MOLD CONTROL



Though most people don’t think of fungus, mold or mildew as a “pest”, these organisms certainly have a lot of characteristics in common with more traditional household pests like ants or roaches. Fungus and mold are definitely living organisms, they generally live and thrive where moisture is present and when left untended, can cause a lot damage. In fact, most mold and fungus infestations are directly related to insect and/or animal activity. There are many insects which will “farm” mold, fungus or algae growth so where mold or fungus is growing, it is quite common to find many different species of insects trying to take advantage of the growth. Most important, however, is the fact that mold, mildew and fungus pose three greater risks.

1) They can lead to massive wood damage. Like termites, certain mold and fungus are able to turn cellulose material (stuff made of wood or wood by products) to food stuff and in the process will weaken and destroy the structural integrity of any item is infested.

2) Mold and fungus release spores which are their way of reproducing. These spores float around in the air and pose inhalation risks to those living in the local environment. In fact, these spores are considered to be a major allergen and rank with pollen as a main source of contaminants for allergy sufferers.

3) Some types of molds and fungus release highly toxic “mycotoxins” which are byproducts that develop and then release during growth. These mycotoxins can cause severe adverse health problems for many people. Though the mold Stachybotrys chartarum (Stachybotrys atra) is the more commonly thought of toxic mold, there are many others that pose health risks when allowed to grow and prosper in living areas. Such species includes Claviceps pupurea, Aspergillus Penicillium and Cladosporium. If you are worried about just which types of mold are present in your building or living area, consider doing a MOLD TEST. Though you can pay hundreds or even thousands to have an independent company come in and perform the procedure, it is possible to do this yourself. The key is getting a reliable lab to analyze the spores correctly and we have had good success with the one we use.

The bottom line is that fungus (mold and mildew) is not a good thing to have growing in the home. This article will first highlight some basic information about fungi and how it grows and what it likes. Then the article will explain what should be done if you are experiencing fungus (mold) in areas either in or out of the home. If you want to go directly to our “how to control” section of this article, follow the link below to the area or areas you want to treat or protect against mold. Each section will offer a wide array of products designed to first kill off any fungus present and then put into place a line of defense which will either prohibit or control mold growth altogether.

MOLD CONTROL IN THE YARD

MOLD CONTROL ON THE OUTSIDE OF A BUILDING

MOLD CONTROL IN LIVING AREAS OF THE HOME

MOLD CONTROL IN CRAWL SPACES AND ATTICS

MOLD CONTROL INSIDE WALL VOIDS

Mold, mildew and fungus are all around us. There are literally thousands of kinds taking all different shapes and living virtually anywhere. Though all fall under the general category of Fungi, mold and mildew and mushrooms are the more common names given to fungi which is found in all parts of the world. Decay fungi or decay fungus are the types which can lead to massive wood damage and generally referred to as “wood rot” or “decay” fungus.

Most people know of mushrooms and in fact, mushrooms have long been consumed by people and eaten on a regular basis. Though some are alright to eat, others contain strong toxins which can lead to different types of health problems should they be eaten. Mushrooms grow in the ground, on plants and virtually anywhere moisture and humidity is high enough to sustain a given species. When combined with the right soil ph, food requirements and temperature, mushrooms can be found growing anywhere.

MILDEW MOLD

Mildew is a type of mold which is commonly found in living areas but can thrive in hidden inaccessible areas as well. It may form when nothing but high moisture levels are present but it does need food to grow. This food is usually found on the surface of wood material but it can grow successfully on just about anything. Sugars and starches found in the structural cells of the host will provide more then enough food for most any mildew to grow. And since moisture levels only need to be 20%, they can grow virtually anywhere. Mildew is not a complex type of mold or decay fungi but can help to promote more problem fungi because as it consumes readily available nutrients from it’s host, the structural integrity of the material serving as host will be changed so that it will then be able to accept more moisture then before. This increase in moisture levels can easily lead to more complex molds or decay fungi which need 28-30% moisture to thrive.

Decay Fungi or Fungus or Mold is the most complex of fungi and this species of mold will start to grow when moisture levels are 28% or higher. Unlike common mildew, decay fungus or mold will grow into and throughout wood and wood by products. Furthermore, decay mold has the ability to convert the complex structure of cellulose (wood) into nutrients on which it then feeds. Decay mold and mildew release enzymes into the wood which essentially digest the wood which is then absorbed by the mold. Decay fungi may show itself as a growing entity located on the outside of the wood. Such growth is commonly seen in the woods on the sides of trees.

