How do I get rid of weevils?

If you read our WEEVIL CONTROL article, you’ll learn the first thing you need to do is get rid of their food supply. Typically this will be something in your cupboard or pantry.

Once their food is removed, you’ll need to treat. A good product for these areas is the PHANTOM AEROSOL. Its odorless and non repellent so foraging weevils will readily walk over the treatment. This assures they’ll pick up a lethal dose and die.

Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Next, set out some WEEVIL TRAPS. If you do a good job treating, the traps won’t catch many but by having them in place, enable you to monitor the problem so you know its gone for good.

Xlure Trap: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/xlure-beetle-trap

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

Hi, I saw your products for preventing/capturing skinks. Do you need to apply the products all year? I wasn’t sure if it was necessary once the weather turns colder or if we should assume that the skinks are active year round. Thanks.

The skink products listed in our article can be used like regular pest control products. For example, the PEST RID GRANULES and PEST RID SPRAY applied around the home can be done monthly whether you see skinks or not. No doubt renewing the application will insure they don’t come back any time soon. But if you want to take a few months off during the cold season when they might be active, you should be okay. Activity will vary from region to region so just be sure and skip only if they’re dormant.

Pest Rid Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/granule/pest-rid-exempt-granules-2-pound

Pest Rid Spray: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/pest-rid-exempt-liquid-repellent

Another option is to apply some every 3 months after 3 initial applications. So for the first 3 months, treat once a month to insure they’re gone and stay gone. After that, reapply every 3 months. Granted the product won’t last months but it should be around long enough to give you 1-2 months of protection and if they do show before 3 months, treat immediately.

As for the SKINK TRAPS; they’re best used inside and should be replaced every 3 months. Since its typically warm inside the home, keeping the traps installed year round is common and generally the best way to proceed.

Lizard Traps: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/scorpion-insect-lizard-15-pk

More information on this pest can be found here:

Skinks: http://www.bugspray.com/article/reptiles.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS:   Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

EJECTOR PUMPHello, I found your info very informative, however, I am still looking for the silver bullet on my drain flies. I have a basement in Colorado and we have a sewer ejector pit and pump for the bathroom, approximately 3′ around and 3′ in diameter. We have drain flies coming out the small cracks in the lid but do not wish to open it up and wish to open up only a small portion of the lid and drop a small bug bomb inside to kill them and the eggs. It’s extremely key that we find the correct bomb that can 1.) drop into this small 3’x3′ space, but 2.) kill not only the adults but the eggs. All other products are useless in this application as anything I pour into the drains just settles at the bottom of the sewer ejector pit and we believe they are all living and thriving on the underside of the lid and the sides, so we need bomb them but it must be proven to kill the eggs. Please do give us some of your proven ideas and/or products as we would greatly appreciate it!

Its interesting how we get requests all the time for products that don’t exist. Simply put, there is no such “fogger” like the one you seek. And I don’t foresee any such product coming to market that will perform like what you want.

I say this for many reasons. The big reason is that the place where you need to control this pest is basically an “uncontrollable pest environment”. There is so much raw sewage that no chemical can withstand the harsh environment. So even if you were to remove the lid and spray heavy amounts of liquids (which are stronger than aerosols), your effort would be in vain. True you would kill some. But these pests live under and in the excrement so they are essentially hidden and protected from things like chemicals that might otherwise hurt them. And once the treatment dissolves and washes away, they’ll repopulate and continue on as if nothing was done.

The good news is I’ve seen this exact problem before and I know how we dealt with successfully. And the treatment was easy.

The first thing to understand is that your system is a contained environment. Its very different from everything else around it both in the ground and above the ground.

The next thing to understand is that in this environment, nasty things can thrive. And they do. Lots of them. Most of these living organisms don’t want to leave the system and 99.9% of them are so small you can’t see them. But there are a few large enough to be seen and if programmed to migrate up seeking new areas to establish with nests (what we call “population expansion”), there is a good chance they’ll conflict with anyone in that area.

In this case it sounds like drain flies are coming up and out of the system and conflicting with you. And I’m guessing this is happening in either the bathroom or some area of the basement. So what then is the best way to treat the problem?

Well, there two things that can be done. The first is to apply PT-221 inside the tank, under the lid, around the lid seal, etc. This can be done through a slight crack you can make since the can comes with an aerosol injecting straw. This straw is thin, like the straw used on a can of WD-40, and it will fit through any tiny crack or gap. Once under the lid, you’ll want to let it run for 10-20 seconds so it can get inside thoroughly treated.

Next, seal the lid and spray the exterior of it making sure to cover all seals, valves, pipe fittings, etc.

