Flying squirrels are divided into two species – the Northern and the Southern. The line dividing the two is somewhere in the northern part of the country around Pennsylvania and across to the Great Lake States. Above this line is where the Northern species resides – all through Canada – and then back down again into California an several other northwestern states. Ever seen one? If not, view this short video that shows one clearly.


Related articles:        BATS        MICE        RACCOON        RATS        SQUIRRELS

Other Information:         PEST ARTICLES



Although most flying squirrels are welcomed in parks and around the yard, they are a pest once inside your home. As wooded lots are cleared, flying squirrels are displaced from their natural habitat and forced to find new homes. If conditions are right, they will move into attics, eaves and soffits of any structure. Once inside the structure, they will cause damage to insulation, rafters and electric wires. The same thing is happening with flying squirrels. Flying squirrels are much smaller than tree squirrels and most people have never seen one in the wild. They are nocturnal. They’re also agile and can enter a structure through the smallest crack or hole. Once inside a structure, they too can cause damage to insulation, wood and electric wires. In fact, this problem has caused most insurance companies to add disclaimers about fires caused by flying squirrels. In general, they will not pay on damage caused by flying squirrels. This includes damage to the home as well as fires which are started by the chewing animals! This disclaimer is written into every homeowner insurance policy the author has seen in recent years. If your policy does not cover damages due to rodents, don’t take an infestation lightly!



Prevention is the best policy to keep flying squirrels away and out of the home. They’re quite successful in the wild because natural predators such as fox, owls and hawks are not as bountiful. Without natural controls, these animals have populated to excessive numbers in metro counties across the United States. And as their natural habitat is cut down, they have learned to live in almost any building man constructs. There are conditions which are more likely to attract them. By minimizing these conditions, you may keep them in the woods instead of your home!



1. Be careful of bird feeders. People love to watch birds and a properly placed bird feeder adds so much to any landscape. But it also calls the local flying squirrels to your property. Over time flying squirrels will learn where the food is coming from and soon they will want to move inside your structure. Flying squirrels will behave in the same way. The only difference is they are active at night so you do not know anything is happening.

Squirrel Scatter Bird FeederIf you must have a bird feeder, use an ELECTROCUTING FEEDER. This smart design uses mild electric shocks to keep flying squirrels away. Powered by two “D” cell batteries, this hanging feeder has an on/off switch and a top which comes off for easy seed fill up. The feeder will deliver a mild shock to any animal large enough to touch either the top or bottom base as well as one of the seed perches or exit holes. When flying squirrels find the feeder, they’ll either walk onto the top or jump onto the bottom of it. As they do this they also attempt to grab one of the perches or seed exit holes which effectively grounds the current causing them to feel a mild shock. This will get them off the feeder immediately.

Squirrel Scatter Bird FeederSquirrel Feeder:


The good news is birds can safely land on any of the perches and get to the seed inside without any chance of shock. They simply are not large enough to touch one of the perches and either the top or bottom base at the same time. Therefore they cannot get shocked. This design will allow you to keep your feeders close by so you can enjoy your birds yet not attract flying squirrels. This is paramount if you wish to get any type of squirrel problem under control and feed birds at the same time.



2. Cut away all branches which are hanging over your buildings. Any tree, bush or shrub which is close to your building is a route of entry and needs to be cut back. Small shrubs and bushes are not bad but tree limbs which hang over or within twenty feet of your roof is a definite route of entry. Flying squirrels will use this route as a way to get onto your roof. Once on the roof these rodents will discover a way into your attic.



3. Install gutter guards and either cover all down spouts with screening or connect them to corrugated pipe which is buried. Flying squirrels are able to fit through the smallest of cracks since they have a soft and pliable body. This space between the facia board and rooftop is very accessible to them and they can reach it by “flying” from trees which are over 100 feet away from the structure. Even if this crack is tiny, any squirrel will easily chew through the wood to get in. They will do this chewing naturally; nature tells them to nest inside the hollows of trees and any empty space such as that which is behind facia boards or above soffits will attract flying squirrels naturally.



