Odor control can be accomplished with a variety of products available today. First you need to determine the kind of odor you have. Then you need to minimize the conditions which are contributing to the odor. Thirdly you need to employ a material designed to counteract, mask or consume the odor. If you do all three things successfully, you will be able to reside, work or play in an environment without offensive smells.
This article will highlight different odor problems that may be encountered in the home or place of business. Then we will explain things you can do to minimize the conditions contributing to the odor. Thirdly we will explain how to use some of the latest products available for controlling these odors.
The following are some of the more common odor problems homeowners or businesses may have to deal with. Click on the one which you would like to learn more about and you will move to that section of our article.
3) MILDEW OR FUNGUS FROM WET CONDITIONS.
4) SMOKE ODORS FOLLOWING FIRE.
5) ANIMAL ODORS FROM SKUNK, RATS, BATS, RACCOON, ETC.
6) OTHER ODORS.
ODOR CONTROL FROM DEAD BODY DECAYING ^
These odors are caused by animals dying in and around the home or work place. In our business, the most common scenario is that a poison bait was used which caused a rodent such as a mouse or rat to die. If the death occurs in the attic, wall void or inaccessible crawl space, the animal will smell and in most cases the smell will last for several weeks. In some cases the animal is a squirrel, opossum or raccoon. These larger animals may smell for several months.
Other dead animal smells we deal with include birds in attics, frogs, lost pests such as snakes or gerbils, turtles, dogs, cats, and even humans who were left to decay for several days or weeks in an apartment or home. In general, the larger the animal, the longer the smell will persist and the more treating will be necessary. If you’re unsure as to what a dead body would smell like, it is most likely that there will be a large number of flies close to the odor. If you notice maggots or flies in the odor area, something organic has died and it probably is an animal.
Once the smell has been determined to be from a dead body, you should try to remove it. If you are able to find it and remove it, you may still need to treat the area with an odor enzyme to remove the persistent smell. If the animal is inaccessible, the use of these products will be ongoing until the body is able to completely decompose. Again, this may take several weeks or months, depending on the size of the animal.
DEAD BODY ODOR CONTROL PRODUCTS ^
There are three products available for the best breakdown and removal of dead body odors. Stay away from any material which is only an odor mask. There are many of those products available. Common scents include wintergreen, cherry, lemon/lime, pine or country fresh. We sell these products in both a concentrated form and aerosol used in dispensing machines. They can be used for other applications, but not for dead body odors. The problem when using odor masks for dead body odors is that the odor will continue. Since these materials only mask the odor, you will be inclined to use very heavy doses of it trying to mask the dead body smells. This over application will lead to you hating the masked smell as well because it will be so smelly that it will give you headaches and possibly nausea.
We have had other complaints of the odor of the animal mixing with the masking odor to produce a wicked smell. Again, this new smell is something which will linger for a long time and most people find the new smell worse than the dead smell! The product you should use is the ODOR DESTROYER. This product works well on most any type of odor problem. It is handy to use when the place to treat is known. It combines an enzyme and a mild masking agent so you can remove odors quickly and completely when you are able to treat specific spots.
Odor Destroyer: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/odor-destroyer
DEAD BODY IN THE WALL ODOR TREATMENT ^
One of the best ways to treat an odor issue that’s in the wall is with our water based NNZ. Using a FOAMING TOOL and some FOAMING AGENT you can inject the foam into any suspected wall void which might have the dead animal. The great thing about the foam is that it will tend to hold it’s place better in the wall which leads to better coverage of the animal which can be caught on one side. When applied, the foam will carry the NNZ onto the decaying body whereas any liquid sprayed into the wall could very easily pass the body causing it to be largely ineffective.
NNz: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
Foaming Tool: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foamers/solo-2-gal-foamer
Foaming Agent: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/foaming-agent
Be sure to treat as many of the voids that you can and try to apply the foam above the level where you think the animal is stuck. Remember that wall studs will obstruct the flow of the foam so you need to apply some into every void which is usually about every 16 inches on most traditional homes throughout the United States. The great thing about the Foaming Tool is that it will let you do this application without having to rip your walls out.