MOLD IN BASEMENTS

However, this same growth can occur in basements, crawl spaces or attics. Regardless of where it grows, the fruiting body seen is only a small part of the whole story. This body, known as the Mycelium, will generate spores which are basically mold seeds. These spores are what will float around looking for other areas to grow and live and reproduce. These same spores are what can be carrying mycotoxins which can pose serious health risks when inhaled. The Mycelium start out as hyphae, which is like a root, that grows throughout the structure of the wood. It will enter, penetrate and grow seeking cells where it can excrete it’s powerful enzyme which will in turn convert the wood to food. When left to grow, decay molds will literally consume wood till there is no structural integrity left where the fungus has fed. Like termite damage, it is sometimes hard to know where the damage is occurring. This is because the roots of the fungus can be far from where the Mycelium is found. In other words, it is quite common for a mold to be growing on the outside of the home when in fact it’s roots are finding their way inside to a wall void where moisture is high and temperatures ideal.

Though Mildew by itself is not cause for great alarm, if not addressed properly, it is highly likely this mildew will lead to some other mold in the future which could be destructive or hazardous. For this reason it is wise to deal with any mildew or mold situations as they are found.

MOLD GROWTH

There are certain conditions which favor mildew and mold growth. These conditions should be minimized which in turn will retard or diminish the success any mold growth will have on or in the structure.

** Moisture levels must be 20% or higher for mildew; 28% or higher for decay fungus growth where it grows. ** These levels are actually quite low when compared to average moisture level found in most any home. Clearly 1/2 of the United States is in a region that favors mold and mildew growth outside the home for better then 1/2 of the year. For this reason it is all the more important to keep attics, crawl spaces and wall voids free of excessive moisture.

** Temperatures have an impact on how mold or mildew will grow. **

Though fungi will become dormant during cold temperatures, they will not die. This means winter freezes will not kill off whatever you may have growing in or around the home. Mildew and mold like 60-90 degree temperatures but can grow when it’s hotter or colder.

** Eliminating the moisture in the air and wood or wood by products will help prevent fungi from growing. **

Since moisture is essential for the growth of mold or mildew, keeping water properly drained and out of crawl spaces is essential for mold control. Make sure any leaky pipe, roof or drainage issue is taken care of immediately before mold spores are left to grow and start to thrive. And if you suspect there is a moisture issue but aren’t quite sure, get a simple HUMIDITY MONITOR installed. These tiny devices are great for both identifying moisture problems and for monitoring rooms where you are attempting to keep levels under control. Use them in crawl spaces, attics, living rooms, bathrooms and just about any space which either has a moisture issue or is suspected to have a problem. By keeping watch over these vital measurements you will be able to both identify where the problem exists and if your efforts to keep it under control are working.

MISPERCEPTIONS ABOUT MOLD

** Fungus spores are everywhere and there is nothing that can be done about them or their presence. **

Not true. Though the part about them being everywhere is true, there are some very basic things that can be done in and around the home to help keep mold and other fungus from growing. Yes, there will always be fungi spores floating around but without good places to live, they will land and die. By keeping conditions conducive to mold growth minimized, combined with using the right combination of mole and fungi prevention treatments or equipment, you can keep growth off and out of the home or at least minimized to levels which are barely noticeable and manageable.

** Just spray the mold with bleach and it will be gone. **

Not true. Though you might be able to remove or “white out” what you were seeing, bleach does not provide any residual or preventative protection which means that what you remove will soon return if other safeguards are not put in place. Furthermore, the growth you treated could be very far away from the mold food supply.

** All fungus or mold is “black mold” or “deathly toxic”. **

Not true. Though most decay fungi are categorized by the pigments they contain which means they are labeled as either white, brown, blue, black or green, not all of them are toxic. In fact, brown rot is probably the most common and though not life threatening, it does cause a lot of damage to wood and should be killed off when found. In other words, mold and mold growth can pose many problems once in the home and these problems are not only health related but can become structural issues as well as cosmetic problems.

MOLD CONTROL PROBLEMS

Many types of mold will grow in the yard. These include slime, algae, moss, mushrooms or mildew. This is due to near perfect conditions which exist in the yard. Virtually every yard will have shady, damp areas which are well protected and collect many nutrients on which mold can live. These molds will start in the grass and may go unnoticed for several years. At some point they will creep out onto walkways, patios or other areas in the landscape where they will become noticeable. Furthermore, their growth will kill off many plants, shrubs and grass making the soil unusable and unsightly. The good news is that such areas are both easy to treat and not costly to maintain. Most importantly, addressing the mold in the yard is first and foremost if you want to help keep growth off and away from your house!

