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Home » articles98 » BLACK FIELD CRICKET CONTROL | BUGSPRAY

BLACK FIELD CRICKET CONTROL | BUGSPRAY

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  • FIELD CRICKET BIOLOGY
  • FIELD CRICKET NESTS
  • FIELD CRICKET PROBLEMS
  • FIELD CRICKET CONTROL OUTSIDE USING BAIT
  • BEST FIELD CRICKET SPRAY
  • FIELD CRICKET TRAPS
  • DUST CRAWL SPACES FOR FIELD CRICKETS
  • CONTACT US


Most people know Field and House crickets. Field crickets are brown and in some cases, black in color. House crickets look the same but are much lighter. They are normally tan to light brown.

Black male field cricket
Black male field cricket

Both species will live in and around the home. Both develop the same way.

Related articles:          CAMELBACK CRICKETS          MOLE CRICKETS

 

 

FIELD CRICKET BIOLOGY

Adult cricket females can lay several hundred eggs. Once their eggs hatch, the young develop through a series of instars before fully maturing. However, young can do just about everything adults can. It takes a year for a generation to fully develop.

Brown house cricket
Brown house cricket

Since one female can lay hundreds of eggs, initial activity is usually not noticed. Once eggs hatch and migrate around a home, populations will quickly grow. In the spring, expect to see small field crickets. As the summer goes by, these will grow larger and larger. By fall, adults will be foraging into structures looking for a warm place to spend the winter months.

 

FIELD CRICKET NESTS

Field crickets feed on just about anything. This includes dead insects, live insects, silk, wool, man-made fabric, paper, wood, and just about anything we eat. Typically they’ll nest close to food so keep this in mind when trying to locate local nests.

Field crickets can make the most from a compost pile and will readily nest anywhere garbage accumulates. You can also expect to have them nesting around moist areas where water accumulates or where mold and algae may be growing.

 

FIELD CRICKET PROBLEMS

Field crickets are a pest for several reasons. First, they can destroy wallpaper. Field crickets love to eat the glue which holds wallpaper onto walls. If they have their way, they will continue to feed in this area eventually consuming the wallpaper itself. This usually allows access to furniture, drapes, rugs and clothing.

In fact, field crickets are just as likely to be a pest in closets alongside CLOSET MOTHS and CARPET BEETLES.

In addition to the damage field crickets do, they can also make a lot of noise. Field crickets living in areas behind the home or in the distance provide a natural sound of nature which people like. Once these same field crickets move into your home, this singing immediately becomes unbearable. Expect it to be loud, continuous and to occur at night. Field crickets are nocturnal and do their feeding and singing when it is dark outside. This makes treating for them a little more difficult but there are ways to keep them at bay.

 

FIELD CRICKET CONTROL OUTSIDE USING BAIT

There are two approaches to control these field crickets in and around the home. First, you must realize they originate from outside. This means you need to treat outside to keep their numbers in check. Once populations grow to excessive numbers outside, expect to have some migrating into your home.

The first type of cricket control program is somewhat passive and yet will work if the infestation has just begun. In recent years, several cricket baits have been introduced which work well on field crickets. There are two which will provide control for populations which are still small.

Use SCATTER BAIT outside around the home, in the turf and in flower beds. This granule works well for ants, but field crickets are on the label as well and crickets like cave, camel-back and field crickets will readily eat it. Try to sprinkle small amounts around the home creating a 5′-10′ wide band of treated area. The granules are small and only a little is applied with each sprinkle. The granules will pretty much disappear but rest assured the field crickets will find it.

A 1 pound bag can cover up to 500 sq/ft and will last 2-3 months even in harsh damp environments.

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Try to locate more on the side or sides of the home where activity is thought to be the greatest. Be sure to apply some around air conditioning units and down spouts as such areas are more likely to allow for large cricket populations. Remember, moisture will attract them. If you are watering certain beds or sections of your yard, expect to have field crickets drawn to such areas. Pine straw and wood chips are also prime areas where field crickets will accumulate.

Such areas harbor fungus, algae and other pests – all food for field crickets. This same moisture is needed to activate the Scatter Bait. The product is designed to withstand rain and moisture, so expect applications to last 2-3 months. In heavily infested areas, you will need to re bait more often as populations will quickly feed on your placements. Keep baiting until there numbers decrease or disappear.

BEST FIELD CRICKET SPRAY

If the cricket problem is advanced and there is simply too many field crickets on or around your home, its suggested that you attack them with an aggressive pest management program. This involves applications with some of the best materials we use in the pest control industry. Don’t waste your time with over the counter spray. You may kill a few field crickets with these products but field crickets are able to withstand these materials and you will be confronted with new populations every month or two.

To get quick and complete control, start outside. Treating the foundation will provide a barrier that should stop field crickets from entering. You need to spray at least 3 feet up the side of your home, spraying directly on brick, stucco or wood.

Don’t worry about staining or residue – once mixed, this treatment will dry invisible. It is necessary to spray higher than normal since field crickets are able to jump well and seem to enter by jumping over treated bands if they are too small. The best product to use for this application is BITHOR. It provides a quick knockdown as well as good residual.