If the odor is in an attic or crawl space, you may broadcast it with a pump sprayer or a fogging machine. In rooms where the odor is present but you do not know where it is coming from, you can place small amounts of NNZ in cups or soak cotton balls and place them out. Add more placements until the odor is removed. You will need to replenish these placements as the product evaporates.
What works amazingly well is another product we sell called the ODOR ELIMINATOR. This is an aerosol which works by dismantling all odor molecules so that they “fall apart” and are not perceived as offensive in their broken down components. The Odor Neutralizer is used in small machines which run off batteries and releases a 1 second blast of aerosol every 7, 17 or 25 minutes depending on how you set it. They are small and discreet and called AEROSOL MACHINES.
Odor Eliminator: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/aerosol/odor-elminator-6-oz-refill
Aerosol 2000: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-2000
The Air Sponge will not work as well as the Odor Eliminator but for mild problems it can prove helpful. Use the Odor Eliminator where you have the odor and try to deliver either N7C or the NNZ where the odor is originating for the best results possible.
N7C: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/n-7c-64-oz
NNZ: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
Use one of our SPRAYERS to apply the Odor Destroyer when you are have access to the key areas such as the attic or crawl space. If you are unsure where the odor originates from or if the areas are hard to reach, use a FOGGING MACHINE for quick and complete coverage.
Pump Sprayer: https://bugspray.com/good/pump-sprayers
BG 2300: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/bg-my-t-lite-2300-120-v
ODOR CONTROL FROM PET OR PEOPLE URINE ^
Pet urine odors are a common problem. Puppies and kittens are likely to urinate throughout the home before they are successfully house trained. Older pets are inclined to have urinary tract problems which will lead to mistakes in the home. People may have the same problem. Children may urinate when they are young or toddlers may decide to use the living room instead of the couch because “I didn’t know better”. Elderly people may have a problem which leads to accidents that might occur on furniture or the floor. Urine is an odor which is very much alive and needs to be killed. You won’t achieve success with detergents or bleaches.
For this reason, urine odors can persist for several years if left untreated on floors, carpets, beds, furniture or any porous surface. We have dealt with some homes that would have a terrible urine odor following a rain. These were homes that had pets several years before which urinated in the basement. Water activates urine and enables it to come to life. We have many customers who experience this in a used home they buy and can’t figure out where it is coming from.
URINE ODOR CONTROL ^
To control these problems, use a product we sell called QUICK ACTION. This enzyme attacks the urine and breaks it down. Although the original formulated was created for dogs, it has since had other materials added to it which enable it to work for cats, humans and other animals. These other animals have a different urine composure, so more treatments may be necessary. When treating, you will get better and quicker results if the area treated is moist or wet. If the pet has urinated on carpeting, make an effort to pull back the carpet to treat underneath it as well. Treating on the top only may work if you are sure of the location and if you soak it enough to penetrate
Quick Action: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/quick-action
If the odor persists following a treatment, you probably need to pull the carpet up and retreat. This is important and cannot be overlooked. The wood or concrete below the carpet may be holding the urine and keeping it alive. This is particularly a problem when there is a slab below the carpet. Since slabs absorb moisture quickly, you would expect a smell following every rain storm. If animals were permitted to urinate in crawl spaces or attics, you may want to fog the Quick Action. Fogging enables you to reach far areas without having to travel in these sometimes tight spaces. It will also penetrate better and insure proper coverage. Our B&G 2300 FOGGER will pump material out quickly and will reach up to 40 feet away. We have used it to treat attics where rats, raccoons or other animals have been living for some time and the feces odor was unbearable. After several treatments, the materials were broken down and the foul odor was eliminated. For open floor spaces, one of our SPRAYERS to get proper coverage.
