Apartment building has six units. Two units down from me found bed bugs. Can I spray to keep them out of my unit? I haven’t seen any yet but I’m real worried.

Spraying before bedbugs enter a living area is smart. If treating before they’re established, you can apply a minimum amount of material and still be able to prevent an outbreak. This translates to less cost, less effort and less hazard needed in the the living environment.

To accomplish this goal, use GENTROL. Mix one vial with 1 gallon of water and apply the mixed solution to 800 sq/ft. Treatments will last 3-6 months and will prevent juveniles from developing to reproducing adults. This would be the least protective application but one which would prevent an outbreak.

GENTROL VIAL


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You’ll need a good PUMP SPRAYER to apply the Gentrol; be sure to spray baseboards, carpeting, furniture, etc. Basically all the flooring – especially where they’re likely to enter or nest. If possible, make sure local hallways get treated too.

SOLO BUGSPRAY SPRAYER

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Since Gentrol will only work on eggs and growing juveniles, it won’t affect adults. So if you want to include a killing agent for adults, add ESSENTRIA IC to the tank. It will kill foraging active bedbugs (and other insects) and can be added with the Gentrol in the same tank at the same time. Use 4 oz per gallon of water with 1 vial of Gentrol per 800 sq/ft of floor space.

Now its important to understand Essentria will be fast acting but won’t last long. After 2-3 weeks, residuals will break down and be gone but the Gentrol will still be very active for months to come.

ESSENTRIA IC

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Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

What do you have for winter moths? I live in Massachusetts and we have them active now. Seems like its getting worse this past week. Some years there are caterpillars in the trees all summer and we spray if we see them but didn’t this year. Now I’m seeing hundreds of them crawling on my trees. Anything strong enough to kill them now?

Winter moths (aka: Operophtera brumata) are actually quite active in the fall. Its what makes unique compared to other species. Here’s their story..

Operophtera brumata larvae

In the spring, they’ll hatch from eggs and their larvae will feed on leaves and new plant foliage. They’re little green worm like critters and you’ll notice webbing in your trees where they’re active. Here’s a close up image of one feeding. As they feed, they’ll defoliate trees ultimately leading to disease and eventually tree death if left untreated.

What makes this moth unique is that in the fall, especially November, the adults hatch from their pupae even as it gets cold. They can do this because for the most part, cold doesn’t bother them. Once they hatch, they’ll remain active until the coldest part of winter which is usually in January.

WINTER MOTH

Females can’t fly so they’ll hunker down on tree trunks, foundation walls, etc. They’re hard to see (they have natural camouflage) but they’ll lay in wait attracting males.

Males will fly to them, mate and leave. Females will then lay eggs on the trunk of the tree which will hatch the following spring and start their cycle all over.

The big problem with this moth is the numbers they’ll produce. Females will typically lay 100-200 eggs a season and she’ll leave them all over vulnerable tree trunks. Trees which get them typically see the problem escalate from year to year since females can lay so many eggs. And they don’t discriminate which tree they attack.

So to answer your question; you should treat now. CYONARA RTS can be used and for a few trees, it will do the job. It simply hooks to your garden hose should be sprayed up the tree trunk 10 feet and then to the ground. Be sure to spray the ground under the drip line of infected trees. Females may forage there or find some areas to lay eggs so the ground should be protected too. One jug of Cyonara will be enough for treating up to an 1/4 acre stand of trees.

CYONARA RTS

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For 1/2 acre lots or larger, go with BIFEN XTS. Its concentrated and can cover a much larger area. Use 1/3 oz per gallon of water if you want to apply it with a PUMP SPRAYER. But it can also be used in a HOSE END SPRAYER.

BIFEN XTS

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Expect to treat twice now, in the fall. And come the spring, it would be wise to spray at least once whether you see activity or not.


 

 

SOLO BUGSPRAY SPRAYER

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20 GALLON HOSE END SPRAYER

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Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS:   Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

I have a small back yard with a swimming pool. The whole area is about 200ft X 50ft. I paid about a $1000 for mosquito control this year and I think I an do it cheaper and more often by myself. I have contemplated buying a backpack sprayer. Is that overkill? Also, my wife insists on natural insecticides. What would you recommend for this area? Thanks for your help!