If you have mold/moss/slime or other fungi growth in the turf and want it gone, use some MOSS/MILDEW/MOLD KILLER. It will even work to stop mushrooms from growing. This product is easy to apply and can be used dry or sprayed. This is the only real “one product does-it-all” available. This means it will first kill the growth – which in turn will allow it to disappear – and then it will prevent future growth. Treating twice a year will prevent any new growth and is strongly recommended for yards where moisture is high and conducive to mold growth. Keep in mind that it will take 2-4 weeks for you to see any results when using this product. However, when applied properly, the product will first kill what is living and then prevent future growth. It can be used on cement, lawns, wood, rocks, railroad ties, landscape timber, fences, anything ceramic or plastic and generally anything out in the yard. 

MOLD CONTROL OUTSIDE THE HOUSE

Mold will readily grow on our houses just like it will grow in the wild. Though it usually starts in shady, moist sides of the home, mold can grow anywhere. In fact, one of the most common places mold growth is found will be on roof shingles!

Drive around looking for any roof which features a light color tile or roof shingle. These readily hold moisture on which all types of mold will grow. The mold will appear as dark sections on the tile, almost like dirt, and generally don’t cover the whole roof. These stains will remain throughout the year and are both unsightly and damaging. First, the fungus which is living there is probably extracting nutrients from the rafters and wood supports of the roof. Secondly, this mold will deteriorate both the shingles and the underlying structure if left untended. Killing this type of mold is not as easy as treating lawn mold but it is still relatively easy just the same.

The best approach is to spray the MOSS/MILDEW/MOLD KILLER on the entire roof. If the roof has a pitch, the material will run off naturally so be sure to start your spraying on the highest point. The runoff will cover all areas. If the roof is flat, use the dry form and sprinkle it out evenly covering the whole roof. If the roof is steeply pitched, there will be a lot of run off but spraying will be the only option unless you can access it safely. As a general rule, you shouldn’t spray anything other then the Moss/Mildew/Mold Killer. It might take a few weeks, but the mold which is sprayed will die off and usually wears away over the course of a few months. If you still have some unsightly stains after 4-6 months, you might try a cleanser of some kind to remove the stain but keep in mind that light colored tiles are prone to getting permanent stains. If the mold was allowed to stay on the tiles for a year or more it could be quite hard for all the discoloration to disappear and cleaning it is your next best alternative. Once cleaned, be sure to retreat with the Moss/Mildew/Mold Killer to insure it won’t grow again since most cleaners will destroy any residual or protection and your tiles will be vulnerable again.

If the mold is growing on the siding of the home, you may be able to treat it with the Moss/Mildew/Mold Killer but there are two other materials that work better for this application. Again, don’t use any bleach or other cleaners or stains. To kill off and remove any mold currently growing, a pressure washer is best suited. However, the use of some MOLD BLASTER will help with the removal. This is a product that is designed for both quick killing and after 10-20 minutes, will enable the mold to wash away that much easier. Use this on any type of surface. It can be applied with just about any of our sprayers.

Just spray the siding, let it sit and then wash away. Using the Mold Blaster will reduce the amount of work needed for mold removal and will get siding – whether it’s wood, vinyl, brick or stucco – clean and new looking again. Also, unlike bleach or other harsh chemical cleaners, it is designed to target mold and mildew without huvrting plants or the structure. This is really the only choice if you have brick and want to avoid any chemical reaction or stains. Once you have it applied and it does it’s work, wash the area down and let it dry. Once dry, apply some MOLD BLOCKER. This product is designed to stop mold and mildew from growing where it has been applied. It will work on cement, stucco, wood, tiles and just about anywhere. Simply put, it is amazing and even works at stopping moss from growing on dark and shady sides of the house. It won’t hurt plants but try to keep your application on the targeted sight so you don’t waste the material. Apply it annually for best results.

MOLD CONROL INSIDE THE HOME

Like outside, mold will grow anywhere conditions are conducive for it to grow. Though most people don’t want to think about mold growing in their home, there are many areas and rooms that are particularly vulnerable. Bathrooms and kitchens are the two most common areas where mold will likely start. However, any structure which has high moisture levels can develop a problem. More likely is the scenario where mold problems are stemming from sources like attics, wall voids or crawl spaces which have high moisture and mold growth. If allowed to grow in these areas the mold will undoubtedly find it’s way into living areas. Look below for controlling problems in attics, crawl spaces or wall voids. However, if you are having a problem in the living area, there are certain things you can do.