BG 2300: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/bg-my-t-lite-2300-120-v/
Pump Sprayer: https://bugspray.com/good/pump-sprayers
Alternatively, the use of aerosol scents generally prove easier to deploy. Flavors abound and include BABY POWDER, PINE, CHERRY, MANGO, CITRUS and others. The manufacturer changes them often so you may want to check with us to see if there are any new ones available. If you decide you want to remove the odor instead of masking it with one of the flavors above, get the ODOR ELIMINATOR refill which will remove the smell from the air. It does leave a fresh “hospital clean” type of a smell but be warned that it is not designed to mask strong Urine or Bathroom smells. You will do better with one of the scented aerosols listed above if this is what you are trying to accomplish.
Flavored Aerosol Refills: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/aerosol/aerosol-machine-6-oz-refills
Odor Eliminator: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/aerosol/odor-elminator-6-oz-refill
Aerosol 2000: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-2000
MILDEW FUNGUS ODOR CONTROL ^
Mildew and certain fungus have odors which can become a problem in the home. To successfully deal with these problems, you need to identify that it is indeed such a smell. If it is from mildew or fungus, there must be some kind of a moisture problem. The most common water problem we deal with along coastal areas and environments with high humidity involve water which accumulates in crawl spaces or basements. To deal with the odors, you must minimize the moisture.
The first place to check is outside. Make sure the grade of landscape is helping – not creating the problem. Water which is left to stand alongside the foundation will certainly lead to all kinds of problems. The grade should help to relocate water away from your home. You may need to install more gutters or adjust the grade so that rain water is able to be carried away from your home. If you have high water tables or humid conditions, moisture by itself will allow for mildew to live. Basements, foundations and crawl space dirt which collect this moisture will create an environment fungus can thrive in. You must minimize this moisture.
Lastly, if you have a crawl space with moisture seeping up from the dirt, you must install 4 Mil Poly. This poly sheeting will keep the moisture down and combined with the vents will keep the humidity down so fungus can’t survive. If you do all of the above and still have fungus living, you will need to do some spraying.
Treating for fungus is easy and has other benefits as well. The active ingredient in these products is in the boron family so the materials are safe to use around the home. They are low in odor and offer broad pest coverage. The two most commonly used in the pest control industry are TIMBOR and BORACARE. Timbor is fine to use if fungus is all that is of concern. It is a white powder mixed with water and sprayed onto joists, subfloor and sillplate. Boracare is used the same way.
Timbor: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/wettable-powder/timbor
Boracare: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/boracare-gal
Boracare offers the ability to penetrate and may prove to be the better product to use if you are subject to either termites or powder post beetles. Once treated, the wood will not be able to host decay fungus, mildew or most pests so moist basements and crawl spaces should be treated to insure they are protected. Use one of our SPRAYERS to get the needed coverage.
Pump Sprayer: https://bugspray.com/good/pump-sprayers
Now that the source of moisture has been addressed and the mildew has been controlled with one of the mildewcides, there are two products which can be applied to eliminate the odor. Either ODOR DESTROYER or NNZ will work well for this application. Each will treat 1000 sq/ft real well and both eat the mildew and the mildew odor quickly. Expect to see results immediately. If you have done a good job of eliminating the source of the odor, you probably won’t have to worry about it anymore. However, for problems which have been active for some time, you may have to do 2-3 treatments to kill off all the active spores.
Odor Destroyer: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/odor-destroyer
NNz: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
Use one of our SPRAYERS to do the application but if the area you are treating has limited access, either rent or buy our B&G FOGGER to make the job easier and more thorough. Because it creates a mist which is better suited for getting complete coverage, treatments made with the Fogger are always more complete.
Pump Sprayer: https://bugspray.com/good/pump-sprayers
BG 2300: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/bg-my-t-lite-2300-120-v
SMOKE ODOR CONTROL ^
Smoke seems to be one of the most persistent odors to eliminate. Homes which have had a fire, automobiles that have had smokers using them and processing plants where smoke is a part of the process all can be minimized if not removed.