No doubt you can do this work yourself. It will save you cost wise but more importantly, I’m certain you’ll get better results if you stay on top of it making sure to treat once every 7-10 days. And I bet you won’t spend $200.00 a year for chemical; it will probably more around $100.00 for a 4-6 month supply. And that’s for the “organic” option. If you were to use a traditional chemical, the cost would be 25-50% less.

So based on the square footage (around 10,000 sq/ft), you won’t be able to use a liquid effectively. You’ll definitely need a mist to get good coverage.

So the “Cadillac” option would be our MIST BLOWER. And it would not be “overkill”. I use mine for misting the house foundation which is much less of an area. But I have an acre lot which is where it really helps. I can treat it all in 7-8 minutes so for your 1/4 acre area? It will take more time to fill the tank then it will to spray! But you’d get great coverage and whats wrong with saving a little time?

SOLO BACK PACK MIST BLOWER

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A smaller option would be our electric FM6208. Its plenty powerful and would be able to handle the job almost as easy. True you’ll need a long extension cord. But it uses a 1 gallon tank to store mixed chemical, has a volume control knob so you can keep the flow regulated and it will blow the mist almost as far as the mist blower.

FOGMASTER 6208

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As for what to use for chemical? Go with ESSENTRIA IC. It uses food grade components that won’t be a hazard to the local environment yet it works well on flying pests like gnats, mosquitoes and noseeums. Mix 4 oz per gallon of water to start and expect to use about 1 gallon for the whole lot when treating. During the season, expect to fog once a week; once things are under control, every 10-14 days to maintain a pest free air space.

ESSENTRIA IC

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Lastly, if you decide to use a traditional chemical, our 36.8% PERMETHRIN will do the job efficiently. Its odorless, only requires 1 oz per gallon of water (Essentria will use 4 oz per gallon) and the residual will prove to last a bit longer.

TENGARD PERMETHRIN

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Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

 

 

 


FRUIT FLY

FRUIT FLY

The fruit fly is one of the most common pests found in and around the home. Fruit flies get their name because they tend to fly around sweet food like fruit. Although fruit flies will thrive on just about anything organic, fruit flies have become a major pest in the home due to the increase of vegetable and fruit consumption. People are eating more vegetables and fruit and with this consumption comes the increase of fruit fly infestations.

 

FRUIT FLY BIOLOGY

Fruit fly problems can develop overnight. The typical route of entry is via the grocery store. Fruit fly eggs are indiscreetly carried home on produce purchased at the grocery. Fruit fly eggs are already laid on the fruit or fruit fly adults simply hitch a ride on the foodstuff and emerge when unpacked. Developing fruit fly pupae are hard to see and typically go unnoticed. Within a few days they will start to hatch and the problem will quickly escalate.

 

FRUIT FLY INFESTATIONS

Once in your kitchen, fruit flies will find a ready supply of food. They’ll forage about trying to get established.

FRUIT FLIES ON ORANGE

FRUIT FLIES ON ORANGE

Fruit flies love garbage disposals, garbage cans and fruit bowls. But they will be drawn to ketchup, tv screens, computer monitors, showers, tubs and even pets.

Washing produce will help by removing fruit fly eggs and pupae but it’s hard to get 100% of the problem removed. And once they hatch, fruit flies will hover over the sink, garbage pails or fruit bowls searching for anything sweet to eat and on which to lay eggs.

 

WHAT DO FRUIT FLIES LOOK LIKE?

Fruit flies are small, about 1/8 of an inch, and have bright “red to orange” eyes which distinguishes them from other fly species. Fruit fly eggs will hatch in less than two days and young will eat and pupate in under 8 days. These stages are hard to see; they typically will hide and are quite small.

Although most infestations don’t get huge, fruit flies will be persistent and aggravating pest if left unattended. The following video shows a closeup of two fruit flies where you can see their large red eyes.


FRUIT FLY TREATMENTS

The best way to get fruit fly control is to first locate their food and where they’re focused. If you eliminate what they’re eating and breeding on, fruit fly control will be quicker and more complete. Once you remove their food source, the following treatment options will help control them in other areas where they may be nesting.


SPACE SPRAYING FOR FRUIT FLIES

For most people, killing the fruit flies that are flying around with a space spray seems like the best thing to do. Space sprays are products that can be applied to the air and are safe for kitchens and other open areas where fruit flies like to hang around. For these locations, products like PT-565 is a good option. It uses pyrethrin as the active ingredient and is both fast acting with very little having to be applied for quick results.