Next, install an AEROSOL MACHINE with some METERED INSECTICIDE. Place the machine within 5 fee of the lid and from the picture you sent, it would appear you could set it on the ground where it would have a direct line of spray.

Once the machine is fitted with two AA batteries, filled with a can of Metered Insecticide and turned on, it will release a small blast of pyrethrin every 15 minutes to the area. This treatment is harmless to people or pets but deadly to flying insects like flies, moths, gnats, etc. The can will last 30-40 days and since its constantly “renewing” the treatment every 15 minutes, it will kill all hatching drain flies before they escape the area.

This treatment will yield instant results. Within one day of getting the machine installed, hatching or escaping drain flies around the lid will be dead and over a few weeks of running the machine, there will be less and less out and about laying eggs. This will effectively stop the problem. True, it might still be active in the system underground. But as explained above, there is no way to defeat it given the harsh environment so the best you can hope to do is to confine them to that area and prevent them from gaining access to your living spaces.

Now if you’re seeing them in other rooms, it could be they’re coming up through drain lines that connect to showers or sinks. For these areas you will need to spray the PT-221 down the drain and if that doesn’t stop them from emerging after treating twice a week for two weeks, install an Aerosol Machine in these rooms alongside the drain. This will stop them for sure.

In the end, the PT-221 and Aerosol Machine will prove to be the 1-2 punch that will defeat the invasion of this pest into your living spaces.

PT-221: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-221-l-17-5-oz

Aerosol 1000: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-1000

Metered Air: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/purge-iii-6-25-oz

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

I recently found maggots under the seat in my car. I vacuumed and scrubbed only to find that they are burrowed in the foam seat itself! How do I kill them when they are living inside the seat?

There are many types of maggots that can live in the foam of car seats. The reasons vary but in most cases, the foam or some fabric component used to cover it has just enough “natural” material mixed in so it will serve as a source of nutrition for the feeding maggots. When these areas are accessible and easy to reach, treatments can be done with success. But when hidden, it can require a bit more patience and time but also the right products to get control of the developing young. So how should you proceed?

First, realize there could be a lot of hidden eggs in the car which means maggots could be developing in multiple locations. Second, realize you cannot kill the eggs. So even though its easy to kill the maggots, the eggs will keep hatching for several weeks so to insure you have a strong enough treatment in place, you will probably have to do multiple applications.

Now are you able to reach all the potential nest sites? If not, manually treating will be tough. But if you’re able to get under and up into every seat or hidden area they might want to use, you should be able to spot treat with PHANTOM AEROSOL. This aerosol is odorless making it ideal for use in sensitive areas. Plus its non repellent which means insects won’t detect its present so they won’t scatter or move off the treatment. This is important because you need the developing maggots to readily walk over the chemical.

Treat all potential nest areas once a week for 6 weeks and the problem should be eliminated. One can will be enough and if you treat at night when you know the car will be sitting for a few hours, the treatments will not pose a hazard to anyone using the car. And its important the treatments get a chance to settle and do their job undisturbed so leaving the auto to sit for 5-10 hours a day is important so everything can work.

Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

The other option would be slightly more costly but a lot easier to employ. This option would use an automatic AEROSOL MACHINE to do the treating. This machine runs on batteries and should be turned on at night and placed on the floor of the car so its pointing toward the areas with the problem.

Inside the machine would be a can of METERED INSECTICIDE which is a pyrethrin based spray that will kill developing maggots and their adult stages. By letting it run every night (it releases a small blast of chemical every 15 minutes), it will keep killing hatching maggots every day. This will interrupt the cycle and in turn, prevent new eggs from being laid.

Let the machine run overnight and shut it down in the morning when the car is put to use. Do this daily for however long one can lasts. They typically will last 30-40 days when used 24 hours a day. When used only at night? One can should last 60+ days so when it eventually runs out, the problem should be resolved.

Aerosol 1000: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-1000

Metered Air: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/purge-iii-6-25-oz

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

I have LOTS of flies in my remote mountain cabin. This dry year I also had lots of bees (and mosquitoes inside the cabin which is unusual). How can I get rid of these darn flies (and also bees if they continue – it is unusual to see bees in the cabin – might be global warming).

Cabins are prone to invading insects. The smell of the wood tends to attract insects naturally drawn to this odor. And some of the most common that like the smell include bees, wasps, flies and mosquitoes.

But cabins can be made “pest proof” with the right products applied. Follow these guidelines and you’ll get rid of any nesting on the home and keep them out for the rest of the fall. Come next year, 2-3 treatments during the year will prevent new invasions from  happening.