Homes which have had a fire may have smoke odors persist for several years following the cleanup and rebuilding. Any part of the structure which is left from the original building is likely to have absorbed some smoke fumes and will continue to have that odor for some time. NNZ will work to eliminate this odor.
NNz: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
You may apply it by either spraying it with a SPRAYER or by fogging it with the B&G FOGGING MACHINE. It is important to reach every area the smoke did. Since smoke will permeate into cracks and crevices, treating them is important if you want to reduce the odor. It is best to treat the structure before rebuilding but we have many customers who call and are experiencing the problem after all the new construction has been done.
Pump Sprayer: https://bugspray.com/good/pump-sprayers
BG 2300: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/bg-my-t-lite-2300-120-v
In cases like these placing the N-100 out in cups will help. You may need to treat wall voids where the odor may be harboring. Although it involves more work when treating structures that have been repaired, it is still possible to remove the odor. It will require persistence and patience and above all else, delivering the material to the key locations where the odor is anchored.
ODOR CONTROL FROM ANIMALS ^
Animals can get into our homes, garages or sheds and over time leave quite a bit of odor. Once they are removed, their scent can persist for some time. This odor can be left by pets such as dogs, cats, ferrets, gerbils, rabbits or many others. In either case, their scent may be strong and cleansers will not remove them. The best product to use for this problem is N7C. It reacts organically and will eliminate these animal scents and is great at getting rid of many problematic smells including:
a) Skunk scent under a deck, crawl space or shed.
b) Bat smell in the attic.
c) Raccoon smell in the attic or walls.
d) Dog or cat odors in carpeting or concrete.
e) Pet smells in boxes, garages or decks.
f) Smells left behind in vacant apartments.
g) Odors which accumulate on furniture.
Links to information on: BATS CATS DOGS MICE RACCOON RATS SKUNK SQUIRRELS
N7C is great for these problems. It can be applied with a PUMP SPRAYER where you are able to reach treatment areas. If you have a crawl space that you need to saturate, use the FOGGING MACHINE RENTAL for quick coverage. Though one treatment may work, don’t be surprised if you have to do two or three since odors like these take a long time to build up and consequently take some time to break down.
Pump Sprayer: https://bugspray.com/good/pump-sprayers
BG 2300: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/bg-my-t-lite-2300-120-v
ODOR CONTROL FOR BAD SMELL ^
Although we don’t have specific directions for “other odors”, we can offer some advise and ideas to control or remove it. Such odors may include new materials in the household, processing smells from near by manufacturing plants, odors from sewer lines, garbage or animal odors from pets. This could be an odor related to something that rotted like food (meat, dairy, fruit or vegetable).
First, try to minimize the smell. If it is coming from a nearby manufacturer, you may need to begin some kind of legal process to get them to control their emissions. These are usually the hardest to deal with because you have the least amount of control over where they are coming from. Odors in your home are easier to remove. Is it from a current member of the family such as a pet or a sick person? Is it an odor left from the people you bought the home from? Is it a lingering odor from something that rotted away?
For these kind of odors, the N-100 would be ideal. It will break up the gases released by the degrading food stuff and render the odor unnoticeable quickly.
N-100: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/n-100-64-oz
Is the odor only noticed when it is warm, wet or only when the furnace is on? If the odor is coming from inside the home, you need to determine if it is from some- thing organic or man made. Organic smells can be handles with either of the enzymes we sell under the label of ODOR DESTROYER or QUICK ACTION. If it is something synthetic, you will probably have to resort to odor masking with something like the Cherry smelling CHERRY FRESH or installing the AEROSOL MACHINES. Although neither will remove the odor, they may provide enough of a mask to make it tolerable when such smells are extreme. If you install the Aerosol Machine, be sure to use the ODOR ELIMINATOR since this is the best formulation to use when wanting to eliminate odor from the air.
Odor Destroyer: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/odor-destroyer
Quick Action: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/quick-action
Aerosol 2000: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-2000
Odor Eliminator: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/aerosol/odor-elminator-6-oz-refill
CONTACT US ^
Give us a call if you need further help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM. On Saturday, 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time).