Treat by spraying for 5-10 seconds per room with activity. Expect to retreat daily for 1-2 weeks to break the cycle. This is needed since treatments won’t last but 15-30 minutes and that means hatching pupae will re-infest rooms within a day if you don’t stick to the routine.

PT 565 XLO

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The organic choice is just a effective compared to the PT-565. Known as FLYING INSECT KILLER it too will work quickly and will only require a little bit to be applied where you see activity. Both products can be used daily as needed but be prepared to use either for 1-2 weeks to break the local cycle..

Flying Insect Killer 14 oz

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The big problem with space sprays is they don’t last long. Once applied, their active will only kill adults and larvae for 30-60 minutes. After that, hatching pupae will live so if you don’t treat 1-2 a day for 2-3 weeks, the problem can persist. And if you miss just one room where they’re breeding, you’ll never get rid of them.


WHAT IF THE FRUIT FLIES ARE COMING FROM THE SINK DRAIN?

In fact fruit flies love sink drains. Sinkerators can harbor exactly what they need but in fact, the slime and grudge most any drain line can have will be enough to sustain a good population of drain flies.

If you see them coming from the drain line or find them hanging around a sink, its highly likely this is their source for food and maybe even being used for egg laying.

To take this area away from them, treat down the drain with SURVIVORS once a week. This product is nothing but an enzyme that will “eat” the grudge, slime and other organic matter they need to live.

To treat, simply pour 3-4 oz down the drain once a week for 4 weeks.

SURVIVORS

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Next, spray down the drain with PT-CYKICK as needed. This should be done on any day when you don’t treat with Survivors and it can be done 2-3 times a week if needed. Cykick will kill developing stages and provide relief until the Survivors gets a chance to do its thing and take away their nests.

PT-CYKICK
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FRUIT FLY SPACE SPRAYING MACHINE

For environments where fruit flies are a never ending problem, consider installing an AUTOMATIC AEROSOL MACHINE. These machines are small, around the size of a cigar box, and can be placed on a shelf or hung on the wall. They take just 2 “AA” batteries to power them for 8-12 months and once installed, will do the treatments for you. Basically they’re configured to release a quick 1 second “blast” of space spray every 15 minutes. By constantly releasing this spray, flying pests like fruit flies won’t stand a chance of living where machines are installed. Each machine can manage up to 400 sq/ft efficiently and they can be installed anywhere in the home, garage, etc.

AUTOMATIC AEROSOL MACHINE

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Inside the machine you’ll need to install a small can which contains the same pyrethrin based active like the PT-565. METERED INSECTICIDE is the more common option used and cans will last 30 days when the machine is set to go off every 15 minutes. It does have a slight odor and designed for use in garages, basements, barns and outside areas. One can will last 30 days and should will control any flying pest like flies, mosquitoes, moths, gnats, wasps and more..

METERED INSECTICIDE

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For living areas like the kitchen or bathroom, go with CLEAR ZONE refills. This option is odorless and safe to use where food is prepared.

CLEAR ZONE

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FRUIT FLY TRAPS

Lastly, fruit flies can be caught with traps. These devices will help reduce activity and should be deployed where you see activity. The NATURAL CATCH FRUIT FLY TRAPS is discreet and small making it ideal for use on countertops. The FRUIT FLY GLASS TRAPS. is decorative and can be hung in kitchens, dining rooms, etc. and blend where the Natural Catch might otherwise be noticed.

Both traps will help keep down adult populations throughout the warm season and in some cases, stave off an infestation by catching reproducing females before they have a chance to lay eggs. But once a problem is established, traps alone won’t get rid of them for good.

Natural Catch Fruit Fly Trap

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Fruit Fly Glass Trap

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Another trap worth considering is the FLY WEB LIGHT TRAP. This device is small, plugs into the wall and works on a wide range of flying pests. If you’re unsure just what species of fly you have active, consider this trap a sure fix. It uses a small glue board to capture flying pests as they enter the capture area and will work on all kinds of flies, gnats, mosquitoes, no seeums and more.

FLY WEB LIGHT TRAP

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This video shows how easy it is to treat for fruit flies in the home using some of the products mentioned above.


Fruit flies can be a persistent pest in the home. Though most common in the summer, they can persist throughout the winter if they find a location in the home on which to breed and nest. Treat with the Gentrol for long term control and keep some of the Fruitfly Traps out when adults are active. Use one of the space sprays to knock out persistent adults and you’ll be able to keep them under control.


