightly woven straw – which are about 2″ thick. We are seeing exit holes and flying/crawling adults, as well as powder residue underneath, so pretty sure they are infested. Can these be treated with Boracare without damaging the mats(any more than the bugs already have) or is there another product which would be better?
What would the application rate be and is it better to spray, fog, or paint it on, since the surface which is essentially straw? The back of the mats are covered with a pvc sheet, but it has needle holes ever 2 inches where the mat is stitched to hold it together. Should we treat both sides, or just from the top and let it penetrate?
We also have some antique furniture and carvings, which is the likely original source of the beetles, as we had seen a few in the house before we got the mats, but the mats seem to be a great attraction, presumably because of the ease of entry. I read your article about treatment, so I am surmising that Boracare would be the answer for those too, and that they should be treated as well to prevent continued infestations.
Any advice shall be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Mike
Tech Support says
Mike,
Boracare would be the best option for this issue. As for “damaging” the matts; using Boracare would be no different than using water. So if you were to spray the matts with water and the water destroys them, so too would a treatment using Boracare. But if they can get wet from water and dry back to “normal”, then you should expect the same following a Boracare treatment.
As for the best way to use it; no doubt for matts or anything flat on the ground, spraying is usually best.
Lastly, treating all the furniture and carvings would be smart whether they show activity or not.
Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray
http://www.bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
PS: Are you signed up for our informative twice a month Pest Report Newsletter? More info here: https://bugspray.com/bugspray-pest-report
diana says
Hi,
We own a reclaimed barnwood table with a waxed finish. I have noticed several new exit holes with powder on the top as well as several on the barn beam legs. Will Boracare work on this since its a waxed finish? What is the best way to apply it on the table. I dont mind the appearance of the holes, but am very concerned that the table will be destroyed and/or the infestation will spread to other areas of the house. We also have white heart pine floors.
Tech Support says
Diana,
The rule to follow here is simple: pour a small amount of water on the table and if it gets absorbed by the wood, so too will a mixture of Borcare. But if the wood will not absorb the water, it won’t accept the treatment either.
Now if you can’t get the top side to absorb, try the bottom underside.
Lastly, if you still cannot get the wood to accept water, you will have to consider one of three options. The first is to not do any treatment (not a good option). The second is to remove the finish so the Boracare can absorb (this can probably be done by sanding the bottom side of the table top and/or hidden sections). The third option is to drill holes and inject them with Jecta Gel.
Jecta Gel: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/gel/jecta-gel-10-oz
I suppose another option is to discard the table but assuming you want to keep it, treating it would be the smart way to proceed to stave off the expansion of the issue with other wood in the home.
Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray
http://www.bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
Brent Montou says
This product (BORACARE) worked very well and mixes with water very easily with the use of a cordless drill and paint mixer. The table I was preparing is the base of a Cypress tree and is about 30″ tall; when I noticed the holes being drilled I purchased 1 gallon of Boracare and mixed 1 quart 1:1 and sprayed the top of the table and let that application dry then applied another treatment and noticed what seemed to be more activity and applied another. However after contacting the technician was informed that the activity I noticed was that of the beetles exiting or the hatchlings exiting and have not noticed any new activity. All is good. Now I am spraying the lumber I had milled and had to purchase another 4 gallons. $90-95 a gallon is very much worth the cost compared to the loss of beautiful lumber or having to deal with pests after installing cabinets or decorative wall in the home.
Jeff says
Thanks for hosting such an informative page. I’m planning on ripping the plaster and lath out of an old home and treating the studs and sheathing with bora-care. How long should I allow for dry time before installing fiberglass insulation?
Tech Support says
Jeff,
Ideally waiting 7 days would be good. Curing time is at least 72 hours as per the product label. But in our experience, the general rule is for wood that is really dry or subject to dry weather or storage will cure well in 3-4 days. But wood which is around a “damp” area can take longer. Since we don’t know where you are, if the home was subject to moisture issues, if its been raining by you, the temps by you etc., waiting a week would ensure enough time passes.
Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray
http://www.bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
Marianne says
I have a wood carving of animal purchased in Brazil, a size such that it can also function as a stool. I have noticed sawdust coming out of the feet which makes me think it has bugs. Would Boracare be a solution to this problem? I’m not sure what else I could do to diagnose the cause. Thanks!
Tech Support says
Marianne,
Borathor would be the better option but if the piece is small, FS MP Aerosol might be the easiest and most cost effective. Did you read up on it? If not, review this article for details. Without knowing the exact size of the piece, its hard to say. Also, is the piece finished? If so, Borathor might not be an option, just the FS MP.
Wood Borers: https://bugspray.com/wood-borer-treatment-for-my-cabinet
The Borathor can be seen here:
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Technical Support
800-877-7290
Marianne says
@Tech Support: Thanks for the feedback and information. The piece is relatively small – about 18 inches high and two feet long. It is painted but it’s not clear to me if there is varnish on it. Would you suggest the FS MP Aerosol in this case? Thanks again – I really appreciate the help!
Tech Support says
Marianne,
The FS MP is prob your best bet. Its super effective and efficient for small tasks. Just drill 1/4″ holes and since you can get these bits in 16-24″ lengths, you can really cover a big part of the piece from just one hole. More importantly, it won’t matter if the piece has some kind of finish. Such a finish could prohibit the Borathor but won’t matter when using FS MP.
FS MP: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/aerosol/fs-mp-insecticide-15-oz-aerosol
Technical Support
800-877-7290
Craig says
Hi, i have recently purchased rough cut pine boards 3/4″ thick from a local saw mill. I have noticed that there are exit holes in the wood that have dark stains. Also we found an area on the wood that had a dead powder post beetle about a little less than a inch long. We plan to use this wood for trim in our house. The wood was very wet when picked up as it was cut that day, about a month ago. To date here the wood is now around 10-12% moisture (have a meter). Would boracare work to treat this problem, i am assuming it is active with PPB.
THANKS, Craig
Tech Support says
Craig,
Since the wood is unfinished and accessible, Boracare could be used but you might want to go with the Borathor. Essentially the same amount of active and used the same but way easier to mix up and apply.
Borathor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/borathor
Tech Support