Email questions here: https://bugspray.com/about-us/contact-us
Order online and get a 5% discount! We ship fast with 99.9% of all orders shipping within 1 business day!!
Learn more about BUGSPRAY.COM and why it’s never been easier or safer to do your own pest control.
Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around to answer your questions and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
Harvey Salem says
I had a groundhog living under my 10’x10′ shed which I believe has just died because of the strong odor coming from under the shed. I can look under the shed with a flashlight but all I see are dead leaves. The animal may have died in his burrough or under some leaves. It is hard to try clearing under the shed because one side only has about an inch opening between it and the asphalt and the other side has less than a foot. This also makes it hard to spray anything under there that can reach all surface areas since I do not know exactly where he is. What do you suggest? The foam wand you sell does not seem long enough to reach all the areas and the simple spray bottle will never do it. Should I just let him decay under there and then, eventually the odor might disappear. I understand that groundhogs are notorious for taking over abandoned hutches. Maybe if I make it too clean and livable again, others might come. What do you think?
Many thanks,Harvey
Tech Support says
To solve the odor issue, you’ll need to cover as much of the area with NNZ. This “odor eating” product works well at removing all kinds of living odors that come from things like dead bodies, fecal matter and other organic sources.
NNz: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
Typically NNZ is used by spraying it with a standard sprayer like this:
Eliminator: https://bugspray.com/equipment/sprayers/eliminator-gallon-sprayer
But since it sounds like you won’t be able to direct the spray where it will matter the most, the Foaming Tool might be the next best option.
Foaming Tool: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foamers/solo-2-gal-foamer
Now I understand you won’t be able to reach all areas with the Foamer from one access point you see. But that’s not how you’d need to use it.
In this case, all you need to do is drill small holes through the floor of the shed and through these holes inject the foam. Assuming the floor is wood, it would be easy to do and no doubt enable you to foam where it matters. I would drill a pattern of holes, spaced out in a “checkerboard” pattern, with the holes about 2 feet apart from one another. Once the entire shed floor has the holes in place, I’d pump the space underneath with foam that’s comprised of the NNZ, Foaming Agent and water. This will certainly solve the problem and in most cases, one treatment will neutralize the odor.
Foaming Agent: https://bugspray.com/catalog/insecticide/liquid/foaming-agent
Something else to consider is the importance of having access to the space under the floor. There are just so many potential problems that can arise in such areas and being able to look and inspect under there would be smart for future problems. For this reason we always recommend making some kind of “port” or hatch through the floor if possible. Even if the space is just a few inches off the ground, having an access point could prove helpful should anything bad happen. And since groundhogs (other animals too) like to “reuse” old abandoned burrows, there is a good chance another one will be coming around at some point down the road. For this reason it would be smart to have such an access point.
So no doubt cutting one or more hatchways through the floor would be another way to gain access. These hatches should be through the floor of the shed with the focus being on the side where you suspect the animal is located. In the past I’ve handled problems like this (in small sheds) and in at least one case we had to make 3 hatches, each about 1 foot square, which we made “removable” so that in the future, the hatches could be taken up when needed. We did this for a shed which was right at 10′ by 10′ too and though most times we only need one or two entry ways, this one had a floor which was very close to the ground so we ended up making 3 hatches before we finally found the dead animal. But once we had access, removing the animal was easy and treating with NNZ even easier.
Yvaine says
My brother passed away and his body was not found for 2-3 weeks. The smell is really bad but I wanted to salvage some items and pictures from inside the house. The smell is now a part of everything that was inside. Is there something I can use to completely get rid of the smell from these items? We are not looking to clean the house; just the items we’re taking out.
Tech Support says
If you review the article above, you’ll see the NNZ or the N7C is the way to go. These are true odor neutralizers and when misted or fogged out into rooms which have this type of odor problem, you can remove most any bad smell from individual items like you’re trying to do.
Now typically spraying either product onto specific areas where the odor was most present will remove the smell with just one application. That’s how good these two products work. But in situations where you’re not treating the target area directly with a liquid spray, expect to do 2-3 light mist treatments to obtain the desired end result of no odor.