CONTACT US

Give us a call if you need further help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open Monday through Thursday, 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM. On Friday, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM and on Saturday, 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time).

Email questions here:   http://www.bugspray.com/about-us/contact-us

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Learn more about BUGSPRAY.COM and why it’s never been easier or safer to do your own pest control.




Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around to answer your questions and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!


 

I am being invaded by Woolly worms. Stomped 50 in one day. Kill about 14 a day ever since. How can I KILL these things. What can I spray around the perimeter of my house to kill them on contact?

Woolly worms are the larval stage of the Tiger Moth. They’re quite strong and will seek safe refuge in the fall to over winter during their pupation stage. During the summer they’ll feed on plant and tree leaves and once the larvae reach maturity and fall arrives, they’ll migrate about the area looking for cracks, crevices and other “good” places to hide.

WOOLLY WORM TIGER MOTHFor this reason they’ll readily target homes. They’ll crawl up under siding, under soffits, around light fixtures and pretty much any place on the home out of direct sunlight with some type of shelter overhead.

To stop them, use BIFEN XTS  and SPREADER STICKER. Add .5 oz of Bifen and 1 oz of Spreader Sticker to a gallon of water and spray the gallon over 500 sq/ft of area. The Bifen  will both kill them and repel them and you’ll see quick results. Generally they’ll die within 30-60 minutes of being sprayed.

BIFEN XTS

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 The Spreader Sticker will be key to the mixture. It enhances the Bifen so it will effectively penetrate the thick wool and protective design of this caterpillars exterior.

SPREADER STICKER


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Use a good PUMP SPRAYER to apply the mixed product at the rate of 1 gallon per 500 sq/ft of home siding or lawn.

SOLO BUGSPRAY SPRAYER

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You can also use a HOSE END SPRAYER to make the application.

20 GALLON HOSE END SPRAYER

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Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

We can’t for the life of us figure out where these hoards of wasps are coming from! They are in our bedroom and we find them dead and also crawling at times from there. We are dealing with over 50-100 a day. We have two crawl space attics on opposite sides of the room; could there be a nest in there? We have searched inside and out but have not checked in there. My husband has been stung a few times and welts are left so we are somewhat hesitant. If you say there could be nests in there we will check. This is awful. We live in a two story house and it’s older. Never had a wasp problem like this before.

No doubt you have wasps targeting your home for winter hibernation. And though there could be some in your small attic spaces, it more likely they are using one of the exterior walls to enter. I say this because if they were getting in the attic, they’d probably stay there. That being said, you’ll need to treat the homes exterior and attic spaces to stop the invasion because once a home gets “scented” as a good place to invade, it will continue to attract wasps for many years to come. The good news they can be stopped using a dust and spray treatment.

In fact this is happening all around the country right now as they prepare for winter. No doubt they’re just going up under the homes siding, through soffits, around gutters, etc. and getting into the voids of the home. From there they’ll naturally find their way into living areas. Since any home has so many ways for them to get in, there is no way you’ll be able to isolate them all. For this reason its best to just treat it all and take care of them for good. More info on this behavior is detailed in our article here:

Wasp Control: http://bugspray.com/article/wasp.html#wasps-hibernate-during-the-winter

As you’ll learn in our article, you’ll need to treat with DRIONE DUST. It will kill them on contact and fill all the voids they’re using so it will kill any hidden from view. 1 lb will be enough to treat the average 2500 sq/ft home.

DRIONE DUST

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Use a HAND DUSTER or DUSTICK to apply the Drione around the homes exterior. You could climb a ladder to apply it up high but the Dustick will make it so much easier and well worth the investment. And be sure to get all four sides of the home from ground level up to the highest areas you can reach.

HAND DUSTER

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DUSTICK

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For the attic spaces, use the 1 lb of Drione for every 800 sq/ft of space. Apply it with a DUSTIN MIZER. This device is manually cranked to blow the dust out and will propel it 25-30 feet no problem.

DUSTIN MIZER

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After dusting, let the Drione sit for a day and then spray the exterior of the home with CYPERMETHRIN. This active is highly repellent to wasps and they’ll avoid surfaces where its been applied. Mix 1 oz per gallon of water and use 1 gallon of mixed material for every 500 sq/ft of surface area.

VIPER CYPERMETHRIN


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Use a good HOSE END SPRAYER or PUMP SPRAYER to apply the Cypermethrin. Treatments should last 3-4 weeks but if you notice them coming back sooner, retreat where needed. The Drione will last 6-12 months so once the problem is under control, you should treat once a year to make sure they don’t return.