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Use a traditional PUMP SPRAYER to do the application. Field crickets don’t like Bithor and will avoid treated surfaces but if they continue to live on or walk over treated areas, they’ll die.

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Although treatments with Bithor will help keep them out, it is recommended that you still bait with Maxforce as described above. This will help diminish populations around the home which ultimately will help to stop any from entering.

 

FIELD CRICKET TRAPS

If there is a problem in the home, there are several methods and materials which can be used. The basic treatment method would be to apply Conquer along baseboards where these pests have been seen. If populations inside are light, this will quickly kill what’s there and the outside treatment will keep new ones from entering. It is also suggested that you set some CRICKET TRAPS out in areas which have been having the greatest activity. These are glue monitors which have a scent field crickets like and will readily enter. Once they do they get stuck and can’t escape.

BLIND FLOWER POT SNAKES

 

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DUST CRAWL SPACES FOR FIELD CRICKETS

If the inside cricket populations have become well established, it is will take more than just spraying to get rid of them. The next step, in addition to spraying, is to use a dust in voids where field crickets may be nesting. This is necessary if the population has access to cool damp areas like crawl spaces.

Field crickets are able to mate, lay eggs and feed in these areas which means that treating the outside and inside will keep numbers down, but not stop the cycle. Without stopping the cycle, you will continue to have some find there way to living areas so by treating these voids, you’ll be able to stop them from penetrating living areas.

If you only have a room or two where they are entering, use DEMISE DUST to stop them. Demise is applied to electric outlets, switch plate covers, light fixtures, baseboard molding and generally any seam or crack that might serve as an entrance point. Demise acts as a desiccant and field crickets will die if they come in contact with it.

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Because crickets hate Demise, they’ll typically avoid treated areas. The dust is very light and is capable of penetrating deep into walls and voids where egg laying females are nesting. Use the CRUSADER APPLICATOR for applying it to these areas. Once treated, these areas will no longer serve as reproduction spaces.

 

CRUSADER HAND DUSTER

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If the area of concern is a crawl space, disperse the Demise with a hand powered duster called a DUSTIN MIZER. This device lets you blow the dust 20 to 30 feet. This coverage is needed when treating crawl spaces. The Dustin Mizer enables you to treat these areas quickly and properly. In small crawl spaces that you are not able to enter, use of the Dustin Mizer may be the only way to get it applied properly.

 

DUSTIN MIZER

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Field crickets can be a nuisance in and around the home. Treatment techniques and materials should vary depending on the level of infestation. If you have a small infestation, you should be able to get control with the use of bait. Maxforce outside will keep populations down. If some have found there way inside, use the Maxforce outside along with some glue traps. Their baited glue will lure foraging crickets and clean up any in the living spaces.

When populations are established and you want quick results, a more aggressive approach is suggested. Treat the outside with Demise and Maxforce to control them where they originate. The use of Demise inside will diminish any population, but if they’re entering from wall voids, use Demise as well. Remember too by retreating the outside once every 2-3 months, you will be able to prevent all new infestations.


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Comments

  1. Karen says

    October 26, 2012 at 12:42 pm

    I have 2 indoor/outdoor cats. Crickets (small ones light brown and adult ones dark brow) are coming in baseboards and are in the garage where our storage is located. I am concerned about which product(s) are NOT poisonous to humans and my cats.

    Thank you.

    Reply
    • Tech Support says

      October 26, 2012 at 1:15 pm

      If you read our Safety FAQ’s, you’ll see that in fact all of the products we have listed will NOT pose a hazard to people or pets when used as we prescribe. This is mostly due to the fact that the products will be applied at such a diluted mix and dispersed over such a large area. And this definitely applies to the products listed above for field crickets. In other words, when applied properly, there is just no chance the material applied will hurt or be a danger to people or pets. Read more on this subject matter here:

      Product Safety: https://bugspray.com/about-us/who_is_bugspray.html#safe_for_the_home

      Now to take it one step further; if you read the article above you’ll learn that most of the material needed to control this pest should be applied to the outside of the structure and to wall voids. And since both these areas which usually don’t have much contact with people or pets, there is virtually no way they can even come in contact with treated areas. This means the chance of any kind of exposure will be close to zero which in turn means there is little to no hazard present to you or your pets.

      Now as explained above, a good application of the Conquer to the siding around the home, focusing in on entry areas like windows, door ways, garage doors, etc., should really help. And then if you dust any points of entry like electric outlets, light switches, pipe and conduit holes, etc. with the Drione Dust, you should be able to pretty much solve the problem and both eliminate and keep field crickets out of the home for good.

      Conquer: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/conquer-esfenvalerate

      Drione: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

      Hand Duster: https://bugspray.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

      As for the inside of your home; you could spray baseboards with Conquer. It’s labeled for use inside homes on baseboards and even for use on carpeting for fleas so it’s okay to be used where people will touch surfaces that have been treated. But if you rather not treat inside, that’s fine too. A good perimeter treatment and dusting of the wall voids will usually solve any cricket problem anyway. Still, we always recommend setting out some Cricket Traps as they can go a long way at identifying problem areas that need extra attention.

      Cricket Traps: https://bugspray.com/traps/glue/mouse-glueboard-5-x-8

      Reply

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