NNz: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
N7C: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/n-7c-64-oz
The misting machine you’ll need to use for this type of treatment will be one like this:
BG 2300: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/bg-my-t-lite-2300-120-v
FM6309: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v
Now you can also remove the items you want to salvage and place them in a secluded area where you can mist them independently. No doubt this will save on the amount of product needed. But we’ve learned the best approach is to first treat them while they’re still in the original home. Next you can relocate them and expect too mist at least one more time to get decent results. And in some cases, a third application may be needed to. Since both NNZ and N7C are water based, they’re gentle enough to use on most anything too making them safe enough to use on a wide range of inanimate objects.
Edward says
In October of 2012, we had a tenant pass way in one of the units. A local bio-management company supposedly cleaned the bath area where the body was found. The smell of the re-agent was noticeable after the treatment. However, now we’re experiencing nausea and a return of the original smell. What should we do? The exhaust fan was on when the person died until the body was discovered. Should we be concerned about any surviving bio-aerosols? Thanks.
Tech Support says
If you review our article above, you’ll learn that odors generated from dead carcasses will many times migrate to the substrate around the main area. In other words, the odor will permeate and then live on surrounding walls, floors and ceiling. And though service companies that specialize in cleaning up such messes do a good job of killing the bacteria that will be present, few of these companies use true odor eating agents which are needed to remove the smell.
At this time I suggest you get some of the NNZ (more details on this material is above in the article). This product works on odors because it neutralizes them. It’s not a masking agent nor is it designed to clean up the bacteria and germs associated with a dead body. But it does target and eliminate foul odors like nothing else on the market. I would wipe down the walls, ceiling, floors and even the pour some down the tub and sink drain to insure any odor molecules are neutralized.
I’d then consider treating the rest of the unit if the smell is present in surroundings room. Over time odors can migrate to other rooms so if this person was left for a long time without being found, an extensive treatment might be needed.
NNz: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
Now the NNZ can be applied with a standard Pump Sprayer or even a rag or mop.
Eliminator: https://bugspray.com/equipment/sprayers/eliminator-gallon-sprayer
But the easiest way to apply it is to use a misting machine. This method will get complete coverage quickly and take very little time. And you can even rent a unit from us if you prefer not to buy one.
BG 2300: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/bg-my-t-lite-2300-120-v
Good luck and be sure to call if you need further help!
Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
Crystal says
I recently moved into a house where the previous owners were not very clean and because of this, the house had a serious roach problem. Before we moved in, the house was exterminated and we thoroughly cleaned (several cabinets had roach droppings that had been left for an extended period of time). After deep cleaning all of the kitchen cabinets and everything in the kitchen with a bleach product, we are still dealing with a weird smell in the kitchen. It seems to get worse at times, and better at other times. It seems that some of the smell is originating from a few of the cabinets – other times it’s coming from behind the refrigerator (we also took the refrigerator and all of the other appliances out and thoroughly cleaned behind them and inside of them). We have deep cleaned every surface inside and out in the kitchen but the smell is persistent. We believe the roaches are all dead – we haven’t seen any since we moved in a month ago and we keep the house extremely clean – but the smell just won’t go away. It’s a disgusting smell that is unlike anything I’ve ever smelled before. After doing some research online, it seems like the problem is due to the previous roaches. The problem is, none of these sources give any clear cut information on how to eliminate the smell once and for all. What would you guys recommend we do about this? I’m concerned that there could be dead roaches in the walls that are also contributing to this problem. How would you go about handling this? This smell is driving us insane! Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! :)
Tech Support says
No doubt roach infestations – especially infestations that linger for months – will leave pheromones, droppings and dead body parts which smell. And you’re right in thinking these odors could be originating from all the places you listed.