20 GALLON HOSE END SPRAYER

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20 GALLON HOSE END SPRAYER

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Is your product safe for use around dogs? I moved to Lake Worth, Florida about a month ago from southeastern Wisconsin. I have 3 miniature dachshunds. Within the last few weeks one of my dogs has caught 2 big frogs. Both times it was about 4:00pm. This required 2 visits to the emergency vet. The vet told me that they’re an invasive species from Australia, highly toxic and can cause seizures and death. I never want my dogs to be sick or hurt. Is there anything I can do to get the frogs/toads out of my yard and keep them out or anything else I can do to keep my dogs safe? Please help! Any advice would help. I have been taking them out on their leashes but I rented a house with a yard so my dogs could run around. They have always had a backyard to run around in.

PEST RID GRANULES and PEST RID SPRAY won’t pose a hazard to your dogs and should be applied around the yard to keep the frogs out. Made with food grade actives, it has a slight odor and bad taste which works well at repelling a wide range of reptiles, amphibians and insects. But to people and pets, it won’t be noticed once applied and even if they were to ingest some, it won’t do a thing. In fact it won’t hurt the frogs; its just a repellent. But frogs don’t like it and will avoid crossing it so it can be used to keep them away.

So for your situation, you need to put in place a barrier of Pest Rid by using both granules and spray. In most cases there will be one or two sides mostly used. So do some inspecting to see which direction that might be and if possible, treat those sides extra well. But in general, you’ll need to treat all three sides of the property since they could be coming from any direction.

Pest Rid GranulesSo to treat, you’ll need to apply the granules first. 1 lb will cover up to 250 sq/ft and should be applied once a month.
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PEST RID SPRAYAfter the granules are applied, spray over the top with PEST RID SPRAY. 1 gallon will cover up to 500 sq/ft and should be applied at least once a month. In some cases the spray will be needed during the month for spot treating. Remember, since the spray gets immediate results, it can be applied as needed. So if you locate a spot they seem to like inside the yard or maybe someplace in the front yard, be sure to treat right away.


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Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS:   Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

My car seems to be infested with boxelder beetles. Is there anything safe to use on your car or do you have any suggestions on how to get rid of them? They are not IN the car (yet) but they are in all the crevices and under the hood. I’m desperate!

First, you can and definitely need to kill off the boxelder bugs active and roosting on the car. Once they start doing this, they’ll have the location (in this case the car) scented and marked. Its kind of like GPS; once they mark it, they’ll keep returning to it over and over.

Now if you were to move your car to another location, maybe 1-2 miles away, they’d probably leave and not return. But as long as the car is kept at the current property, it will continue to attract the current population and even after you kill the ones using it, other boxelder bugs from the local area will be attracted and in turn, start roosting in it too. This happens because boxelder bugs leave a “scent” or pheromone on good roosting locations. This scent is used to alert others about this “good place to live”.

So to get rid of them, you’ll need a quick killing aerosol. I have used FS MP AEROSOL on my car for ants and it worked great. I’ve used it on stinkbugs, roaches and boxelder bugs around the home too so I know it will kill instantly for all these pests. This is important. Plus, it will also flush them out.

So I recommend you get a can and spray all cracks and crevices where you think they’re hiding or nesting. Typically this will be all the way around the seal found on the doors, around the trunk and motor hood. But I’ve found insects will infest bumpers, gas cap compartments and wheel wells so you should spray them as well.

FS MP is fast acting so any you spray will die within 10-20 seconds. And it flushes which means it will spook out hidden boxelder bugs if you get the treatment within 1-2 feet of their location. Now if you see any emerging from remote areas, be sure to treat these locations. Even if the spot appears to be really minute. They can and will take advantage of these tight location. In fact, they strive to find them.

Next, you can either leave the treatment on the car or wash it off within an hour. I had no staining or residue noticeable on my car so I choose to leave it. By leaving it on the cart, you’ll have a residual in place that will repel them so they won’t return. And if they do, they’ll die. Treatments will wash off in the rain anyway but if its dry out, they can last 1-2 weeks.

Now if you have some kind of  “special” paint job and don’t want to risk leaving it on to avoid finish issues, wash it off.
FS MP AEROSOL

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But keep in mind that if you choose to wash it off, its highly likely more will come around to nest since the car will be full of the boxelder scent. This smell is not noticeable to people. But boxelder bugs are naturally drawn to it and they can detect it from acre or more.