Once inside your structure, flying squirrels will make a lot of noise and cause damage. The first sign of an unwanted guest is noise. These noises may be in the attic or walls. Try to inspect these areas. You must identify who the intruder is before you can address it. If the noise occurs at night, the animal is probably nocturnal. Flying squirrels make a lot of noise and you will hear them anytime between sunset and sunrise. Flying squirrels will also avoid you at all costs. They will burrow into insulation and generally do not want you to see them. Droppings are another clue. Tree squirrels will leave droppings anywhere; flying squirrels have a designated place where these droppings will accumulate. If you are finding droppings all over the attic but you only hear noise during the night, you have either mice or roof rats.



Once the animal is properly identified, it needs to be removed. Don’t waste your time with glueboards or snap traps. You may get lucky and catch one or two with such a device, but once others see their friends and family trapped and killed, they won’t go near one! Forget about using some kind of poison to kill them. There is none labeled for flying squirrels and even if there was, you’d be risking all kinds of problems that happen following it’s use anyway. Rodenticides are for rats and mice only.

The biggest problem with using a poison is the risk of having the animal die some- where and smelling. Most rodenticides work on animals by blocking the bodies ability to make platelets. Platelets are vital to mammals in that they help blood to clot. When blood does not have platelets, any animal will bleed to death. This inability of their blood to clot will lead to their death. After they ingest enough of a rodenticide, they are not able to recover from a cut or internal hemorrhage. In effect, they will die of internal bleeding. This type of death is messy and can occur in your attic, basement, crawl space, wall, yard, roof, or home. There are no rodenticides which cause animals to “seek water, dehydrate or embalm themselves.” All these claims are stories fabricated by the individuals applying the products because it is what people want to hear. Simply put, if you use rodenticide, you are at risk of having the animal die somewhere inaccessible and smelling for some time.



N7CNNZIf this happens, you will need to use an odor eater which “consumes” the odor as it is released into the air. NNZ or N7C is such a product. NNZ and N7C are enzymal in their behavior. They work by eating odor molecules. These products will work best when placed closest to where the animal has died. This can be difficult to do if the animal is inaccessible so the next best thing is to spray some into the wall void or attic area where it is suspected to be laying.




You can also make small placements in the room or rooms where the odor is strongest. The material will remove the odor as it is released. You will need to renew the placements every few days until the body of the squirrel has completely decomposed. This usually takes 2-6 weeks – depending on local temperatures and insect activity. If the death occurs in the winter, expect the odor to last several months or until certain insects are active which will feed on the carrion. Given the problems with snap traps, glueboards and poisons, it makes sense to deal with this problem the way a professional wildlife control specialist would; the use of live or kill traps.



Though the thought of trapping sounds like a lot of work, it is actually quite easy. Furthermore, most problems involve several animals. Long term control is further complicated because flying squirrels are territorial. Once you remove the squirrel which is active in your home another will quickly occupy the vacated territory. This is why trapping is generally the best method to employ. Both live trapping and kill trapping are effective. Kill trapping eliminates the need of having to relocate the animal which saves time; live trapping is more humane but means you will have to take the squirrel at least 10 miles away to insure it won’t return. See three released in this short video.

Live trapping is easier to do and easier on the conscience; kill trapping is preferred by people who have been fighting flying squirrels for a long time and have no problems destroying the animals which are causing damage to their home. Either method is effective and the following text will describe in great detail what tools you will need to do the job and how to go about getting the results you want.



Pecan PasteTo trap flying squirrels, you must place the trap in the attic where they are active. This is where you see their droppings or where you see their burrows throughout the insulation. The only bait which will work for them is our TRAPPERS CHOICE PECAN PASTE and some Sunflower Seeds scattered around. Use both a tablespoon of Trappers Choice Pecan placed on the trip pan of the trap and at least 8 ounces of sunflower seeds to insure a quick catch. Furthermore, if they are active in trey ceiling areas or other “tight” spots in your attic, getting your trap close enough for successful catches could prove hard to do.