First, dust the entire outside of the home using DRIONE DUST. This treatment should be applied to every crack and crevice along the siding, under soffits, around windows etc. Drione is supreme at preventing pests from using homes for nests and will last 3-6 months when applied thoroughly.

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Hand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

Dustick:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/dustick

Next, spray the homes exterior with CYPERMETHRIN. Its fast acting and highly repellent so any insects landing on treated surfaces will die. But for the most part, they’ll avoid the treated areas.

Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Lastly, install AEROSOL 1000 machines inside the home equipped with METERED INSECTICIDE. It will kill all flying pests like mosquitoes, flies, etc. One refill will last 30-40 days and you’ll need one machine for every 400 sq/ft of area.

Aerosol 1000:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-1000

Metered Air: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/purge-iii-6-25-oz

More information on this pest can be found here:

Cluster Flies: http://bugspray.com/cluster-fly.html

Mosquito Control:  http://bugspray.com/articles98/mosquito.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

The other morning just before dawn, my husband and I heard something scratching and knocking in our attic. This lasted for a couple hours and then stopped completely. There is an opening in the fascia and there was a weed tree that grew up against the gutter where the hole is. The same morning I heard the noises I cut the tree down and set a trap on the ground by the hole. After 2 days we have not heard any other noises and have not caught anything. Is it safe to assume the critter is gone and can we repair the fascia?

Its always possible that whatever was in the attic has since moved out. But there is a good chance odors are in place that will lead to more animals coming around so don’t think this problem is “over”. Your best way to proceed right now is to first do a little bit of “testing” first to make sure the problem isn’t still active. Sealing up entry points when animals are using them can make for worse problems so don’t do anything just yet until you’re sure nothing is still using the space.

So to see if they are still active, you’ll first need to get up in the attic and remove any droppings or other evidence you find. Next, make sure you have no food laying around the home (like pet food or bird seed) that might be attracting animals. Pet food and bird seed used for bird feeders are classic attractors that lead to problems in the home.

Once these attractors are removed, let the area sit for at least 2 weeks and see if you “hear” or see anything during this time. At the end of 2 weeks, if don’t hear anything or find anything new in the attic, its possible they’ve moved out and away (whatever it was). At that time you can proceed with doing the closure.

But if you find new evidence, droppings or hear sounds, let us know whats happening and we’ll try to further advise on how to proceed based on what’s happening.

Cheers,
Jonathan
Customer Care
U-Spray Bugspray
www.bugspray.com
Toll Free: 1-800-877-7290

 

I have about 30 days until a new tenant moves into a condo. There has been an issue with German cockroaches, which has gotten worse in the last couple years. While the unit is empty, I want to do everything possible to eliminate the ones already there, and prevent more from migrating in. I am going to take the advice from your German Roach Control article, and get the baits, traps, and Drione. My question is what should I do about the carpets? They have been steam-cleaned. Once they are dry, would applying Drione around the edges of the carpet, along the baseboards, be effective/safe? (The new tenant has an 8-year-old daughter, who I believe can be trusted not to lick the carpet!) Would it be advisable to treat the whole carpet with something? Many thanks in advance, Ms. M.

Empty apartments, condo’s and homes are easy to treat and gives you the best chance of gaining control of any insect problem. The list of what you intend on getting is near complete but there is at least one more thing I suggest you consider using. So here’s my suggestion on how you should proceed..

First, start with the ROACH GEL. Get it applied to cabinets and closets where you think the problem originated. Vacant units will be short on food and any roaches still around will quickly accept your offering since they’ll no doubt be hungry. So initially, just apply the gel and let it sit for 7-10 days before using any other product.

Roach Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/maxforce-magnum-roach-gel-1-oz

After 10-12 days, go to work with DRIONE. Applying this to every common wall or other entry route into the unit will help keep neighboring roaches out since they will avoid the Drione. Use it under electric outlet covers, switch plate covers, under cabinets, in ceiling light fixtures and even in any wall void you can penetrate. Treatments with Drione will last a good 6-12 months if not longer and essentially will put in place a barrier through which the roaches cannot enter.

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Centro 14 oz: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/centrobulb-14-oz-w12-ext

Lastly, using the Drione around the carpet edges can be done. But a better plan would be to first apply some PHANTOM. Either the aerosol or the concentrate will work. Personally I’d use the concentrate since it will create a lot more product, can be used inside and outside any structure for a wide range of pests and will no doubt be put to use more efficiently compared to the aerosol. They’re one in the same active ingredient wise but the aerosol is really for limited application sites when using a liquid isn’t practical. In this case, the liquid would be the better way to proceed.