So to stop this from happening, spray the areas where they were nesting with PEST RID. This spray uses food grade actives which nuisance insects don’t like. They’ll avoid where the spray has been applied. Pest Rid won’t kill anything but it will keep the boxelder bugs away so they don’t infest the car again.

Pest Rid Spray


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In summary, use the FS MP Aerosol to kill active boxelder bugs and leave it on to repel anymore from moving onto the car. But if you want to remove the FS MP, you can. At that point, you should get some Pest Rid repellent to make sure they don’t return once the FS MP is removed.

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

 

My wife had most of her house plants set outside in the patio for most of the summer. She brought all of the plants into our house last week (we sprayed them with an organic bug spray prior to bringing the plants into the house). Within a couple of days we noticed “Small Fly Looking” bugs all over our house. What can we do to get rid of these bugs? Thank you.

In fact we’re currently getting many inquiries on this exact problem. During the summer, house plants set outside will attract a wide range of pests. Some will land for a short while and then leave. Others will use the plants for food or reproduction and this activity can go unnoticed by the untrained eye.

Once brought back inside the home, the developing pupae will hatch and the adult stage will be looking for a mate. Once impregnated, females will look for a good place to lay eggs and that’s when the problem can get established in the home.

In general they might continue to target your plants for nesting and egg laying. But many times they’ll find other locations too. Common areas they may use include sinks, drain lines, toilets, compost bins, garbage tubs, kitty litter and even ice makers. The species we see doing this include THRIPS, NOSEEUMS, FUNGUS FLIES, GNATS, MIDGES, PHORID FLIES, MOSQUITOES and  MILLER MOTHS.

To get rid of the problem, you’ll have to treat the plants with a good residual. But since this pest is flying around, a space spray will be required to insure they don’t get established in other parts of the home.

For the plants, mix 1 oz of BIFEN per gallon of water and spray them once a week for 3-4 weeks. This will kill off developing stages and after a few weeks, end the problem on the plants.

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

For the rest of the home, space spraying with PT-565 twice a day will usually kill the adults flying around. This treatment is important and should be done at least twice a day, everyday,  for 2-3 weeks. It only takes a few seconds to treat the average room and the 565 can be applied safely where people and pets are active.

PT-565: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-565-xlo

Now if you want something more automatic, install AEROSOL MACHINES with METERED INSECTICIDE. Basically this is the same material as the 565. But instead of having to manually do the treatments all the time, the machine will do the application for you. These machines are set to disperse a small 1 second blast of product every 15 minutes which insures you’ll have enough material in the air continuously all day long. Install one machine for every 400 sq/ft of area and keep them running for 30-60 days. One can of Metered Insecticide will last 30 days so expect to use 2 can’s per machine to get control of the problem. For many people the machines are the way to go. They don’t make mistakes or miss a treatment; basically they do the job for you.

Aerosol 1000: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-1000

Metered Air: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/purge-iii-6-25-oz

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
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Hi, my lawn is full of sod worms and has just been treated with pesticide about 10 days ago, however, last night i saw lots of lawn moths hovering over the lawn and i need to know what to use to get rid of them before they lay their eggs again. do i have to use a different pesticide for the lawn moth ? will i need to apply the sod worm pesticide again ? please advise, thanks, lesley

Lesley,

If you review our SOD WEBWORM article, you’ll learn you should use two main products. First, apply the BIFEN GRANULES and then second, the CYONARA RTS over the top of the granules. So at this point if the previous treatment included granules, you should be okay on that front. If not, get them down now. They’ll go to work down in the soil killing off active larvae or any that hatch from now until winter sets in.

Next, since the moths will be active for the next 1-2 months looking for a place to lay eggs, you should respray as needed. Typically this will be once a week for a few weeks for infested yards. But after a few weeks, the activity should slow at that point, once every 2 weeks should be enough. Unfortunately there is no way to kill the hatching pupae which will be emerging daily and if enough are hatching, you’ll keep seeing new moths. Don’t let them have a chance at laying eggs and by spraying weekly, you can keep this activity minimized.

Lastly, it would be wise to apply the granules once a month next spring and summer so they don’t come back.

More information on this pest can be found here:

Sod Webworms: http://bugspray.com/sod-webworms.html

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care
http://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
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