Now if you review our article above, you’ll learn that cleaning compounds (like bleach) do nothing for animal or insect odor. So once the cleaning compound dries and evaporates, the odor will return. In some cases it will come and go; in other cases it will remain persistent all the time. So if you want to neutralize it for good, you’ll need to apply the NNZ we have listed which will definitely take care of the problem.
NNZ will attack and degrade all odors making them “senseless” to people once the molecules of the odor are dispersed and broken apart. This can best be achieved by simply wiping everything down using the NNZ mixed with water.
You could also choose to mist it out in every room using one of our misting machines. No doubt misting it would insure uniform coverage. And it will make the job very easy to do time wise. But you could opt to wipe the solution over all the walls, countertops, inside cabinets, etc. with a rag and/or sponges.
Lastly, if the odor is still active a week after you treat, focus on the areas where you still smell it and treat again. Next, give it another week to see if its gone. In our experience, most every problem can be resolved with one treatment but sometimes a followup in needed.
Now if you still detect it somewhere following a second treatment, it would mean there is most likely odor in the walls which would need a NNZ application as well.
To get the walls treated, you’ll need to use our Foaming Tool. It’s designed to deliver product into spaces like under cement slabs, in wall voids, behind cabinets where they hang on walls, etc. Basically the Foamer will allow you to deliver the NNZ through small holes. This way you won’t have to rip down wall covering, remove cabinets, etc.
Now if you end up needing to do some treating with the Foamer, start with small sections of the wall which were most likely infested. This would include the walls around your sinks, cabinets and appliances. In most cases, it won’t be the whole house but just a few key areas. Unfortunately for you it might be hard to tell exactly where but your nose will be a big help at identifying where to start and over time, you should get to the root of the matter and knock out the source for good.
Here are links to the recommended products:
NNz: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
BG 2300: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/bg-my-t-lite-2300-120-v
Foaming Tool: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foamers/solo-2-gal-foamer
Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM Mon-Thur; 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.
Jonathan
Customer Care
http://www.bugspray.com
phillip mccarthy says
I had a hoarder in one of my rental units for several years. She allowed 4 feral cats to use the entire house as a cat box, with mounds of excrement in cabinets corners etc… She smoked inside and left rotting food around as well. I have gutted the house except baseboards walls and concrete slab… what product and application would fight a mixture of these smells?
Tech Support says
Phillip,
We have helped many people with this kind of problem. As crazy as it sounds, the scenario you’ve described happens a lot more than one might expect. In some cases its actually worse; imagine a corpse involved adding to the smell. Well, it happens. But regardless of how bad the odor might be, you can neutralize it using the following method.
First and foremost, the structure must be prepared. Typically this will involve removing all floor coverings, tearing down walls and essentially gutting the building down to structural members. Now it sounds like you’ve already done this and if thats the case, you’re pretty much ready to treat.
Second, you’ll want to “mist” the structure using anyone of the three following misting machines:
Fogmaster Mini Fogger: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-5330-120-volt
FM6309: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v
FM 6208: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6208-trijet-120-v
Misting is the way to go compared to spraying a liquid since the mist will both cover everything faster, do a more thorough job of the treatment and use the material more efficiently compared to liquid spraying. In fact liquid spraying will many times end up taking more time, wasting the material and in the long run, costing more.
As for which of the three machines to use; the 5330 is our Mini Fogger and though it will take a lot of refills to get the job done, its powerful enough to do the job. The problem is it only has a 32 oz holding tank and since you’ll be needing to apply several gallons of mixed spray, using the 5330 will involve a lot more time compared to the other machines I listed.
So if you’re wanting to save time and energy, go with either the FM6309 or the FM6208. These machines have a gallon size holding tank and they pump product a lot faster compared to the mini fogger. Basically the FM5330 will pump product at a rate of 3 oz per minute but the FM6208 will be 3 times faster pumping product at the rate of 9 oz per minute. And the FM6309 is even faster reaching a rate of 12+ oz per minute. This time savings can add up depending on how the square footage involved.
The other advantage of the FM6208 and FM6309 is that they can pump product 25-50 feet out whereas the FM5330 can only propel the mist 10-12 feet max. This means you’ll need to do more walking and moving around using the FM5330 and risk missing areas the other machines will no doubt get.