Pecan PastePecan Paste:


Night FlyerSince flying squirrels don’t like foraging around in attics, it can sometimes be a challenge to get your trap set close enough to where they are nesting or most active. If this is the case in your attic, the use of some NITE FLYER could be a big help. This oil based attractant works as a “trailing” scent and is used by placing 1 drop every 1-2 feet leading from where the flying squirrels are most active to where the trap is being set. Nite Flyer was designed for flying squirrels to help get them to find live trap sets that much faster. There is no need to over apply it so limit amounts to one drop at a time. However, the further back into hidden and inaccessible areas you can get some applied, the better “trail” you will create. Ultimately, this will allow you to trap unwanted animals that much faster and is particularly helpful for any nocturnal animal like flying squirrels.

Night FlyerNite Flyer Attractant:



Now that you have a good idea of where you need to place your trap and you know what type of lure to use in it, let’s discuss trap options. There are plenty of live traps available on the market today but many are not good quality or designed to “keep what they catch”. Flying squirrels can fit through the tiniest of spaces and will easily escape from a 1″ by 1″ hole. For this reason, you must employ a trap with wire spacing that does not exceed 1/2″ x 1″ if flying squirrels are your main target. Since trap design has been very progressive these past few years, there are traps now being made for use in different scenarios. Try to get a trap that will best fit your application need. Live trap selection can be broken down into three main categories. The following is a summary of these categories along with links to all the traps available.

Live Trap 5x5x18 RDLive Trap GreenThe 5x5x16 GREEN LIVE TRAP will work on flying squirrels since it’s made with 1/2″ by 1″ wire. The best traps available today are the spring loaded professional models. The LT5518 or LT5518RD will work well for flying squirrels. They utilize 1/2″ by 1″ wire and will last many years.

Live Trap GreenGreen Live Trap:

Live Trap 5x5x18Live Trap:



Repeater 3.5 x 3.5 x 24When dealing with big populations, the use of a multi catch trap help can save some time. Known as “repeaters”, these traps can hold several animals at one time. They feature one way doors with two holding areas. Animals enter the first door and cannot escape. Typically they’ll forage around in this holding area until they find the second door which opens to the second holding area. They will then go through this door and end up in the back of the trap with no way to escape. These traps can be used outside or inside and both are made with 1/2″ by 1″ wire. This means you can use them flying squirrels. The 3.5×3.5×24 REPEATER is the preferred size when targeting flying squirrels. It features a rear sliding door that makes animal release easy once caught. This is a true professional trap made of high quality components and will last a long time.

Repeater 3.5 x 3.5 x 24Small Repeater Trap:



Live Re-Ex 3.5 x 3.5 x 31As the name implies, these unique traps are for special applications where you need to both exclude and catch nuisance animals. Designed to be set directly over the entry holes target flying squirrels are using, these traps will funnel exiting animals into a three sectioned compartment. You can only employ this trap if you know the location of entry holes and then only if this location will allow you to get the trap properly mounted. Made of 1/2″ by 1″ wire, they will hold flying squirrels. The 3.5×3.5×31 RE-EX is excellent for flying squirrels. What’s great about these traps is that target animals are both excluded and caught by the same device. This means you’ll know for sure when all the animals inside have been caught. Furthermore, you won’t have to worry about any coming back inside – the trap serves as a “cap” over the hole when in place. Remember, this design is only designed to be used over entry holes and it’s important to get one installed over each hole being used.

Live Re-Ex 3.5 x 3.5 x 31Small Re-Ex Trap:×3-5×31



Here are a few tips for successful trapping.

Do not inspect the traps more than once a day unless you know something has been caught. Flying squirrels are great observers and if you are seen in a given area repeatedly, you will spook them into being very wary of this new device which is suddenly available in their territory and attracting attention from humans.

Pecan PasteBe sure to use a tablespoon of our special lure called TRAPPERS CHOICE PECAN PASTE. This blend of nuts and oils has an aroma which will last for days. Place a tablespoon on the trip pan of your trap and smear it over the pan evenly. Next, add birdseed or sunflower seeds behind the trip pan as a visual aid. When flying squirrels make their way to the trap they expect to see a lot of seed due to the strong smell. Remember, the seed amount is the payoff. 5 or 10 seeds behind the trip pan may not be enough to get them inside; their must be a pot of gold waiting for them in order to make trap entry worth the risk. Don’t be afraid of adding 1/2 to 1 lb of loose seed. It’s OK if some is leaking out the sides. This will let them get a taste of what awaits them inside.