So with the liquid, you’ll want to treat all baseboards and once it dries, then inject the Drione up under any molding that will accept some dust. This way you’ll have the best protection in place for sure. And there is no need to treat the whole carpet; just the perimeter.

Phantom EC:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/phantom-21-oz

Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Solo 454 Sprayer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/solo-1-gallon-sprayer

Lastly, by 7-10 days after the Drione and Phantom are applied, the problem should be resolved. At that time you’ll finally want to place out the traps to help monitor anything missed.

Roach Traps: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/roach-trap-6-pack

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

What do digger wasps look like? We found a wasp coming out of a hole in the ground next to our garage. It has a black head, red/orange body with a black tip and orange legs and is quite large.

What you’re describing sounds like a “golden wasp” which will generally dig nests in the ground. Golden wasps, along with hundreds of other related species are all referred to as “digger wasps”.

In fact we have hundreds of digger wasp species here in the U.S. and they range in color, size and shape. Some are solitary and some are communal.

So in some yards, you may only get single nests spaced 10-20 feet apart. But in most situations, once they start to nest, their density will increase significantly  year after year with nests eventually spaced just inches apart. And in bad cases, you can easily have thousands of nests spread around the yard.

The good news is they’re easy to control. So if you get to the point of not wanting them around, read our DIGGER WASP article for details on  how to control the problem and keep them off your land.

Digger Wasps: http://www.bugspray.com/articles99/diggerwasps.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

 

Every year I get maggots in my living room. I have moved from one place and I still get them. I find them mainly in the living room. I don’t smell any dead animals, never have yet I get these nasty things in my home every year and I keep everything clean… Please help!!!

Keeping things “clean” has nothing to do with getting or not getting maggots. You see, insects live all around us. And in most cases, 1-2 can go unnoticed. This is true even when they’re active inside our homes.

But if you have 10-20 ants, roaches, bees, wasps, crickets, maggots or anything else, you’ll probably be observing them and find this to be unacceptable when active in our living spaces. This is why doing regular pest control is well worth the time, effort and cost. By doing a little “preventive” maintenance, you can avoid this scenario from playing out year after year. And this applies no matter where you live, how often you move or how “clean” your home may be. The reality is that insects don’t discriminate when it comes to looking for a good place to live and nest; simply put most like living as close to people as they can get.

So what options do you have to prevent this from happening? There are three approaches which will work. All are covered in our maggot control article here:

Maggots: http://www.bugspray.com/article/maggots.html

The first would be to get some BEDLAM PLUS and spray the carpets along with any fabric covered furniture. Do this monthly starting in April or May and continue through the summer into the fall. This will control anything that might want to be active in the treated room including maggots.

Bedlam Plus: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/bedlam-plus-17-oz.html

The second option would be to spray some PERMETHRIN on all surfaces where you see activity. Mix 4 oz of the concentrate per gallon of water and apply 1 gallon per 800 sq/ft of floor space. This will prove a lot more cost effective compared to using the Bedlam and will work just as well. But you will need a good PUMP SPRAYER to do the applications.

Permethrin 10: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/permethrin-10

Solo 454 Sprayer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/solo-1-gallon-sprayer

The last option would be best suited if you are prone to seeing a lot of flying pests like flies, gnats, mosquitoes or noseeums. This approach uses an AEROSOL MACHINE set up in any room up to 20 ft by 20 ft. In the machine you’ll place a can of METERED INSECTICIDE which will last 30-40 days. During this time it will be releasing a small blast of pyrethrin based aerosol which will kill anything flying around as well as any maggot that might be hatching from eggs. Use this during the spring, summer and fall and shut them down once winter arrives.

Aerosol 1000: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-1000

Metered Air: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/purge-iii-6-25-oz

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

Do you have a product that kills and repels ticks and spiders? Mainly ticks.

Yes. In fact we have many. Ticks are usually active in the lawn, ground cover and wild areas surrounding the home. Spiders can be active there too but most of our customers seem to have them on the home. To kill and repel both, we have a wide range of products that will do the job. But if I was to reduce the options to 1-2, I’d say go with CYONARA RTS for small yards (1/4 acre or less). But if the yard is 1/2 acre or if you anticipate spraying on a regular basis, get the BIFEN XTS concentrate and a 20 GALLON HOSE END SPRAYER. This will prove more economical in the long run.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Cyonara RTS:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Bifen XTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen-xts-concentrate.html

Hose End: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/gilmour-20g-390

Spiders:  http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/spiders.html

Ticks:  http://www.bugspray.com/ticks.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

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