As for what to apply; either NNz or N7c will do the job. Personally I would use the NNZ since its completely odorless and therefore able to provide immediate feedback regarding the treatment. N7c has a slight odor which dissipates but is really not needed when treating problems like the one you need to handle.
As for how much NNz to use; this will depend on the square footage of the home. In general you’ll want to use 1 gallon of mixed material for every 800 sq/ft of surface area. And since the NNz is mixed at the rate of 8 oz per gallon of water, each jug can treat up to 6,400 sq/ft.
So how much will be needed to treat your home? I can’t say since I don’t know the size of the structure nor the extent of the problem. But for the average 1500-2000 sq/ft home which has been gutted and treated for similar odor problems, we find it typically takes 3-4 gallons of mixed material per treatment and that 2-4 treatments are usually needed spaced 1 day apart.
For example, if you determine you’ll need to use 4 gallons of mixed material, you’ll apply the first mixed gallon to 25% of the home. Next, you’ll repeat the process 3 more times to get all interior surfaces treated.
And once complete, you’ll let the treatment stand overnight. The next day you’ll enter and “smell” the results. No doubt the odor will be reduced but in most cases, a second application will be needed. This can be done right away.
Now by the 3rd day, most of the odor should be gone as long as you’re using enough of the NNz per treatment. Typically we find there will be a “pocket” or two of bad odor remaining on the third day which can be addressed by spot misting. And with any luck, complete odor control may be achieved by the 4th day.
But before you proceed with any kind of repair work its best to wait a week to insure there is no lingering odor molecules since treating open and accessible areas is the only way to control the odor properly.
NNz: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/nnz-64-oz
N7C: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/n-7c-64-oz
Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.
Jonathan
Customer Care
https://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290
PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!
sheila hanson says
Last year we used a tractor on our small farm to remove old hay and manure, since then the ground stinks terrible every time it gets wet from rain, being on a farm I know manure smell and this is not manure, it ‘almost’ smells like dead animal but not quite although just as pungent – it never gets better with all the rain we have had, I would think if it was something topical it would have washed away by now, but it just stays – to the point of being almost unbearable to be outside. I have livestock animals in these areas and have had these animals for over 20 years – this smell is new to me – I need to determine what the smell is, hard to say exactly where it is coming from – and how to remove it. I do not mind so much manure smell, or hay smell but this is just terrible – almost a sour dead animal smell. Please help – this needs to be dealt with outside and safe for the animals in case they get near or on it.
Tech Support says
Sheila,
Unfortunately I don’t believe we can offer much help trying to identify the source of the odor. Typically it has to do with some kind of “fermentation” in the soil, wood or substrate. We commonly see this happen on farms and it has to do with all the “fluids” common to the area. In some cases it has to do with a single animal; other cases its a breed (such as a horse or cow). Worse case is some kind of disease.
The good news is treating the smell with N-100 will neutralize the odor. You would expect to see instant results and as you cover the area where the odor is active, the smell will go away. Typically one will have to make several treatments to different areas as you narrow down the footprint of the smell. But within a few days it should be gone and then if you treat when it comes back, you’ll be able to keep it eliminated.
N-100 mixes at the rate of 8 oz per gallon of water and we recommend applying the mixed solution to 500 sq/ft of area (assuming its dirt you’re treating). Varying rates will apply if you’re treating concrete, wood, inside vs outside, etc.
N-100: https://bugspray.com/sanitizer/liquid/n-100-64-oz
N-100 won’t pose any kind of hazard to people or animals and can be used anywhere using any standard pump sprayer or if the area is large, a mist blower like one of these:
Solo 454 Sprayer: https://bugspray.com/equipment/sprayers/solo-1-gallon-sprayer
FM6309: https://bugspray.com/equipment/foggers/fogmaster-6309-120-v
Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur; 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.
Technical Support
Customer Care
https://bugspray.com
1-800-877-7290