Pecan PastePecan Paste:


Place most of the bait behind the trip pan, but be sure to place some seeds in front of the trap and leading in the door. This will allow them to follow the “trail” and find the entrance which can sometimes be missed.

When using these traps where you suspect there is more than one animal active, use two bait placements. Do this by placing the recommended amount of seed behind the trip pan but then add 1/4 of that amount in front of the trip pan. This bait placement will enable you to lure more than one animal in at a time since the first one that enters will stop to feed on the front placement and subsequent animals entering while the first animal is feeding will move to the back of the trap causing it to trip.

If relocating trapped animals, make sure to take them at least 10 miles away. The author has had flying squirrels return up to 7 miles and expects they can find their way back further if given the chance. To prevent this from happening, do not let them go closer than 10 miles away. Be sure you measure in a straight line over air – not how far you drive.



Flying squirrels need to be trapped in the attic. Look for areas in the insulation where you can see a lot of activity. Such areas will have tunnels and nests which look like piles.

Since flying squirrels prefer to leave their droppings in one main area, this is a great place to trap them. Chimney areas are a common place for such activity as are voids behind trey ceilings. These areas can be hard to reach but is critical for success!

Wait at least a two week period (without hearing any sound) before you try to close any holes you suspect are allowing the animals to get inside. If you close the holes too soon, the trapped animal may react violently and at least will certainly chew another hole.

Established flying squirrels consider your home their home and if you close any holes you will only force them to chew it back open or create new holes. Routes of entry allow you to know where to make successful trap sets so use them to your advantage.



Copper Stuff ITOnce you are sure the nesting animals have been removed, you can go about doing the real fix and seal the hole once and for all. Though the use of wood and other building supplies may be needed to do the closure, COPPER WOOL is very easy to use and works great at keeping both flying squirrels and rats from chewing back inside. It is easy to work with and can simply be stuffed into the openings without a lot of effort. It won’t rust or break down for a long time and is extremely effective when you need to seal a lot of small openings which surround the average attic.

Copper Stuff ITCopper Stuff It:



Pur CleanerPur IPF FoamPur BlackPur Pro Gun 24"Pur Shooter Basic GunThe use of some professional FOAM is also recommended. If you have a lot of sealing to do, get either the PUR STANDARD GUN or PUR 24″ GUN. These professional tools will let you apply the PUR BLACK CANNISTER to all cracks and crevices which will do a great job of keeping out small rodents and insects. If you have a lot of spaces and hollow voids that will be filled, use the PUR FOAM W/REPELLENT refill. It will expand more and includes a strong repellent so you get extra protection – especially from chewing and gnawing animals. If you decide to tackle the sealing job yourself, do it right with the right products and you will find that you can keep flying squirrels out. Use the GUN CLEANER refill to keep any of these applicators clean and ready for their next job. Watch this video to see how we install both the Copper Wool and some expanding Foam.

Pur Shooter Basic GunPur Gun:

Pur Pro Gun 24"Pur Gun 24″ :

Pur BlackPur Black:

Pur IPF FoamFoam Repellent:

Pur CleanerPur Gun Cleaner:



Though the use of kill traps seem inhumane and mean, many professionals use these devices for gaining control. In fact, certain counties in some states will not allow commercial trappers to relocate wild animals. They must destroy them either on the property or at their place of business. Other regions allow the trapped animal to be disposed of at local animal control offices. Though live trapping is very effective and easy to do, kill trapping is an option and will work well when a quick remedy is needed and when entrance holes or pathways are known. The use of such devices will help reduce the amount of time needed to control large populations since there is no need to worry about animal relocation.

BG 110BG 55When kill trapping, there are three primary devices which are used. The most traditional is the BODYGRIP 55 or BODYGRIP 110 which are a body crushing type trap. These traps have been around for many years and are readily used by animal wildlife control officers as well as fur trappers. Most commonly used for muskrat, these traps work by crushing the target animal on it’s head or body leading to a quick kill. Trap placement is critical and limited to ones imagination.