First, use a strong mold killer on surfaces which are showing signs of growth. The MOLD BLASTER is excellent for this job. What’s nice about the Mold Blaster is that it contains an odor control component so that you are able to both kill off the mold as well as the unpleasant smell with just one product. If you have a need for small spot applications and don’t have an odor problem that must be addressed, there is another product which is ready to use called STERIFAB. It is commonly used on Dust Mites but works as a Mildewcide killing off any fungi or mold. It has been used in hospitals and other institutions for many years and is both easy to spray and very effective. If you find that mold returns within a short time following any cleaning, apply some of the MOLD BLOCK over any surface which is having a problem. It will stop all growth for a year or more and is safe to apply on any surface in the home making it ideal for cement, wood, plastic, tiles, painted surfaces and other areas which present problems. This is a great material for use in the kitchen or bathroom.

MOLD CONTROL IN CRAWL SPACES OR ATTICS

Treating mold and fungi in living areas of the home is almost always directly related to treating a moisture problem which is funded by either a moist crawl space, attic or wall void. This next section details how to treat the moisture and mold problem if it’s related to crawl spaces or attics.

When moisture levels in either crawl spaces or attics are allowed to get too high, mold will readily grow and thrive. Decay or toxic mold should be a concern and for this reason, you should always keep such areas as dry as possible. Remember, it only takes moisture levels of 20% or more for mold to grow and damage or health risk to start developing. If you suspect you might have moisture levels which are too high, check all exposed wood with a MOISTURE METER. These are easy to use and will allow you to readily identify whether you have enough moisture present to be concerned about the welfare of your structure or your health. The rule to follow regarding the use of this meter is simple.

First, if you reside where your crawl space is always wet and damp, you most likely don’t need to measure the moisture on a regular basis because you probably have more then enough present to allow mold growth year round. However, if you have a space which has a moisture problem from time to time during the year, the Moisture Meter can prove to be a valuable tool. By monitoring the moisture of wood in attics or crawls throughout the season, you will be able to learn if there are times when conditions reach and/or sustain conducive variables for mold growth. If you find moisture levels in the 20-25% range for a month or more during any one year, both moisture control and mold control is warranted. Once moisture levels this high can be documented, the act of putting into place both moisture control equipment and mold preventive materials would be considered prudent and justified.

Though attics can become an environment where mold will thrive, in most cases the supply of water there will be limited so decay fungi won’t as common. However, it can happen when a leaky roof is left unrepaired for several years or if you have a problem with a rain gutter or some flashing around chimneys, vent pipes, attic fans or anything else which is popping up through the roof. These weaknesses generally don’t remain wet all the time but since mold growth can go dormant and thrive as soon as conditions are right, any high moisture levels at all are not good. For this reason, any leak should be corrected. It is also important to point out that the moisture which accumulates around pipes when they “sweat” has been proven to be more then enough for mold to grow. Lastly, since most any attic will utilize common attic vents as a way to get air circulation, if you reside in humid regions, attics will easily have enough moisture to foster mold growth.

MOLD CONTROL IN CRAWL SPACES

Crawl spaces are the more common location where moisture is found and from there will impact both living areas and structural members of the building. Crawl spaces with dirt floors are more likely to have problems then are crawl spaces or basements with cement floors. Though cement can allow moisture to penetrate, it usually does a better job of keeping it at bay then does plain dirt. Crawl spaces which are not accessible pose all kinds of problems and if you have a building with such a space, it is strongly recommended that access be made so that regular inspections can be performed.

Crawl spaces are likely to have moisture problems related to several contributing sources. Most common is moisture which permeates due to high levels of local rain fall. In regions where rain falls throughout the year in significant amounts, as the soil outside the home become saturated so too will the soil under the home. This will allow moisture to funnel up to the structural members of the home which in turn will make for ideal mold growth. If your crawl space is subject to become water filled due to runoff problems with down spouts or outside soil grading, get the problem addressed immediately by making mechanical adjustments as needed. If you reside in a region which has high water tables and find water in your crawl space throughout the year, look into having specialized water removal systems installed like French Drains or sump pumps as warranted. There are many specialized companies that deal with this type of equipment and with the proper configuration, most water can be diverted and controlled to help minimize that which is available directly under the structure.