BG 55BG 55:

BG 110BG 110:



The most common set is just outside the entrance/exit hole leading into the structure. If you know where the animals are entering, simply place the trap outside the hole by mounting the spring with some deck screws or long nails. The best set will have the dog(part of the trap) and trigger on the top of the trap and have enough play so as to not restrict the trap when collapsing. This can be a tricky trap to use first because it is hard to set when standing on a tall ladder and second because you need to create a mount on surfaces which are hard to penetrate.

The good point about using this trap is that it is very effective since flying squirrels will readily move through it as if it wasn’t even there leading to a quick kill. A quick reset of the trap means you now are ready for any more which currently are residing in your home or any which are looking to move in. This type of set can be used by vents, around chimneys, on fence tops and dryer vents. Be careful where you place the trap, however, since the springs are strong enough to break the hand of children and put a hurting on anyone who gets caught. This type of kill trap is best left to professionals but if you are adventuresome and have some prior experience using this design, they can prove to be quite good at removing current populations.



RaticatorAnother type of kill trap has only been around for a few years but is both easy to use and effective. It uses electricity to deliver a lethal shock which kills the squirrel in less than a minute. Originally designed for mice and rats, these devices are now built with enough power to kill flying squirrels. These new ELECTROCUTION DEVICES are powered by batteries, can be set in attics or outside and will work quite well at killing any small animal which enters and grounds itself out. They work by using electricity conducted along two metal plates on the bottom of the trap. Flying squirrels entering will be touching one of these plates and quickly die.

RaticatorRat Zapper Classic:


Pecan PastePlacing some of our PECAN PASTE in the back of the trap along with some type of seed will lure the squirrel back far enough until it steps on the second metal plate. This allows the circuit to be complete using the squirrel as the conductor. For the next 30-60 seconds an electric current will flow through the animal causing a quick kill. The device delivers the shock this long to insure the squirrel is dead. Electrocution is both humane and quick. Dead flying squirrels are easy to remove and resetting the trap is as easy as flick of the switch. Proper location of these devices seems to be the most critical variable which affects performance. When trapping flying squirrels, you will need to locate the device in the attic.

Pecan PastePecan Paste:



Once the flying squirrels have been removed from your attic, you have a couple of choices on what to do to stop new ones from entering. The direct approach is to close off all entrances to your attic. This may be easier said than done. Flying squirrels are creatures of habit with a strong sense of smell. Where one squirrel enters, a scent trail is left which others may find and use. This scent will last for six to twelve months and sometimes longer. It will enable a squirrel to find ways into your attic that you never knew existed.



Females that have been in your home will leave a strong scent which attract males for acres around and for as long as a year or two after she has been removed. Furthermore, territorial scents are always being tested so foraging flying squirrels will look to encounter their neighbors. If the squirrel living in your home is suddenly missing from the neighborhood activity, other flying squirrels will start to investigate the vacated territory either looking for a place to live or to find the lost squirrel. Either way, this type of activity will show you just how many routes of entry there are into your home and give you some idea as to how much work it will entail to do exclusion.

This is why certain professional trappers command a premium for sealing entrance holes. Most companies don’t really do a complete job; they tend to deal with the immediate problem or route of entry which they seal properly. However, the problem is generally much more complex requiring extensive work and repairs. Don’t expect to get much done for $100.00 to $200.00. One company the author deals with charges an average of $800.00 to $1,100.00 to seal a house but includes a lifetime warranty. Needless to say, it is well worth every penny.

It has been proven over and over again that once a house gets squirrel activity it is many times more likely to get similar activity again in the future. This is such a common theme that as the homeowner you must make a decision as to how you plan on dealing with this ongoing problem. Keeping several live traps around ready to trap them out as they enter is an option. However, paying someone to properly seal the holes may prove to be a better choice in the long run. Pay to do it right or don’t waste your money. If you attempt to close the holes yourself, be thorough. Don’t limit your work to just the holes you know they are using. Inspect the entire home and address potential entry points. Be sure to use quality products like the Copper Wool we discuss above. Most importantly, you must look the entire structure over from top to bottom. New flying squirrels will undoubtedly take advantage of similar entry points, so sealing or enforcing these areas before animals have entered is advised.



RopelThere are several products which can be used on and around the home to help discourage new invasions. ROPEL LIQUID is a terrible tasting material and flying squirrels can’t stand it. Spray areas where you expect flying squirrels to chew. The taste of the Ropel will discourage them. This product is really helpful for three main types of squirrel behaviors which can be a problem. First, if you have had nesting flying squirrels and feel sure you have trapped out all that were accessing the home, you can perform closure by properly sealing all entry points. The rule to follow here is that you should not perform any closure until you have trapped them out and HAVE NOT HEARD NOISE INSIDE FOR AT LEAST 2 WEEKS!!. If you can go two weeks without having any enter the home, you can safely seal up all entrances.

RopelRopel Liquid:



Critter RidderAnother repellent which can be used in the home is called CRITTER RID. This product is a granule and can be sprinkled in the area where the animals are active. Use it in attics, wall voids and soffits. It evaporates slowly and releases an odor flying squirrels do not like. One application will last about 4-6 weeks outside and up to three months when used inside. Again, don’t use this product to chase away existing populations; use it to keep new ones from establishing themselves in areas where flying squirrels were once very active. By properly sealing holes and installing Bat/Squirrel Away in nest areas, you will be disguising the old scents and hopefully keeping new flying squirrels away.

Critter RidderCritter Rid:



USD Transonic TX-ProAnother repellent that works for flying squirrels is the TRANSONIC SOUND REPELLENT. You’ll need to set it “on” most of the time and since the range of sound needed can be detected by people, it may be heard inside the living spaces. This could turn out to be annoying to people trying to sleep. The sound won’t be harmful but it could prove annoying. But if the area is remote and far from where people are active, the Transonic can no doubt help.

USD Transonic TX-ProTransonic:


Unlike rats or mice, flying squirrels prefer to travel on the surface of the insulation. Although they may burrow for nesting, when they romp around and jump from rafter to rafter they are out in the open. This is key to getting the ultra sonic devices to work on any animal. The next reason these units will work is that you should use them to deter new flying squirrels from moving into your attic. So if you have current activity, live trap the ones living there now. Once no activity is noted for a period of two weeks, you can install Transonic. Try to position them in the center of the void so they are sending the signal out over the area providing wide coverage.

USD AC/BATT YARD GARD (49)Now for extra protection, you should install the weather resistant YARD GARD on the outside of the home pointing at the areas where the flying squirrels are entering. By blanketing these locations with sound you can effectively make it very uncomfortable for them to come around your home. Flying squirrels are particularly sensitive to these devices and cannot tolerate the sound at all. Because of this aversion to the sound, properly placed Yard Gards can keep them off the home and effectively out of your attic.



In summary, maintaining your landscape will prevent flying squirrels from moving into your home. Keep bushes, shrubs and trees well manicured. Once flying squirrels have moved in, the use of live traps will probably be your best option to catch and relocate. Take them at least ten miles away to insure they will not return. The live trap is humane, easy to use and presents no risk to you, your family or pets. Once current infestations of flying squirrels are removed, new ones will use old scent trails and forage into your attic looking for a home. Close off all entry points to prevent this from happening. Use repellents to make the area uncomfortable to them. If closure and repellents are too much work, the use of Ultra-Sonics or the Strobe Evictor will keep new ones out for good. Flying squirrels are smart and persistent and will readily move into your home if given the chance. Don’t let them – it could lead to costly and tragic events.


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Comments on FLYING SQUIRREL CONTROL Leave a Comment

January 30, 2013

Molly @ 9:30 pm #


I have now seen 3 flying squirrels in my house. The first I found munching in our dog food bowl and was successful in getting it out of the house. Several days later, I found a dead one in the laundry in the basement. It has been several weeks and we just noticed that one was on the trim of the window in our living room. While trying to catch it, it ran into a small opening in the fireplace and traveled up the chimney. We are pretty confident that the chimney is the entry point. Our house is an A-frame so we do not have an attic.

Help! I dont know what I should do, if there are more in the house, how to deal with this. We live in the country also.

January 31, 2013

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