Once corrective action regarding water levels in crawl spaces have been implemented, it is important to understand that it is highly unlikely you will be able to create or maintain a moisture free space. In other words, one should only hope to “control and keep in check” moisture levels so you are able to minimize mold and decay fungus growth. If you have occasional problems with moisture from time to time and do not have the need for major drainage or water management equipment, you might find some of the more traditional mechanical devices for keeping moisture in check to be an option and helpful. There are several types of products to help minimize moisture problems and if you have a damp crawl space, basement or attic, some or all of these options might be well suited.

First, be sure you have enough air flowing into the space. This applies to either crawl spaces or attics. Though these usually have enough ventilation, having more is sometimes needed. For crawl spaces, the use of TEMP VENTS can prove to be quite helpful. These are thermo-controlled which means they open when it’s hot and close when it’s cold automatically. Traditional vents are manually operated and tend to both break, causing them to be locked either open or closed, or just forgotten about and then left either open or closed all the time. Temp Vents come in many colors and will last a long time providing automatic service so you don’t loose heat when it’s cold and you don’t trap moisture when it’s wet. You should have at least one installed for every 10 feet of wall space for the area needing ventilation. If you need to get the air moving to insure that which is evaporating doesn’t get wood levels of the home high with moisture, install some POWER VENTS. These look like the Temp Vent but in fact have motors and fans built into the vent so it will literally suck air out of crawl spaces along with all that unwanted water in the air due to high humidity and evaporation. They can even be configured with special DUCTS W/ADAPTORS so you can pinpoint the main point where the air will be first removed. And controlling them couldn’t be easier with the use of either a THERMOSTAT or a HUMIDISTAT. Use the Thermostat when you want them turned on based on temperature; use the Humidistat when you want them turned on based on Humidity.

Second, if you have exposed soil in your crawl or basement, get it leveled. This will help for two reasons. First, it will allow for easy movement within the space and second, it will help moisture evaporate uniformly and faster by dispersing it over a larger area. You should also consider installing some clear 4 MIL POLY on top of the dirt. This will help reduce the amount of moisture being released into the air. Though there are different guidelines to follow regarding just how much of the dirt should be covered with the 4 Mil Poly, it is important that you don’t cover the whole area. A good rule to follow is to get about 80% of the soil covered. This can be done by keeping a band uncovered 1-2 feet around the perimeter of the area covered. In other words, cover the middle of the space with the 4 Mil Poly and then leave the perimeter uncovered which would be immediately adjacent to the foundation.

Though the installation of vents and 4 Mil Poly can help minimize moisture levels, the use of some mold control products should be considered. This is particularly true if you have current growth, damage or odor problems. It can also be done as a preventive treatment which is very effective at stopping any mold from growing in the first place. Just follow this simple tip:

DON’T APPLY THE 4 MIL POLY UNTIL YOU HAVE TREATED ALL THE WOOD IN YOUR CRAWL SPACE.

In other words, you can go ahead and install either Temp Vents or Power Vents any time but be sure to do all the spraying and treating prior to installing the 4 Mil Poly. This will allow you to move about the crawl space without shredding and ripping the Poly which is very light and not made to be walked on. If you apply the moisture barrier and then walk on it, you will undoubtedly rip or tear it so new material will have to installed. For this reason, do all your spraying and vent work prior to the any moisture barrier being laid out.

Once you have corrected moisture issues and feel you have adequately diminished the amount of water which will be available in either your attic or crawl space, the need for applying curative or preventive mold products may still be warranted. This is particularly true when either location is subject to moisture levels that will fluctuate throughout the year. Although keeping moisture levels minimized will help, it is not always possible to keep them at levels below that which is needed for mold to grow. In such cases there are several products which can be applied to prevent mold growth, odor or damage.

If you had a moisture problem which has since been corrected and you believe the mold will not be able to grow again, you may only have a lingering mold odor which has been persistent. This odor may last indefinitely since it requires very little moisture to remain active. Odors are alive and even the slightest bit of moisture will allow the odor to thrive. Furthermore, a “moldy” or “mildewy” smell is usually a good indicator that somewhere there is something growing. To deal with both the odor and any mold that may be growing, apply the MOLD BLASTER throughout crawl spaces and attics. Mold Blaster features a dual action design which both eliminates mold odors and kills off any mold or fungi which is growing. Use either a SPRAYER or FOGGING MACHINE to make the application. Although many of our Sprayers will do the job, the Fogging Machine is probably the easiest way to get it applied and will enable you to get both fast and equal coverage. If you have an attic or crawl space which will need regular applications throughout the year, investing in a Fogging Machine will make sense. For spaces which have been properly vented along with having moisture barriers laid in place, it is still quite common to fight odor issues throughout the year. Use the Mold Blaster 2-3 times or whenever moisture is high and you should be able to keep both odor and mold growth under control and in check.

If you are concerned about decay fungus and want more then something that will just kill off mold growth, apply some TIMBOR or BORACARE. These are borate or boron based materials which will inhibit or prevent any mold from growing. The difference between these two materials is that Timbor should be used when prevention is the main reason why you are making an application. Timbor is a wettable powder and when mixed with water can be sprayed over wood which you want to protect. However, the powder does not penetrate wood well so the end result is that a protective skin will be in place which will effectively stop any mold or fungus from growing. Boracare works the same way and can be applied to the same areas. However, Boracare has penetrating characteristics. In other words, it will get to the root of the mold or fungus because it migrates through wood which is treated. This could be critical if you have wood which is hosting decay fungus. Since the root of the mold or fungus is most likely down inside the wood, you will get much better control by using the Boracare. It’s odorless and can be applied to sill plate, rafters, floor joists, sub flooring, decking and basically anything which is made of wood or wood products on which mold or decay fungi could live. The most common way to apply Boracare is with one of our Sprayers. Some feature special nozzles or extensions which can be very helpful in making the treatment. Boracare can also be used in one of our Fogging Machines so if you have either attics or crawl spaces which are hard to walk through, the Fogger could be the best way to get the material applied.

MOLD CONTROL IN WALL VOIDS

Since it only takes a certain amount of moisture to enable mold or fungus spores to prosper, wall voids are good areas for such outbreaks. What makes this more of a problem then others is the fact that such outbreaks can many times go unnoticed. Moisture can accumulate inside either interior or perimeter walls of any structure originating from sources like water pipes, air conditioning lines, vents or leaks. Once inside the wall, moisture can lead to fungus growth which could be either decay fungi or toxic mold. Though we don’t recommend treating air ducts for mold and mildew related growth (hire a professional company to do the work for you), we do have special equipment designed for the treatment of wall voids.

As with other mold control, you first need to determine just where the source of moisture is originating. If there is a leaky roof or pipe involved, get it repaired before treatment. If the moisture is due to normal condensation and can’t be avoided, determine if you want to treat on a regular basis using a product like MOLD BLASTER. As explained in previous sections of this article, Mold Blaster will both kill off mold and mold related odor. However, it won’t protect against decay fungus or mold which. For this, apply the BORACARE. Though Timbor can be used when treating exposed walls, crawl spaces or other open areas, it is not suggested when wall voids are involved. Stick with the Boracare – it will do a much better job of penetrating the wood which will insure better results.

Since applications into wall voids involve spraying side ways into a small space, liquid materials tend to simply run down to the bottom of the void due to gravity. This naturally leads to poor coverage so the use of either a FOAMING TOOL or a FM7807 may be needed. The Foaming Tool will turn either Mold Blaster or Boracare into a shaving cream like material so that it will do a much better job of “filling” the void. The foam tends to keep the material in contact with the wood which needs protection or treatment so that more of the chemical being applied is absorbed. You will need some FOAMING AGENT when using the device. If the space involved is large, the FM7807 could prove to be a good tool to use since the hose extension on it allow for directional sprays of a mist into small areas. Commonly used for spraying and cleaning air ducts and the flexible ducts that channel air for both heating and cooling buildings, the FM7807 is ideal for applying either Mold Blaster or Boracare. Just make sure to make enough solution needed for the area you are misting and once an access hole has been created, the FM7807 will make short work of any space which needs to be treated. Of course, this device can be used for applying products to crawl spaces and attics as well should these areas need treatments.

Fungus is among us and it’s not going away! Long before and surely long after man is gone, fungus spores will be available floating around looking for prime surfaces on which to land and grow. Though most fail and die off, some will find ideal locations that supply both food and moisture. Such growth will surely lead to cosmetic issues and can lead to more significant problems like decay fungus or toxic mold. Protecting your home and belongings to the damaging affect of mold is the smart thing to do. The use of the products listed above can both kill off growing mold as well as prevent more from growing. Treat with required amounts using the special equipment we list and you will be able to keep mold and fungus growth minimized.



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